Upgrading Charging Wires?

[Kingkong0192]

Is that electrical tape? and what is the insulation type?

That is indeed electrical tape. Have no shrink wrap. Put a good amount of electrical tape around them, and made sure it was tight.

It's;

4AWG VW-1 600 Volts Gasoline & Oil Resistant II (UL).

Put a multimeter on the Ohms setting and tested the resistance, and on all of the wires i've made so far it was .003.

 

[troy5118]

You can get some triple wall heat shrink off ebay. I wouldn't want to just use electrical tape on those wires.

 

[Kingkong0192]

You can get some triple wall heat shrink off ebay. I wouldn't want to just use electrical tape on those wires.

Went down to radio shack and bought some. Everything is now heat shrinked.

Does anyone know if the "Engine Block to Firewall" 10" cable is this one?

I only question it because this doesn't even look like wire.

The rest of the wires are installed except the fusebox to alternator. Need to wait to tomorrow to get that 28" piece.

 

[5-90]

If i upgrade it all to 4AWG, would i have to make my grounds larger than 4AWG? Or would i be fine as long as my mains weren't larger than my ground?

Do you know the stock AWG wire run in jeeps? I'm curious as to whether 4AWG is a replacement or an upgrade.

Yes. It's the 0630 head. I'm located in Connecticut.

I'll be sure to bookmark your website and forward it on to others.

OEM mains leads are 6AWG - anything larger (smaller number) is an upgrade.

You can make the grounds larger than the feeds, but it's not necessary. However, they damned well should not be made smaller!

I do have a cracked 0630 on hand already (cracked around a handful of valve seats,) and shipping from CT would likely be prohibitive - even on Greyhound or Amtrak (both from whatever is local to you to SJC,) so we can probably give that a miss. You may get a few bucks for the iron...

 

[5-90]

I'm going to upgrade everyone that 5-90 has listed on his website.

Started making them tonight. Only found green 4 AWG laying around. Going to search around for some more black tomorrow so it all matches. Here's what they look like so far.

What do you think?

Unless it's a RENIX, you're missing one - I don't see the foot-long lead from the firewall to the cylinder head, M8 ring on the chassis end and 7/16" on the engine end (however, this lead may have the "engine end" relocated to the rearmost fuel rail mounting screw without incident, improving access. May need to make the cable a bit longer, tho.)

And, if you replace the OEM alternator output lead, consider installing a fuse in that circuit a must. OEM circuit protection was either a segment of 10AWG fusible link wire spliced to the 6AWG mains lead (1987-1990, 1996-2001) or a pair of MAXI fuses in the PDC proper (MAXI50 or MAXI60, 1991-1995.)

Elimination of circuit protection devices is always a bad idea!

 

[5-90]

Went down to radio shack and bought some. Everything is now heat shrinked.

Does anyone know if the "Engine Block to Firewall" 10" cable is this one?

I only question it because this doesn't even look like wire.

The rest of the wires are installed except the fusebox to alternator. Need to wait to tomorrow to get that 28" piece.

Yes, that is exactly the cable. There are often sound reasons for running a "bare braid" for a ground, but I honestly don't think they apply underhood - and the underhood environment is horrible for unjacketed wire of any sort!

As I mentioned, you may reroute that cable, if you like.

 

[WTF_LOL]

edit...nvm

 

[Kingkong0192]

Unless it's a RENIX, you're missing one - I don't see the foot-long lead from the firewall to the cylinder head, M8 ring on the chassis end and 7/16" on the engine end (however, this lead may have the "engine end" relocated to the rearmost fuel rail mounting screw without incident, improving access. May need to make the cable a bit longer, tho.)

And, if you replace the OEM alternator output lead, consider installing a fuse in that circuit a must. OEM circuit protection was either a segment of 10AWG fusible link wire spliced to the 6AWG mains lead (1987-1990, 1996-2001) or a pair of MAXI fuses in the PDC proper (MAXI50 or MAXI60, 1991-1995.)

Elimination of circuit protection devices is always a bad idea!

My Jeep is a 1999.

I'm missing two wires. I already know that. I'm missing the 28" one that goes from the fuse box to the alternator, and the 10" ground that goes from the engine block to the firewall.

Need to still make those, just got around to making the ones pictured last night.

You're saying go from the fender to the rear most fuel rail bolt instead of going to the rear engine bolt? I'll be sure to do that, as i did have a bit of difficulty getting that off when i removed my head.

My OEM wire that went from the alternator to the fusebox is 6AWG and it's a black wire, and then it has what appears to be shrink tube on it, and green wire comes out the other side. I don't see any sort of fuse in that circuit. Are you saying i should buy a 4AWG fuse holder and put a fuse in that line? If so, would you happen to know how many amps that fuse would need to be?

Also, i was going to ask someone else, but it appears that you're the electrical guru on this forum.

I have the putco automotive headlight harness rated for 100 watts. I bought Hella 55/100w bulbs to run in the harness. Anyways, since i'm maxing out the harness (bad idea i know) i want to splice a fuseholder into the power leads. Any idea how many amp fuse i would need on a 100w wire?

Thanks again!

 

[5-90]

My Jeep is a 1999.

I'm missing two wires. I already know that. I'm missing the 28" one that goes from the fuse box to the alternator, and the 10" ground that goes from the engine block to the firewall.

Need to still make those, just got around to making the ones pictured last night.

You're saying go from the fender to the rear most fuel rail bolt instead of going to the rear engine bolt? I'll be sure to do that, as i did have a bit of difficulty getting that off when i removed my head.

My OEM wire that went from the alternator to the fusebox is 6AWG and it's a black wire, and then it has what appears to be shrink tube on it, and green wire comes out the other side. I don't see any sort of fuse in that circuit. Are you saying i should buy a 4AWG fuse holder and put a fuse in that line? If so, would you happen to know how many amps that fuse would need to be?

Also, i was going to ask someone else, but it appears that you're the electrical guru on this forum.

I have the putco automotive headlight harness rated for 100 watts. I bought Hella 55/100w bulbs to run in the harness. Anyways, since i'm maxing out the harness (bad idea i know) i want to splice a fuseholder into the power leads. Any idea how many amp fuse i would need on a 100w wire?

Thanks again!

The green wire is the fuse. It's made of a special low-melt alloy (similar to Wood's Metal, I think, as used in fire sprinkler heads) and uses a Hypalon insulation (instead of PVC, Vinyl, PTFE, rubber, ...) which chars & blisters when it gets hot.

When the fusible link blows, it becomes visually apparent (the smooth green wire becomes bubbled, blistered, and black) and by feel (you can manipulate the wire, and it will feel like there's nothing in there. There isn't - the wire melted.)

It's just another version of a fuse, just like how there are so many variations on a fuse cartridge (AGO, AGC, ATO/ATC, MINI, MEGA, MAXI, ANL, ANN, ...) However, all versions serve the same purpose - to break the circuit when too much current flows through it. Kinda like how CA-1, US-101, and I-5 will all get you to LA - just different routes to the same destination.

I don't know if you can get an inline fuse holder for wire that large (I've honestly never looked,) my usual solution is to hard-mount a fuse block on the fender liner, then run the alternator output cable to it. Run the other side to either the PDC stud or the battery positive post - electrically speaking, they're the same thing. Preferred fuse formats would be ANL/ANN or MEGA - both are available in ratings useful for this purpose, and both are rugged (the AGU style should also be available up to the rating you need, but it's a glass tube - I don't like using those underhood.)

 

[Kingkong0192]

The green wire is the fuse. It's made of a special low-melt alloy (similar to Wood's Metal, I think, as used in fire sprinkler heads) and uses a Hypalon insulation (instead of PVC, Vinyl, PTFE, rubber, ...) which chars & blisters when it gets hot.

When the fusible link blows, it becomes visually apparent (the smooth green wire becomes bubbled, blistered, and black) and by feel (you can manipulate the wire, and it will feel like there's nothing in there. There isn't - the wire melted.)

It's just another version of a fuse, just like how there are so many variations on a fuse cartridge (AGO, AGC, ATO/ATC, MINI, MEGA, MAXI, ANL, ANN, ...) However, all versions serve the same purpose - to break the circuit when too much current flows through it. Kinda like how CA-1, US-101, and I-5 will all get you to LA - just different routes to the same destination.

I don't know if you can get an inline fuse holder for wire that large (I've honestly never looked,) my usual solution is to hard-mount a fuse block on the fender liner, then run the alternator output cable to it. Run the other side to either the PDC stud or the battery positive post - electrically speaking, they're the same thing. Preferred fuse formats would be ANL/ANN or MEGA - both are available in ratings useful for this purpose, and both are rugged (the AGU style should also be available up to the rating you need, but it's a glass tube - I don't like using those underhood.)

My god do i wish i had the knowledge in my head that just spews from your fingers. I'm jealous. Good thing you're willing to share.

I really do appreciate the elaboration and explanations on how things work. Makes it easier for me to grasp and understand how it's actually working.

What do you think about buying this (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Corea...362707567&sr=8-2&keywords=4+gauge+inline+fuse) and splicing that between the wire from the alternator to the PDC Stud?

Any clue on how many amp of a fuse i should run in that fuseholder?

 

[x91evo]

Yes, that is exactly the cable. There are often sound reasons for running a "bare braid" for a ground, but I honestly don't think they apply underhood - and the underhood environment is horrible for unjacketed wire of any sort!

As I mentioned, you may reroute that cable, if you like.

Do you NEED this ground strap on the head?

I grounded my motor to my battery and chassis at the location on the left bottom of the block.

This one has been dissconnected for a while now,
But recently I have been having a no spark situation?

 

[5-90]

My god do i wish i had the knowledge in my head that just spews from your fingers. I'm jealous. Good thing you're willing to share.

I really do appreciate the elaboration and explanations on how things work. Makes it easier for me to grasp and understand how it's actually working.

What do you think about buying this (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Corea...362707567&sr=8-2&keywords=4+gauge+inline+fuse) and splicing that between the wire from the alternator to the PDC Stud?

Any clue on how many amp of a fuse i should run in that fuseholder?

Your 1999 will likely have a 90A alternator, I think a 120A was optional for your year (the 117A became standard 2000-2001.) If you're sure you don't have the 120A unit, a 100A fuse will work. If you're not sure, you can go ahead and go with a 125A, 130A, or 150A (whichever you fine,) and you'll be alright.

Scosche gear isn't bad - been using it for years. But, that uses the AGU fuse I mentioned - the big glass tube - that I don't like using underhood in rugged applications. (Remember those old glass tube fuses that used to be used on cars? Those were usually AGC fuses. AGU is the same thing, but bigger.)

Look for a MEGA or ANL fuse block, you'll be better off. They're more rugged...

 

[Kingkong0192]

Your 1999 will likely have a 90A alternator, I think a 120A was optional for your year (the 117A became standard 2000-2001.) If you're sure you don't have the 120A unit, a 100A fuse will work. If you're not sure, you can go ahead and go with a 125A, 130A, or 150A (whichever you fine,) and you'll be alright.

Scosche gear isn't bad - been using it for years. But, that uses the AGU fuse I mentioned - the big glass tube - that I don't like using underhood in rugged applications. (Remember those old glass tube fuses that used to be used on cars? Those were usually AGC fuses. AGU is the same thing, but bigger.)

Look for a MEGA or ANL fuse block, you'll be better off. They're more rugged...

Well got my ANL fuse block in today and got the rest of the wires hooked up. All of them are now brand new 4AWG wires. Thanks for the information on your site 5-90.

I just have one more question about this topic. Why is the "B+ to PDC" wire so long? I could cut about 6-8" off of it and it would still be fine.

Is there a reason for this?

Picture Related.

 

[5-90]

Do you NEED this ground strap on the head?

I grounded my motor to my battery and chassis at the location on the left bottom of the block.

This one has been dissconnected for a while now,
But recently I have been having a no spark situation?

Do you need it? Probably not, on 1991-up.

But, it closes the ground loop between engine & chassis, so it should be retained/replaced.

 

[5-90]

Well got my ANL fuse block in today and got the rest of the wires hooked up. All of them are now brand new 4AWG wires. Thanks for the information on your site 5-90.

I just have one more question about this topic. Why is the "B+ to PDC" wire so long? I could cut about 6-8" off of it and it would still be fine.

Is there a reason for this?

I used information provided by customers - and I haven't had anyone complain so far. There were some variations before, but I went and condensed the individual model years into brackets (RENIX, OBD-I, 1996, OBD-II,) and there may be some variation - although I'd be surprised.

So, that's news to me...

 

[Kingkong0192]

I used information provided by customers - and I haven't had anyone complain so far. There were some variations before, but I went and condensed the individual model years into brackets (RENIX, OBD-I, 1996, OBD-II,) and there may be some variation - although I'd be surprised.

So, that's news to me...

Oh, i'm not complaining. I was just wondering if there was a reason it was so long. I almost felt like putting it on the B+ was wrong because of all the extra slack in the wire.

I'll probably cut it down like 6" and re-attach it because that wire isn't as flexible as the welding cable is.

Either way i'm thrilled with having all of these wires upgraded. That fusebox worked perfect as well. I bolted it to the fenderwell right next to the fender ground and threw a 150 amp fuse in it.

Thanks for all your assistance.