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wagoneer 44 into a xj

thanks for the info...when you welded the truss did you use .030 mig? and as for the LCA mount on the drivers side besides pre/post heat of the cast did you use a nickel wire?
 
Re: Re: wagoneer 44 into a xj

thanks for the info...when you welded the truss did you use .030 mig? and as for the LCA mount on the drivers side besides pre/post heat of the cast did you use a nickel wire?

No truss, but I did use 030 wire for everything. And no, no nickel wire.
 
been a lil while sorry about that guys...just welded up my front frame stiffeners tonight. Since my last post I've been gathering some parts decided to go with a 5x5.5 ford out hubs with small bearing chevy spindles instead of the 6 lug. I'll be posting pictures soon. waiting for my next pay check and I'll be getting a few other things....

anyone do a DIY JCR bumper? How much of a PIA was bending it up? Just curious.
 
anyone have a e-locker? Would it be a bad idea if I use the vent hole instead of drilling a another hole in the pumpkin to run the 2 wires? Just a shot in the dark.
 
Priming the stiffeners.

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Passenger side welded on and sealed up
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Drivers side getting put into place...everything lined up nicely.
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hey guys having a problem finding the torque spec for the outer spindle nut for my ford small bearing spindles...a lot of different info out their...any of you guys know off hand. Right now i read 60 ft lbs on the inner nut then torque the outer nut to 150 ft lbs
 
I don't believe spindles take that kind of torque... you are going to roach the bearings in a hurry. Most spindles I have seen (no specific d44 spindle knowledge, sorry) take only a few tens of foot pounds on the inner nut before torquing the outer, basically just enough to take up the slack in the bearings.

edit: I am seeing "torque to 50 foot pounds and then back off 1/4 turn" on one site. Probably to make sure the bearings are properly seated, then back off to a more reasonable value to let them actually spin.

here's more info http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/newb...7-ford-d44-front-spindle-nut-torqe-specs.html

I'll check my 91 FSM for the 44 setup section shortly.
 
The 'rule of thumb' I go by is tighten the inner nut to 150-200 ft/lbs while turning the hub, back off a half turn(don't turn it while it's loose), tighten to 50 ft/lbs, then back off a quarter turn. If the little locking ring doesn't line up exactly always go LOOSER with the nut a little bit to line it up. If you overtighten them the bearings with cook on the highway. Then you tighten the outer nut to 150-175 ft/lbs. That's basically what my Haynes manual says, and what I've always done at work as well.
 
alright. Here's what the factory service manual says... 91 FSM, FSJ section.

tighten the inner locknut with 50 ft-lbs torque; then back-off the locknut 1/6 of a turn. Rotate the wheel while tightening the lock-nut to "seat" the bearings evenly. They then go into detail and say that 1/6 of a turn is 45 to 65 degrees, so I'm not really sure what kind of math they're using. 45 degrees is more of a sick hillclimb or 1/8 of a turn, not 1/6 of a turn.

Install the washer so the inner tab is aligned with the spindle keyway. Also, ensure that the peg, on the inner locknut engages in the nearest hole in the washer.

Install and tighten the outer locknut with a minimum of 50 ft-lbs torque. (Note it doesn't give a max torque, so anything that doesn't strip out the spindle nut or make you hate yourself next time you have it apart is fair game.)

Basically, I think every method posted so far will work, as long as the bearing is seated properly and the bearing spins freely once you've backed it off a bit properly.
 
You have to tighten them more than 50 ft/lbs initially to properly 'seat' the bearings, the 50 ft/lbs then 1/8 to1/4 turn back is to set the preload. Also, he is running Ford outers, not FSJ, though it shouldn't make a huge difference. Whenever I would set them in my F150 I followed to procedure I posted above, same as I do now in the ZJ, and I've never had a problem.
 
thanks for the info guys I really do appreciate it! Even with the headway I'm making the rims I ordered 2 are back ordered from U.S. wheel until the 19th of july so even though I'll finish the work by this weekend I'm still dead in the water since I only have 3 rims
 
Update truss is all welded on so are the LCA mounts. Caster is set at 7* Going to gear it tonight.

side question: do any of you know if a 5spd xj front driveshaft will work. The one I currently have is to long. Or do any driveshafts off of any other vehicle that might work. last part i needa get. Unless getting a Tom Woods is my only option
 
Try a late (96 or so and later) V8 ZJ front, they are 0.6" longer or shorter than a 5 speed XJ front, I forget. I am running one in my 4.0/AX15/d30 MJ. If it's still too long, worst case they are a hell of a lot more common in the yards than 5 speed XJ/MJ front shafts. IIRC the spline is larger in diameter as well.

Make sure you get a ujoint style one not the cup and socket style one some ZJs came with.
 
thanks for the tip Kastein, I'll try and locate a drive shaft at one of the local yards.

The axle is under the jeep and caster is set at 7 degrees everything went together nicely. However the passenger side coil spring has a slight bow tow it. The driver side is fine. TnT stated that do to the way the truss's are put together the truss wont be perfectly straight. Will this slight bow in my coil spring cause any issues?

Uploading pic's shortly
 
Brought it outside for better inspection and to take pictures. Welded up very nicely. No fitment issues

Set to 5 degree's caster and set the coil buckets to 0 degrees passenger side was about 3 degree's forward
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all in all very nice...put on the mini skids as well to the LCA mounts...only complaint about this setup is the single shear shock mounts...going to figure out a way to beef them up a little...other than that very happy
 
Looks beefy, my front shaft is the factory Xj auto shaft, shortened about an inch. Its easy to shorten them. Cut it in the middle and remove the length you need shortened, Need a piece of 1.75" od tube to sleeve the inside to keep it straight, slide it all together (need mallet to slide it together) and weld it up.
 
my springs are all bowed and stuff. it shouldent be an issue unless its crazy bowed and the bump tower want to catch coils. even then you should be pretty ok.
 
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