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trimming question

JJacobs

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fort Collins CO
It's been a couple years since I have done this, so just wondering-
I have a 4 door XJ and have cut the rear wheel pinch seam to the point where the inner and outer fender need to be welded back together. I have a ton of stuff to do to this Jeep in a very short time, so are lots of spot welds holding up or do I need to run a full bead down the whole seam? I'm doing a full cage w/ roof off so it *shouldn't* want to flex much, but I want to do it right.

Thanks-
Jon
 
doing a full weld is always better, i really can't say weather it will make a big difference in that situation
 
jimmy forbes said:
doing a full weld is always better, i really can't say weather it will make a big difference in that situation

Hey!!Wheres those pics you were going to send!
 
:scared: NOOooooooo!!!!!!!!!! If you run a continuous bead,two things will happen:
1) You will warp the crap out of the metal,I don't care HOW GOOD of a weldor you are! And FWIW--Warps can travel a LONG WAY if you aren't careful!!
2) You will overheat the metal,causing structural strength loss and you'll probably blow through the metal more than you actually weld.

ALWAYS tack weld sheet metal! Start on one side of the wheel well and tack it,then go to the other side of the same WW and tack it,go to the upper section,tack it,and just keep bouncing around with the tacks to avoid heating any area up to the point of warpage. Keep doing this until you've tacked it solid. If it's absolutely neccessary to do so,grind the welds down smooth and give 'em a good coat of paint. I know this sounds like a drag,and a lot of work,but like my body shop teacher always says..."...if it was easy,everybody'd do it!" :thumbup:
 
if you're doing a full cage with no roof...

why bother :confused:

the sheetmetal will no longer be structural, and I doubt you care about sealing out the elements
 
CheapXJ said:
if you're doing a full cage with no roof...

why bother :confused:

the sheetmetal will no longer be structural, and I doubt you care about sealing out the elements

I think it will be structural still, unless this was basically a tube chassis piercing the sheetmetal and removing all loads. Which it's not since I'm trying to get it done in time for BOTW.
 
BOTW? As in the one in just over 2 weeks? Cripes, jon, that's some serious cramming! Hope ya make it! How's the buggy doing?
 
Yep, that one. The buggy's not doing- I stuffed it in storage until I have parts bucks. So this xj will be using the buggy parts for a while. 401, TF727, Atlas, 60 front, 14 bolt rear, 40" TSL's.
Say Doug, I need to pick up an axle from you- taking the xj to LHC Sunday, maybe we could meet up?
 
Jon, so you're going to bring an XJ on the trip? :D

It will be nice to meet you and Tracy finally, even if he'll only be taking pictures. It's good to see that a couple of you CO boys are going to bring some real equipment to the party. I don't have you on the list, shoot something to me e-mail and I'll add you on.

I think with the cage, if it's well triangulated in the rear, a few spot welds on that sheet metal will be fine. The problem is that the cage will be rigid on top, but the frame will be weaker on the bottom. If you run some tube across the bottom of the down bars in the rear section, that will add strength to the frame and the sheet metal probably won't matter. Just another opinion..... :)

I have my own list of things to get done yet. One is to get parts so I can put my t-case back together. I can't believe that with a rig that's wheelable as is I have so many projects to complete before I'm ready to leave.

Two weeks............ :D :D
 
are you simply welding the sheet metal inner and outer panels back together or are you gonna use some flat plate between the two panels??
im about to do mine...just want to get an idea of what the best structural direction is.

thanks
 
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