Towing hitch hardware sizes

M

Mr.Bob

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Longmont, Colorado
I've searched a number of threads here on the topic of installing a hitch but didn't get a clear idea of the hardware I'll need.
I bought a Valley Industries Class III on Craig's List. Came with no hardware. Looking beneath my 99 XJ I see the nut strip on the passenger side and just holes on the drivers side of the frame.
Thread pitch and length of the bolts for the strip? Should I find a nut strip for the other side? Didn't I read about fishing carriage bolts through the frame? I'm not planning on towing anything more than 1 or 2 trail bikes.
Rust is not a big issue on this unit and it doesn't look as if a hitch was previously installed.
 
You can fish just regular bolts through the holes. You need the pieces of metal that fit in the frame rail for you to use carriage bolts. Just fish some some bolts with a decent sized washer and a lock nut and bolt it up. I'd recommend using grade 8.. It's pretty straight forward, may want to try to use a magnet to fish them in
 
xj_maniac_newb said:
You can fish just regular bolts through the holes. You need the pieces of metal that fit in the frame rail for you to use carriage bolts. Just fish some some bolts with a decent sized washer and a lock nut and bolt it up. I'd recommend using grade 8.. It's pretty straight forward, may want to try to use a magnet to fish them in
Click to expand...

Do NOT use this method if you ever plan on using the hitch for a recovery point. You WILL rip the "frame" rails using this mounting method.

Just get yourself some of these: Nutstrips and you will have no issues.
 
And the nutstrips typically take M12-1.75 screws, in case they don't come with them.

If you can't get a nutstrip set, you can have holes broached in thickish (~3/16"-1/4") steel plates that fit down the frame rails - have the holes broached square, and you can use a 7/16" or 1/2" carriage bolt. That's how the hitch on my 87 was attached, and it went through some rough use!

Any competent machine shop should be able to broach any size square hole you want in plate that thin. Figure the inside width of the channel, make the plate a bit narrower in width and about an inch or an inch and a half longer (this holes the bolt while you're getting the nut on it, and the plate works like a load spreader.) Ideally, the plate thickness should be equal to or just slightly more than the thickness of the square boss on the bolt. It takes some wire-and-magnet work to get them in place, but it's doable.
 
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Tim_MN said:
Fishing nuts into the frame is a pain in the butt, and plan to never remove the hitch again. Get some nut-strips, which are actually called frame reinforcements. You will have to remove the bumper to install them.

Part Number 52001174 and 52001175 at Morris 4x4. $15.99 each.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/sill-reinforcement-bracket-right-side-52001174.html
Click to expand...

Hell man! I never said it was easy - just doable...

I know, because I had to do it. Given a choice - nutstrips are far easier!
 
MT Mike said:
Just get yourself some of these: Nutstrips and you will have no issues.
Click to expand...

This, by far the easiest/best/strongest way to do it. I usually just take a strip of 1.5" 1/4 plate and make my own with some 1/2" Gr8 hardware. This is not the type of thing to halfass, do it right and never worry about it again.
 
Okay, if I understand correctly, I use the passenger side nut strip and order a nut strip for the driver side. I haven't crawled under there yet so I'm asking, how is the nut strip installed in the frame rail?
I also know that the passenger side nut strip is a metric size and the new one will be whatever the manufacturer used. I'm guessing the bolts will be an inch or two long.
Anyone have mixed fasteners on their Cherokee? My stock shock bolts on the upper side were 13mm on one side and 1/2" on the other.
 
Mr.Bob said:
Okay, if I understand correctly, I use the passenger side nut strip and order a nut strip for the driver side. I haven't crawled under there yet so I'm asking, how is the nut strip installed in the frame rail?
I also know that the passenger side nut strip is a metric size and the new one will be whatever the manufacturer used. I'm guessing the bolts will be an inch or two long.
Anyone have mixed fasteners on their Cherokee? My stock shock bolts on the upper side were 13mm on one side and 1/2" on the other.
Click to expand...

If you order the set from JCR that I linked, you could replace both sides using the 1/2" hardware that goes with their nutstrips. You have to take the rear bumper off to install the driver side strip, so replacing the passenger side isn't going to take any extra time.
 
MT Mike said:
If you order the set from JCR that I linked, you could replace both sides using the 1/2" hardware that goes with their nutstrips. You have to take the rear bumper off to install the driver side strip, so replacing the passenger side isn't going to take any extra time.
Click to expand...

Got it, thanks. Looks like I better get another can of PB Blaster.
 
x2 on the nut strips... I did mine with just the nuts and bolts and the biggest washers i could fit, worked but it was a PAIN. Took forever to fish those stupid things in.

And for anyone who comes across this thread, if you do decide to fish the bolts in the best way i found was to use a little welding wire.. either wrap it around the thread at the head or just put a weak tack on the bolt head. But if you do tack it i'd suggest some paint on it if you can get it in there.. Rust is CONTAGIOUS!! lmao
 
Get a Metric tap set and chase the threads on the weld nuts in the body for the bumper brackets, and put anti-seize on every bolt.

When you've got the bumper off, you'll see how the passenger side nut strip is situated. The driver's side should be a mirror image. I don't recall, but I'm pretty sure you can't get the holes to line up if they are not inserted correctly.

From their website:
http://www.vtowing.com/ISHEETS/73610.pdf

M12x1.75x40mm, class 10.5
 
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Mr.Bob said:
Edit: Just ordered a pair of nut strips from Morris 4x4 for 16 bucks each.
Click to expand...

I used these too. Worked great. You can install them and forget about it. The strips from Chrysler are called "Sill reinforcement brackets" for anyone who wants to get one from the stealership.
 
xjsnake said:
I used these too. Worked great. You can install them and forget about it. The strips from Chrysler are called "Sill reinforcement brackets" for anyone who wants to get one from the stealership.
Click to expand...

Nut strips ordered. I am told that it will be necessary to remove the back bumper to install the strips. I'll search that process but will appreciate any descriptions.
I need a 2" tongue for my new trailer hitch and yesterday I found one lying in the street. :clap:
 
xj_maniac_newb said:
x2 on the nut strips... I did mine with just the nuts and bolts and the biggest washers i could fit, worked but it was a PAIN. Took forever to fish those stupid things in.

And for anyone who comes across this thread, if you do decide to fish the bolts in the best way i found was to use a little welding wire.. either wrap it around the thread at the head or just put a weak tack on the bolt head. But if you do tack it i'd suggest some paint on it if you can get it in there.. Rust is CONTAGIOUS!! lmao
Click to expand...

Straighten out a wire coat hanger, and use tape to hold a small button magnet up against the hole from underneath. Work from the farthest point forward on back (or you're going to get in your own way.)

Don't wrap the wire (whatever sort) firmly around the screw shank - go 1/2- to 3/4-way around. Drop the bolt through the hole, start the nut, and you should be able to pull the wire off. Re-hook it, and repeat.

The nutstrips are far easier to go in - once you've removed the rear bumper, you'll see oval holes that correspond to the subframe rails. Fish the nutstrip in through these holes, start the bolts loosely, and do not torque one screw until ALL at started! Get the hitch up and straight, torque it down, then reinstall the rear bumper.
 
Mr.Bob said:
Edit: Just ordered a pair of nut strips from Morris 4x4 for 16 bucks each.
Click to expand...

The nutstrips are here. They look well made and I'll soon know about the fit. It looks like I need to remove the bumper end caps to get at the upper nuts on the bracket. Getting a wrench in there looks to be challenging. It would help a lot if I knew what size those nuts are. Anyone?
I'll spray PB in there over the next couple of days but rust isn't a real issue around here.
I'll check with NAPA for a plug-in wire harness for the lights. Which side do I access to install this?
Next projects are installing my Bilsteins and junkyard door.
 
jeeptorino68 said:
wiring harness should plug in behind the drivers side interior cargo are panel.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that.
Bumper is almost removed. The nuts holding the upper portion of the bumper are 15mm. Yes, a ratcheted open end and lots of PB Blaster are your friend. Removing the end cap involved unbolting the 10mm nut and bolt on the outer corner of the cap. The fastener on the bottom of the cap and closest to the wheel well is 1/4". I couldn't grab it with my socket so used a reaming tool on my drill to open the hole a little until I could grab it with my needle nose.
I can't imagine what this job would be like if I had rust to deal with.:doh:
 
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