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Valve cover doesn't fit

Here's my set-up..........
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I just ground the factory steel one. I had to file off about 3/16" to get clearance. Should work fine now

It will be interesting to see if that works, my concern would be leakage from the weakening of the cover. Please give us a update later!
 
I put on a 93-95 ZJ VC on a 4.0L stroker I have most of the way together. I cleared the APR head bolts. I do have Harland Sharp Roler rocker on it. Cylinders 5 & 6 do not have the push rods. I did turn the engine a few times. I didn't notice any 'bumps' from the VC. I did get the head for my mini-stroker CCed to 59 on the Combustion chambers. Should get them into the shop for valve guides and redo the valve seats. Might take awhile till I gat get it together and running. Hopefully, with in a month. Farm machinery starting to take up road space. So, the Engine shops can get busy.
 
It cleared fine and no leaks. Other issues with the rebuild but the valve cover turned out fine

Thanks for the update. Mine has been slow. The engine would not turn, and I had it in place. I though I might have jammed the torque converter. I pulled the engine and I could somewhat turn it by the flexplate bolts. I didn't have the head or lifter in there. I oiled the cylinder walls and that helped. Then I primed the engine. Turned OK. I installed the lifters head etc. I primed the engine again. Two of the lifters weren't priming. I turned the engine about 1/8 turn and those lifter pumped up. I rotated the rest of the turn to TDC. Hopefully the next two days, I'll be able to fire it up. Going with Lucas break in oil. Also, looking at using the steel VC for the break in period.
I have an LS motor I am building. I'll be switching from Permatex Assembly lube to Driven. I also ordered some crankshaft turning sockets and a Harmonic balancer turning adapter. Looks like the Ford one will work.
 
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