rooneypower
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodinville, WA
will do
uhhh......WTF....pics
- Thread starter rooneypower
- Start date
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
If you go the rubber line route and don't flare, double clamp each end of the hose.
I did that and no leaks.....on tranny cooler lines, on my XJ.
I did that and no leaks.....on tranny cooler lines, on my XJ.
vwkaferman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mesa, AZ
Glad this was posted. Mine leaks ever so slightly at the fitting on the Radiator/Trans cooler connector. Instead of taking it in/replacing feet of hard lines, I'm gonna get some hose rated for oil and do it that way. AWESOME!
James
James
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
They commonly leak where the factory crimp fittings are.
For the stock line there is a rubber hose crimped to the metal line right below the crank pully so the cooler line can make the 90 degree turn to the radiator.
That's the part I replaced on mine. One of the crimp fittings was leaking, was getting worse...
For the stock line there is a rubber hose crimped to the metal line right below the crank pully so the cooler line can make the 90 degree turn to the radiator.
That's the part I replaced on mine. One of the crimp fittings was leaking, was getting worse...
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Blaine B. said:
I have also found it helpful to smear some RTV Black over the outside of the metal tube before you slip the rubber line over it, then double-clamp. Overlap by a minimum of one inch, leave about a quarter-inch of hose between the clamp and the bitter end, and leave about a quarter-inch (or more, if possible) between clamps. All of this will help to ensure a good seal.
And use a tubing cutter, not a hacksaw! A cutoff wheel in a Dremel is iffy - deburring is mandatory with abrasive cutting on tubing! A tubing cutter (the one with the rollers backing up where the tube contacts a cutting wheel) is ideal, as it will give you a clean edge that won't abrade through the hose. You can get small tubing cutters fairly cheaply at hardware stores.
Don't push the cutter - the slower you go, the better the cut. I usually tighten the handle to contact + 1/4-turn. Go around the tube once or twice, tighten another 1/4-turn, and repeat. Continue until the tube separates. A nice, clean cut.
Ba-Riedo
has frame envy
- Location
- redmond/bellingham, wa
Umm keil I dont wanna sound like an ass, no wait I do. Remember this summer when we did my tranny cooler? Its those same lines, so if your too lazy to do it by urself then wait till this weekend if you fix my low range (I dont think you can) ill let you put it in my garage and work on it. But first go to shucks and buy some power steering hose and 4 mini hose clamps, 4 for you 4 for me bc I need some more. Mclendons has some if you need em.
:moon:
-Alex
:moon:
-Alex
Ba-Riedo
has frame envy
- Location
- redmond/bellingham, wa
5-90 said:
I do believe a oxy-aceteline torch will give you that nice clean deburred cut your talking about...
:smoker:
-Alex
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
alexer03 said:
Nope - OA cuts usually have slag to chip or grind off. So do plasma cuts. The thicker the material, the more slag you get (even when you cut with pure oxygen):nono:
Besides, a small tubing cutter is cheaper, and you'll probably use it elsewhere (got a fridge with an icemaker? Do any light plumbing work?)
Ba-Riedo
has frame envy
- Location
- redmond/bellingham, wa
5-90 said:
Ha thanks for taking me seriously? I think, I was joking since I know the guy and he might try that... :doh: Sorry for the confusion, ill be more blatant next time.
-Alex
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
alexer03 said:
Nah - note the little yellow guy wagging his finger at you. That indicates a certain sarcasm on my part, answering a certain sarcasm on your part (I don't usually use those little guys - saving them more for emphasis.)
Besides, you'd have to pull the tubing all the way out to cut with a flame safely anyhow - or you'll end up making "access ports" in your frame elements. :twak:
(And, it's for the benefit of anyone who's got too much torch and not enough smarts to use it properly - I've run across plenty. I've got a buddy who's a hobby blacksmith, and he knew a guy who literally screwed up a brand-new anvil using a rubber hammer!)
Jeepm@n
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern, WI
alexer03 said:
I'd seriously vote the guy for the Darwin award for doing that. I'd like to see how hot he'd get the line before poof the tranny fluid lights up. lol
monkeyevil
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Kalamazoo, MI
Like said before... the quick fix is to cut out the bends and use some power steering or trans cooler hose, and some clamps.
Taking a little more time would be to cut the kink out, flare each end, and add some new tube in with flare nuts.
The best way to fix it would be to run new lines entirely. Using either the stock parts, bending your own, or running good quality rubber line the whole way.
Taking a little more time would be to cut the kink out, flare each end, and add some new tube in with flare nuts.
The best way to fix it would be to run new lines entirely. Using either the stock parts, bending your own, or running good quality rubber line the whole way.
ColoradoRaptor
Headbanging Hillbilly
- Location
- Canon City, Crawlorado
monkeyevil said:
Ok, this thread has gone on long enough!!!!!
A bandaid will always be a bandaid for god sake! Do ya want to be out on the trail and blow your bandaid all over the place? Fix it right or take the heep to the dealer and pay them to do it!!:doh:
Ba-Riedo
has frame envy
- Location
- redmond/bellingham, wa
Nope not long enough yet. Nominations?
-Alex
-Alex
rooneypower
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Woodinville, WA
i get it...thanks for the help (Alex ur an idiot:looser
and yet you want me to pick up some hose for you??? oh i get it.. retard.:dunce:
and yet you want me to pick up some hose for you??? oh i get it.. retard.:dunce:
87baseomatic
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Jersey
Had that happen on my old 87 xj. Got pinched while the motor was being jacked up. I just cut the kinks out of the metal line and used cooler lines to couple the two pieces together. Top off the fluids after and it was fine for the next year I owned the jeep for.
- Location
- Richardson, TX
Had some new bushings put in on the front axel on my XJ. The guy that worked on my Jeep put the bolt on the right uper control arm in the wrong way, so the bolt took out my return cooler line just like that. It sucks. Got new lines in and fixed the bolt now.
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
The good thing about replacing the bent segment with rubber hose is that if the axle comes up far enough again, the rubber will flex and won't bend like the metal lines.
It's not a bandaid if you do it correctly. I guess we could call it a permanent cast since it won't just stop "sticking" and fall off like a bandaid will sometimes do?
It's not a bandaid if you do it correctly. I guess we could call it a permanent cast since it won't just stop "sticking" and fall off like a bandaid will sometimes do?
bjoehandley
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- WeGo, Chi-Town, Ill
ColoradoRaptor said:Ok, this thread has gone on long enough!!!!!
Why take it to a dealer, hte parts were less than $150 when Dad and I had to re-do CarMax's replacement trans cooler lines. I think the job took a couple of hours and a trip or two to the local Car Quest for the removal tool we used on the radiator end of the trans line (IIRC it's the same size as what Ford uses on their fuel line fittings) Idiot ran the line under the frame rail and when the UCA got too close to the rail it would pinch the lines:nono:
