• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Turbo questions

I will look into them, as far as mounting im doing what XJ R did and using the renix manifold. Simple and easy for what im doing. :laugh2:
I have the renix fuel rail, so using that can I just run the return line to the tank and put the wiring and injectors out of a 97+ in?
Dave your a great help! :peace: Same to You Boostwerks!
 
Last edited:
Downside to an FMU is you are going to have to run close to 100 psi to make the stock injectors flow enough. At that pressure the stock pump might not have enough flow to keep up.
 
PseudoSport said:
Downside to an FMU is you are going to have to run close to 100 psi to make the stock injectors flow enough. At that pressure the stock pump might not have enough flow to keep up.
Click to expand...

AGREED! The need for an upgraded pump shows up and it might still have to be modded for no bypassing so it can be dead headed. Bad for the pump but good for the booster. (that sounds like double sided pun).

As for the renix rail question: Look at my pics in my thread. I modded the bejesus out of my renix rail with -10 fittings at each end with late model injectors. Ugly, but works. I would say like the wife but, she does read what i type occasionally..

I must add that i am using the stock feed at the moment since i was unsure if this thing would even start so don't judge me too much...yet.:D

As for the info your welcome!
 
PseudoSport said:
Downside to an FMU is you are going to have to run close to 100 psi to make the stock injectors flow enough. At that pressure the stock pump might not have enough flow to keep up.
Click to expand...
I will be running some larger injectors to limit this issue Im thinking around 30 pound injectors to make it happy.
wookieintheforest said:
AGREED! The need for an upgraded pump shows up and it might still have to be modded for no bypassing so it can be dead headed. Bad for the pump but good for the booster. (that sounds like double sided pun).

As for the renix rail question: Look at my pics in my thread. I modded the bejesus out of my renix rail with -10 fittings at each end with late model injectors. Ugly, but works. I would say like the wife but, she does read what i type occasionally..

I must add that i am using the stock feed at the moment since i was unsure if this thing would even start so don't judge me too much...yet.:D

As for the info your welcome!
Click to expand...
Im reading your thread now,


So I guess this will become a turbo build thread now.

I have my engine and am awaiting the turbo now
:thumbup:
 
Same place as you did :roll: Its to big to mount low I think
 
Agreed. I did not find the room for a down low mounting without cutting up the manifold. I did look to see if i could get the sprintex base manifold but they would not sell it seperate. It could be mounted on the passenger side but, that seems hokey and a/c would have to be eliminated on my renix or retro fit a late model system.

Word of advice on the holset, get ALL the clamps pipes fittings and adapters for the turbo when you buy it. The exhaust clamp alone is 40 bucks and it is an oddball unit. If not be prepared to get frustrated finding fittings and what not.
 
wookieintheforest said:
Agreed. I did not find the room for a down low mounting without cutting up the manifold. I did look to see if i could get the sprintex base manifold but they would not sell it seperate. It could be mounted on the passenger side but, that seems hokey and a/c would have to be eliminated on my renix or retro fit a late model system.

Word of advice on the holset, get ALL the clamps pipes fittings and adapters for the turbo when you buy it. The exhaust clamp alone is 40 bucks and it is an oddball unit. If not be prepared to get frustrated finding fittings and what not.
Click to expand...
I didnt get it, I got the turbo free but im going to raid the diesel shop for it :D The rest is all easy, I believe :D
 
Starting to get interesting. But still gonna be a long time till I use it.
Its an HY not HX so it has a smaller housing
 
I will get them tomorrow and hey thats mint for me! Im trying to keep it simple for a DD and able to haul its self around easy.


Were will they be on the exhaust or the Comp side?
 
I'm going to bump this up a bit
I pulled the pan off my renix and it is happy so I'm going to fix up my manifold then start to plumb it all I was going to earlier but I have been busy.

I am rebuilding my turbo to it is a slightly higher mileage unit so I would rather rebuild it than blow it.

Now a few quick questions
1 Should I just weld the waste gate closed an go to an external waistgate?

2 how should I deal with the power steering lines? Wookieintheforrest how did you do it with out melting them?
 
A Sprintex S5-210 Supercharger.

I use an AEM F/IC8 to handle the fuel and ignition modifications. IMO the F/IC8 is one of, if not the, easiest controllers you can install. I operate the F/IC in percentage mode for the fuel trims. That way, it is a simple matter of reading the AFR on the gauge, do the simple math and apply the correction to the fuel table.

Simple, really. If I am reading an AFR of 13 at cruise and the cell in question has a value of -20% then the correction would have to be 0.88 of the value. DIVIDE the current value by the correction and you get -22.7%. Plug it into the cell and you are good to go. Repeat for the rest of the map. For an AFR gauge, I use an AEM part so as to not have any calibration issues between the sensor and the F/IC. Most anyone's sensor can be used as AEM provides the ability to alter the F/IC to match the gauge.

For tuning the ignition side, I use a Phormula knock sensor to detect the knock. Then the ignition is pulled back until it stops knocking. Being conservative, I pull it back an additional 0.5 degrees just to be sure. Why a knock sensor? The engine will still be detonating even when you can't hear the classic ball bearings rattling in a tin can sound.

All in all, it is not difficult to set up the fuel and ignition, it just take a bit of time. I had this one very close inside of 4 hours... The 95 YJ I did took even less time as we based his maps off of mine.

As an aside, I have found that due to my being at an elevation greater than 6,000', that I do not remove any timing for the first 1.5 pounds of boost. Makes sense really as my average atmospheric PSIa (a=absolute) is 12.5 PSIa whereas at sea level it is 14.7 PSIa. What I get for the first two pounds of boost is getting the Heep to sea level. Bummer, eh?

There are many other F/IC type devices out there. I went with AEM after taking the time to call them all and speak with the Technical Support staff. Way I figure it, the better the support, the better (generally speaking) the product. I have had not a single issue with the F/IC and can recommend it without any reservations. I had a question the TS guy could not answer so... He had me speak with one of the designers of the box. How many companies will let the consumer speak with the design staff? And all so that I would not have to wait for an answer. Plus the TS guy wanted to know as well...

I went with the F/IC8 instead of the less expensive F/IC6 for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I wanted to be able to correct my speedometer electronically so as to have it accurate instead of just close. And, secondly, the F/IC8 provides a feature that mimics the acceleration pump on carbs. Gives you the ability to shoot a controlled slug of fuel when the throttle is cracked open.

An important feature on a supercharged engine as the boost is instantaneous. Not so important on a turbocharged engine as the boost rolls in giving the PCM time to respond to the factory O2 sensor.

In any case, the "piggyback" controller you choose does not have to be perfectly tuned. It just needs to be very close. Let the PCM do it's job for the fuel trims.

I also have an OBDII reader for my laptop so I can see exactly what the PCM is doing.

In summary, I recommend the following:
1) ODBII software/hardware for your laptop.
2) An AFR gauge.
3) A F/IC of some sort.
3) A knock sensor system so as to be able to tune the ignition.
4) Bigger injectors. How Big? Depends on how much boost you are going to run.

There are several of each of the above in the market place. Do your due diligence and go with what looks good to you. Not for me to tell you...

I just realized that I have not documented the injectors I run. They are Venom [URL="http://www.venom-performance.com/"]http://www.venom-performance.com/ 40 pounders. Venom sells matched sets which is a nice detail. The price was reasonable also. Thanks be to Amazon...

Be advised that there are 2 part numbers for the F/IC6. One for us Chryco guys, the other for the rest of the world. Has to do with the value of the resistors that the PCM fires across. These resistors serve as the load for the PCM. The PCM uses the current draw to detect an injector misfire. Use the wrong value and you will get CELs.

Sorry for the book, but, he asked...
 
I ran my hard line around the front of the reservoir and made the the return nipple straight from the gear box so it would clear everything . I made a shorter return hose and so far no problems.
 
wookieintheforest said:
I ran my hard line around the front of the reservoir and made the the return nipple straight from the gear box so it would clear everything . I made a shorter return hose and so far no problems.
Click to expand...

O-Gauge Steamer said:
A Sprintex S5-210 Supercharger.

I use an AEM F/IC8 to handle the fuel and ignition modifications. IMO the F/IC8 is one of, if not the, easiest controllers you can install. I operate the F/IC in percentage mode for the fuel trims. That way, it is a simple matter of reading the AFR on the gauge, do the simple math and apply the correction to the fuel table.

Simple, really. If I am reading an AFR of 13 at cruise and the cell in question has a value of -20% then the correction would have to be 0.88 of the value. DIVIDE the current value by the correction and you get -22.7%. Plug it into the cell and you are good to go. Repeat for the rest of the map. For an AFR gauge, I use an AEM part so as to not have any calibration issues between the sensor and the F/IC. Most anyone's sensor can be used as AEM provides the ability to alter the F/IC to match the gauge.

For tuning the ignition side, I use a Phormula knock sensor to detect the knock. Then the ignition is pulled back until it stops knocking. Being conservative, I pull it back an additional 0.5 degrees just to be sure. Why a knock sensor? The engine will still be detonating even when you can't hear the classic ball bearings rattling in a tin can sound.

All in all, it is not difficult to set up the fuel and ignition, it just take a bit of time. I had this one very close inside of 4 hours... The 95 YJ I did took even less time as we based his maps off of mine.

As an aside, I have found that due to my being at an elevation greater than 6,000', that I do not remove any timing for the first 1.5 pounds of boost. Makes sense really as my average atmospheric PSIa (a=absolute) is 12.5 PSIa whereas at sea level it is 14.7 PSIa. What I get for the first two pounds of boost is getting the Heep to sea level. Bummer, eh?

There are many other F/IC type devices out there. I went with AEM after taking the time to call them all and speak with the Technical Support staff. Way I figure it, the better the support, the better (generally speaking) the product. I have had not a single issue with the F/IC and can recommend it without any reservations. I had a question the TS guy could not answer so... He had me speak with one of the designers of the box. How many companies will let the consumer speak with the design staff? And all so that I would not have to wait for an answer. Plus the TS guy wanted to know as well...

I went with the F/IC8 instead of the less expensive F/IC6 for a couple of reasons. Firstly, I wanted to be able to correct my speedometer electronically so as to have it accurate instead of just close. And, secondly, the F/IC8 provides a feature that mimics the acceleration pump on carbs. Gives you the ability to shoot a controlled slug of fuel when the throttle is cracked open.

An important feature on a supercharged engine as the boost is instantaneous. Not so important on a turbocharged engine as the boost rolls in giving the PCM time to respond to the factory O2 sensor.

In any case, the "piggyback" controller you choose does not have to be perfectly tuned. It just needs to be very close. Let the PCM do it's job for the fuel trims.

I also have an OBDII reader for my laptop so I can see exactly what the PCM is doing.

In summary, I recommend the following:
1) ODBII software/hardware for your laptop.
2) An AFR gauge.
3) A F/IC of some sort.
3) A knock sensor system so as to be able to tune the ignition.
4) Bigger injectors. How Big? Depends on how much boost you are going to run.

There are several of each of the above in the market place. Do your due diligence and go with what looks good to you. Not for me to tell you...

I just realized that I have not documented the injectors I run. They are Venom [URL]http://www.venom-performance.com/ 40 pounders. Venom sells matched sets which is a nice detail. The price was reasonable also. Thanks be to Amazon...

Be advised that there are 2 part numbers for the F/IC6. One for us Chryco guys, the other for the rest of the world. Has to do with the value of the resistors that the PCM fires across. These resistors serve as the load for the PCM. The PCM uses the current draw to detect an injector misfire. Use the wrong value and you will get CELs.

Sorry for the book, but, he asked...
Click to expand...
This is great,
I want to keep it simple, so would the F/IC6 be perfect for this?

And wookieintheforrest you rock thanks man! :roll:
 
Yes, a F/IC 6 will work just fine for the basic functions. Just be sure to get the correct part number as there are two of the suckers. One for Chryco products and the other for everything else ever made.

Figures...
 
How much will it run me and is it tunable by me?
 
Well, you have to tune the thing as it is not a PCM. Does not have any "learning" capabilities. So.... You will need a wideband O2 sensor installed in order to be able to read the AFR. I recommend that ODBII software be installed on your laptop as tuning the fuel is easier when you can see the Short Term and the Long Term Fuel Trims. I like to see 5% on the short term and 3% on the long term trims as the target tune values. This is where the factory PCM like to keep things.

Why are the trims an issue? If the system is working to fine tune the mixture (and it will...) past the window that it is comfortable for it to operate in, it will throw out mixture codes. Either a "too rich" or a "too lean" code even if the AFR gauge is reporting a solid 14.7 Air Fuel Ratio.

I use one of these for the wideband:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air-fuel-systems-15/digital-wideband-air-fuel-gauge-25/

And, here is a link to the AEM site for F/IC information:
http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-management-systems-9/fuel-ignition-controller-f-ic-12/

Pricing is variable depending on where you make the purchase. I obtained my stuff off of Amazon. I know, right? Who knew...

I just had an instance of controlled panic when my speedometer quit. The speedo quit and the CEL came on. My laptop reported a bad VSS code. As the signal from the VSS is being altered by my F/IC8 (in order to calibrate the speedo), the problem could have been either the VSS or the F/IC.

Connected the laptop to the F/IC and read the frequency data. Turned out that it was just a poor connection at the VSS. One good thing about this is that troubleshooting was easy. Between the PCM reports and the data from the F/IC, the problem was found and killed in about 10 minutes. It took longer to put the back axle up on jack stands than it did to resolve the issue.

Point being... As of two days ago, the best price on a F/IC8 was $600.00. A F/IC6 will be less. Online prices change on a near daily basis so it pays to shop around. Same thing applies to the new injectors. Do not be tempted to find injectors in a wrecking yard.

It ran me a bit over $1,000 for the F/IC, the Wideband and the Injectors. This was about two years ago.

Do a search, the F/IC6 has been fairly well documented here on NAXJA.

And, as a parting note, you do not have to use an AEM wideband. Use of one does, however, remove any need to calibrate the F/IC to the wideband. With all AEM products, they is as close to plug and play as you can get.

To say that I am a fan would be an understatement.

Perform your due diligence and you will be fine. Take your time and your system should run for years. I am close to two years with the supercharger installed and have not encountered any issues with the aftermarket parts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

X
Making the frame purdy
2 3
Replies
54
Views
2K
Xjin85
X
N
  • Locked
Lowering An XJ
Replies
0
Views
74
NAXJA_Archives
N
O
0331 Strikes Again...?
Replies
11
Views
398
Ol Blue
O
N
  • Locked
Basic Modification tips for the XJ 4.0 I6
Replies
0
Views
80
NAXJA_Archives
N
L
Manual to Auto transmission swap
Replies
9
Views
328
lvcanyoneer1
L
Back
Top