Tranny cooler

mine was up there after I put the AN fittings on the trans to get rid of the quick discos. I just used a couple pieces of 1x3/16 bar stock, totally ghetto and didn't look the greatest but it worked well.

33717_1563846509755_5633101_n.jpg


you can see it in this shot before i straightened it out and put the window back in

67464_1562359752587_4677775_n.jpg
 
How did you mount it inside?
How did you route the lines?
Where did you pull 12volts from?
Did you have to use a check valve, since it was higher that the dipstick tube or vent?
 
PRYAPSM said:
How did you mount it inside?
-i have no interior, it's just bolted to the body above and below the window.
How did you route the lines?
-I put AN fittings on the transmission to replace the quick disconnect fittings, then ran rubber trans cooler hose 12" or so to hardlines (i used 5/16" hard brake line) that ran along the inner side of the frame rail all the way back to just inside the rear hatch then used bulkhead fittings to come through the body. then another hard line and a T with a temp sensor in it on the line on the "in" side of the cooler. rubber lines to the cooler itself.
Where did you pull 12volts from?
-ran a wire back with a switch to turn the 12" spal fan on and off
Did you have to use a check valve, since it was higher that the dipstick tube or vent?
-I didn't bother, it's not going to drain back into the pan enough to overflow out of the dipstick tube.
Click to expand...

I would get you some pics but this jeep got parted out last year and is long gone.
 
How did you mount it inside?
-i have no interior, it's just bolted to the body above and below the window.
Did you use self tapers or bolt and a nut?

How did you route the lines?
-I put AN fittings on the transmission to replace the quick disconnect fittings, then ran rubber trans cooler hose 12" or so to hardlines (i used 5/16" hard brake line) that ran along the inner side of the frame rail all the way back to just inside the rear hatch then used bulkhead fittings to come through the body. then another hard line and a T with a temp sensor in it on the line on the "in" side of the cooler. rubber lines to the cooler itself.
How much did that run you? Could I run trans line all the way?

Where did you pull 12volts from?
-ran a wire back with a switch to turn the 12" spal fan on and off
Far enough, did you have the fan on a thermostat or switch?

Did you have to use a check valve, since it was higher that the dipstick tube or vent?
-I didn't bother, it's not going to drain back into the pan enough to overflow out of the dipstick tube.
Check!
 
1) self tappers, no room to get a nut behind up top

2) the line needs to flex between the trans and body, other than that yes you could run hard line or soft line all the way. I chose to run hard line because it's tougher to put a hole in and won't dry rot. it was pricey, all together including the cooler and the fan i had about 200$ into it or so, at least. search for threads started by me in mod tech and you'll find the one about trans cooler lines. more details in there.

3.) switch only, with a temp gauge in plain view. the aw4 likes to be between 180 and 200, i only had to switch the fan on once going up a pretty steep grade on the freeway, within minutes it dropped from 210 to 180. normal driving and go fast wheelingi didn't need the fan on at all unless I was in 4low in real soft sand.

I will say with a 12" fan on there it is LOUD in the cab. I had no hatch so it didn't really bother me much but the first time i switched it on to test it in the garage i was like wow.
 
I have a Deraille cooler w/ electric fan hook up. I've been thinking about mounting it just in front of the rear axle in the drive shaft tunnel underneath with 1/4" flat bar to protect incase of drive shaft failure, I have full interior so inside is not preferred. I also thought under the hood attached to the hood. Thoughts???
 
Under the hood would be cool cause then I can cut holes in the hood use the fan to pull air up from the engine and out, which would be a double benefit, pulling hot air out and passing it thru the cooler at the same time!! Thoughts???
 
Only real problem with that is you're sucking hot air through the cooler. Under-hood temps in an XJ being what they are, the air under the hood could be well over 180deg, so you might not see much cooling effect.
 
Yup Yup thought about that too but the hood is shimmed up with 3/4" spacers so it's already being relieved of a lot of hot air and I just thought being limited under the hood and unibody it might be the best alternative to going inside the cabin. Besides then the a/c would have to work harder and hot tranny oil smells nasty to me!
 
What running the fan in a puller function? Pull outside air through and blow it out the bottom.
 
GrimmJeeper said:
1) self tappers, no room to get a nut behind up top


Okay


2) the line needs to flex between the trans and body, other than that yes you could run hard line or soft line all the way. I chose to run hard line because it's tougher to put a hole in and won't dry rot. it was pricey, all together including the cooler and the fan i had about 200$ into it or so, at least. search for threads started by me in mod tech and you'll find the one about trans cooler lines. more details in there.


I was thinking soft lines because they are cheaper and I can bend them any way I want. I will check out those posts.


3.) switch only, with a temp gauge in plain view. the aw4 likes to be between 180 and 200, i only had to switch the fan on once going up a pretty steep grade on the freeway, within minutes it dropped from 210 to 180. normal driving and go fast wheeling didn't need the fan on at all unless I was in 4low in real soft sand.


What was the average temp of your tranny without the fans on? Do you think I will even need a fan in there?


I will say with a 12" fan on there it is LOUD in the cab. I had no hatch so it didn't really bother me much but the first time i switched it on to test it in the garage i was like wow.


I will keep that in mind!
Click to expand...
 
look up my thread, there are even part numbers. its a 14mmx1.5 o-ring sealed fitting if i remember correctly.
 
PRYAPSM said:
Yeah with a little scoop on there do you think you will need a fan??
Click to expand...
Scoop would be good going down the road or Jeepspeed but I think the low speeds of crawling would not do as well unless the scoop opening was pointed towards the windshield and the radiator fan could push air threw it. Probably not enough though!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
'98 XJ - AW4 torque converter won't lock up when hot
Replies
2
Views
281
Bryn Jones
B
bradleyheathhays
Adding a transmission cooler to a stock 96 XJ
Replies
4
Views
231
THE2NDXJ
T
DZRTANK
1988 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 Stroker 4.6l Auto w/ Lift and Armor - $6,500 (Chino Valley, AZ)
Replies
5
Views
496
DZRTANK
DZRTANK
my2monkeys
aw4 running temps?
Replies
11
Views
379
Unclewolverine
U
M
Questions about aw4 to ax15(nv3550) swap
Replies
2
Views
573
ljobbins
L
Back
Top