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truck dies when i put it in reverse or drive etc.

Ok, because you are loosing ignition and radio and etc., all SWITCHED circuits, while your headlights and cluster lights remain, all UN-SWITCHED circuits, then I would put my money on the ignition switch.

Not the key, but the ignition switch at the foot of the steering column. When you turn the key a remote rod attached to the lock cylinder acts upon the ignition switch, moving it so that the contacts can complete circuits in ON/START/ACC/OFF. Go there and check it out. They come loose and flop around, the contacts overheat and the connector needs to be replaced, etc.
 
Ok, because you are loosing ignition and radio and etc., all SWITCHED circuits, while your headlights and cluster lights remain, all UN-SWITCHED circuits, then I would put my money on the ignition switch.

Not the key, but the ignition switch at the foot of the steering column. When you turn the key a remote rod attached to the lock cylinder acts upon the ignition switch, moving it so that the contacts can complete circuits in ON/START/ACC/OFF. Go there and check it out. They come loose and flop around, the contacts overheat and the connector needs to be replaced, etc.
Sometimes i wonder if i should just get your phone number and stop logging on to naxja. :laugh:
 
Ok, because you are loosing ignition and radio and etc., all SWITCHED circuits, while your headlights and cluster lights remain, all UN-SWITCHED circuits, then I would put my money on the ignition switch.

Not the key, but the ignition switch at the foot of the steering column. When you turn the key a remote rod attached to the lock cylinder acts upon the ignition switch, moving it so that the contacts can complete circuits in ON/START/ACC/OFF. Go there and check it out. They come loose and flop around, the contacts overheat and the connector needs to be replaced, etc.
you are fukn awesome.

:bow

I am not worthy. :)
 
Ok, you two are starting to scare me! :eek:

Help, I've got stalkers! :doh:
 
...I would put my money on the ignition switch...

I thought ignition switch too

Things that have been replaced in the last few months:
Battery, starter, alt, blower motor resistor, ignition switch, fuel pump, blower motor.

But then I saw this and thought he's already replaced it.

I have a brand new ignition switch still in the box ill swap it out and let you know how it goes.

And now, maybe he didn't replace it?
 
I'll just "throw this out there"..

while i was wheeling a couple weeks back, my rig would randomly start cutting out and would die, after a couple times, i finally got annoyed and popped the hood, the Main coil wire was arcing off some other metel parts (dont remember what?) but that was my issue.
 
I'm leaning towards a Torque converter, i would check your TCU connections, the fuse in the TCU harness, and TPS adjustment. The neutral safety switch is kinda a pain to remove, its easiest to remove the adjusting bolt (very top) and then just loosen the but nut enough to fit a flathead in between, and then use the trans pan as leverage, this was the easiest way to get mine off.
jeep_ns_switch_468b.gif
 
The ground cable doesnt go to your frame, it goes from the side (left side on my 89) of your block, to your battery.
No, there is a ground at the back of the head to the firewall. normally on the intake side.
 
No, there is a ground at the back of the head to the firewall. normally on the intake side.

On the early XJs that is the ONE and ONLY unibody ground. A POS braided strap from the rear of the head, driver's side, to the firewall--replace it with a 4 ga or better cable.

Later XJs added an OEM unibody ground from the negative battery terminal the passenger's side fenderwell.
 
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