Ehh. $110 buys a ton of diapers and baby food. I sure hope the 2 quarts of t case lube do the trick. But again, what color is the correct fluid gonna be?... I'm guessing NOT red...
The same color as the fluid you are going to put in after you drain it. :twak: of course the fluid you drain out will probably be a bit darker, unless the dealer just replaced the fluid.
Jonathan just called me to tell me the hex head on his drain plug is so stripped it won't take a wrench (indicating a pretty good chance the fluids haven't been changed) -- I suggested he weld a nut on, but he doesn't have a welder. Other suggestions for the man?
Jonathan just called me to tell me the hex head on his drain plug is so stripped it won't take a wrench (indicating a pretty good chance the fluids haven't been changed) -- I suggested he weld a nut on, but he doesn't have a welder. Other suggestions for the man?
Yes, as chris stated, it looks like some bloke used an impact the last time they took the drain plugs out. Put on my thinking cap for the 247 fluid was non returnable and I was wasting a good weather painting day to do this...
I got back in the jeep and found a T50 torx bit at the auto parts store and tried it on for size. It didn't want to go so I gave it a few taps with a dead blow and it fit snug enough that I could get the plugs out!
Even better news... Filled her up with 1.5 quarts of mopar 247 and took her for a spin.... After about 2 mins the problem went away!!! Decided to give it hell to make sure the problem was gone so I found every hill in a 10 mile radius and nothing! It's definitely gone and the trans and t case seem much more responsive.
I'm pretty sure the fluid I drained out was toast because it was a dirty light brown color when the new stuff had a nice yellow tint. I'm pretty sure the old fluid wasn't ATF4 though. Just happy the shutter is gone, for now!
hope you solved it, Jonathon, and that your relief is not just temporary (mine was, but I think my clutchpacks are simply toasted). Pick up a spare plug and replace that dog next time you change the fluid!
hope you solved it, Jonathon, and that your relief is not just temporary (mine was, but I think my clutchpacks are simply toasted). Pick up a spare plug and replace that dog next time you change the fluid!
Well had to run down to the hardware store to pick up a few things and I briefly had a shutter going up a hill. Ehh!!!! I'll see if it acts up on my drive home at spots that it did before the fluid change.
Starting to think this prob could be a bad fuel injector or tps? Took it to a mechanic today and he drove it for 40 mins while I waited and said he climbed every hill in town and got nothing. Supposedly a trans issue doesn't "sometimes show it's self", its either noticeable all the time or not present. He said use a good injector cleaner and maybe new plugs. Just seems odd seeing as how I've gotten no CEL lights. But I guess it makes sense when I really listen to the engine when it does the problem. It def changes noise when it acts up, and just because I feel it in the rear does not mean it's stricktly the trans for all torque and power from the engine is being transferred to the rear when climbing hills right? Next step is pull the injectors this weekend and clean them with carb cleaner, new air filter and new plugs.
Starting to think this prob could be a bad fuel injector or tps? Took it to a mechanic today and he drove it for 40 mins while I waited and said he climbed every hill in town and got nothing. Supposedly a trans issue doesn't "sometimes show it's self", its either noticeable all the time or not present. He said use a good injector cleaner and maybe new plugs. Just seems odd seeing as how I've gotten no CEL lights. But I guess it makes sense when I really listen to the engine when it does the problem. It def changes noise when it acts up, and just because I feel it in the rear does not mean it's stricktly the trans for all torque and power from the engine is being transferred to the rear when climbing hills right? Next step is pull the injectors this weekend and clean them with carb cleaner, new air filter and new plugs.
Leave the injectors in place and run a good fuel system cleaner through the gas tank. After you have run the tank down, change the plugs and fuel filter.
Change the air filter this weekend to keep yourself from putzing around with the injectors.
I'm telling you, first check those 2 weird sensors, there like $50 each. I can't remember what they're called but I remember we replaced them as they're a common issue.
With his WJ, it would shift really weird, then we'd shut it off, turn it back on and it would be fine and sometimes it would come back, sometimes it wouldn't. Took it to a few shops and they only one who got it right was All American 4x4 (after the second visit), they straight told us the trans is bad, thats when we went ahead and found a used one.
I think Jeremy is talking about the speed sensors on the transmission -- I don't recall the details, but Led and I were talking about that at COFest... could be the problem.
I think Jeremy is talking about the speed sensors on the transmission -- I don't recall the details, but Led and I were talking about that at COFest... could be the problem.
Ah yes, that is the one. Really easy to do, worth it to go buy some to see if that fixes the issue. I assume you're searching over at NAGCA? Even JeepForum?
After a full day of investigation, I've found that the shutter only happens at 1500 rpm between 45-48 mph. And if I hit the gas when the problem starts, it down shifts and the problem goes away. Dropped a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner in the tank yesterday and nothing changed. Other than that one bad spot between 45-48 mph, the jeep seems to run excellent. It just sucks because 45mph in the DC area is a common speed with all the traffic out here.
