Tranny issue?

xj-grin said:
if you can't feel the fluid with your finger, I would say at a minimum to add some real soon, and preferably to change the fluid. You will need a mopar-only friction modifier for the vari-lok limited slip (see the pattern of Chrysler stealing your money for special lubricants...?)
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I know the feeling... yesterday I went to the jeep store on Arapahoe for a track bar nut (the one w/the wing on it) 15 frickan bucks!!!! If I'd have had a welder Ida made my own!!!!:wow:
 
loren mcclellan said:
I know the feeling... yesterday I went to the jeep store on Arapahoe for a track bar nut (the one w/the wing on it) 15 frickan bucks!!!! If I'd have had a welder Ida made my own!!!!:wow:
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Damn. I have probably 10 of those track bar nuts in my box-'o-jeep fasteners......

Heh heh...... I've damn near got about 10 of damn near everything..... :looney:

:D
 
About to pick up the trans speed sensors here soon and some more D44a diff fluid from the stealership. Once I get the rear pumpkin fluid changed and swap out these uber expensive sensors, I will have done just about everything to cure this shutter.

247 t case fluid change
New tps
Cleaned iac valve
Cleaned TB
Both trans sensors
D44a fluid change

Seeing as how I'm still getting no codes, what's next if these remedies don't fix the problem? I've already spent over 100. Keeping my fingers crossed for a sucessful day.
 
once again emphasizing how hard it is to diagnose a "shudder" from the right coast of the U.S. to Colorado... If all of the above doesn't do it, I'm back to recommending you get the tranny flushed. I think it is something that should be done to any used car/jeep purchased, since you have no idea when was the last time someone cared for that tranny, but with your symptoms, I think its really necessary. Sorry, I know you don't want to drop the coin.
 
Installed both new input and output speed sensors on the tranny and topped off the pumpkin and.................

Nothing! (as in, the shutter is still present)

On a positive note, the d44a no longer hums, the engine runs and idles like a champ after the new tps and cleaning the hell out of the iacv and tb....

The trans fluid smells unburnt to me and the mechanic I took it to a while back. And when he took it out for 40 mins he said he gave it hell and felt absolutely no transmission issues for it shifted smoothly.

At least now I can factor out sensors because I've dropped over 100 on new ones. I think you're right Chris, regarding the t case clutch engaging then disengaging... It's prob the case and I'll need a new 247.

But for now it drives fine and with practice, I can keep the shutter to a minimum. Still averaging 12.7 miles per gallon though!

For now I give up until whatever it is finally breaks. Just going ahead and ordering the lift this weekend ;)
 
start looking for a 242HD tcase, which came behind a few (very few) 4.7L Grands -- all mechanical, no clutches, 4wd PT, 4wd FT, 2wd, 4lo, and a stock 32 spline output shaft. nice. I wouldn't waste the effort replacing a shot 247 with another one... the only thing worse is a 249 (viscous coupler)...
 
xj-grin said:
start looking for a 242HD tcase, which came behind a few (very few) 4.7L Grands -- all mechanical, no clutches, 4wd PT, 4wd FT, 2wd, 4lo, and a stock 32 spline output shaft. nice. I wouldn't waste the effort replacing a shot 247 with another one... the only thing worse is a 249 (viscous coupler)...
Click to expand...

With the 242HD, would I have to change the linkage to the shifter or put new labels on the shifter bezel? Will it bolt up to the 45rfe?
 
yes, but you can get a factory shifter on ebay with 242 markings, and yes, it will bolt right up... read up at jeepforum in the WJ section and put on your learning cap.
 
xj-grin said:
... read up at jeepforum in the WJ section and put on your learning cap.
Click to expand...


Uh oh, papa's getting a little irritated......... :laugh:
 
YELLAHEEP said:
Uh oh, papa's getting a little irritated......... :laugh:
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Its probably because I call him at least once a week with questions because hes the only other person I know that owns one of these big hunks of crap.

But they sure are fast and comfy :loveu:

And trust me, Im on my iphone researching for a large part of the day... To the point where Karens threatening to turn off internet on our phones.

Oh, and we came out from dinner tonight with a big puddle of fluid under my front bumper... Didnt really have a smell to it, and it was dark, but I think its the tranny fluid leak from the trans cooler again..........

Also looking into one of those Cherry Bomb Turbo mufflers, not the abnoxious red glass pack. My mufflers rusted to shiiiiiit and for 20 bux, why not...
 
SurfXJSnow said:
Oh, and we came out from dinner tonight with a big puddle of fluid under my front bumper... Didnt really have a smell to it, and it was dark, but I think its the tranny fluid leak from the trans cooler again..........
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What color was it? Dark like oil, dark from the asphalt being wet, etc? ATF is red, fyi. Did you touch it or just stare at it?
 
mcantar18c said:
What color was it? Dark like oil, dark from the asphalt being wet, etc? ATF is red, fyi. Did you touch it or just stare at it?
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Dark like dark outside and I had nice clothes on from going out to dinner so i didnt want to deal with it. Im not troubleshooting the leak up front for I already know what it is, and it has happened before (tranny cooler lines). Im not worried about it, and yes I know ATF is red. :)
 
Jonathan -- was doing some reading early this morning... when you do your diff fluids, use non-sythetic gear oil and the exact amount of Mopar friction modifier called for (check your owner's manual, I don't have one) -- the varilock units (hydrolock if you as Dana) can get over lubricated, and slip so much they don't work... just FYI.
 
xj-grin said:
Jonathan -- was doing some reading early this morning... when you do your diff fluids, use non-sythetic gear oil and the exact amount of Mopar friction modifier called for (check your owner's manual, I don't have one) -- the varilock units (hydrolock if you as Dana) can get over lubricated, and slip so much they don't work... just FYI.
Click to expand...

I just topped it off with 80w90 non synthetic... Didn't add any other crap. So it could slip so much that it causes the jerkyness? What a high maintenance piece of crap.
 
not really, all LS diffs (except torsion-styles) require friction modifier. The point of the thread that I read was the combination of uber-slick synthetic with a friction modifier is too much lubrication for the clutches to work properly. I don't think you would get any jerkyness from too much modifier, but you would from too little -- i.e. the clutches are grabbing too much instead of smoothly engaging. The only way you will know you have the proper amount of friction modifier is to fully change the fluid (instead of topping off) and add the proper amount.
 
Will I ever have a full day of work again or will I constantly have to be tinkering with this thing? Jeebus! I was going to fully change the rear diff but it's got the rear sway bar right there and the skid plate that has 1000000 bolts to take it off in the way. I guess I've come this far money wise now, so maybe I'll get this fric modifier tomorrow and some rtv and do both pumpkins.
 
:rattle: dood, you want a vehicle you don't have to work on, buy a honda, not a jeep! :kissyou:
 
maybe.
 
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