Towing A 93 Cherokee

k1ngcrew

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PA.
1st. POST I just got a 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4x4. It did not come with a
owner's manual. I would like to use a tow dolly and tow with my truck camper. It is a stick shift 4x4. Some have told me to put the tranny and
the transfer case in neutral and others say to remove the driveshaft that
is on the ground.
What is the procedure for towing a 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with stick
shift on a tow dolly. HELP!!!

Thanks : Clyde
 
Place trans in Nuetral (you have a manual trans, so this is okay), then place the t-case in neutral.

Simple, easy.

No need to pull the shaft out.

Search the forums on this, as there are many posts on this subject. One of them even has the owners manual written verbatim.
 
Quote from '93 owner's manual:

CAUTION! Internal damage to the transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel-lift is used when towing.

Since your tow dolly is a front wheel lift, you should disconnect the rear drive shaft. The transfer case will lose fluid if you pull the yoke out. Flat towing is the way to go.
 
In my Owners Manual (1988 Jeep Cherokee), to me using a tow dolly would be considered what the Owners Manual calls:

Towing A Disabled Vehicle
If your vehicle is disabled and is to be towed with the front or rear wheels off the ground, towing speed should be limited to 30 mph (48 km/h) for a distance no greater than 15 miles (24 km).
CAUTION: Do not disconnect rear prop shaft because fluid will leak from the transfer case and damage internal parts.

Command-Trac with Ignition Key Available
*Manual Transmission
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position to unlock the steering column. Shift the transmission into gear and the transfer case to N (Neutral). The vehicle can now be towed with the front or rear wheels raised.
*Automatic Transmission
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position to unlock the steering column and gear shift linkage. Shift transmission into P (Park) and transfer case to N (Neutral). The vehicle can now be towed with the front or rear wheels raised.

Command-Trac with Ignition Key Not Available and Vehicle Unlocked
*Manual Transmission
Shift the transmission into gear and the transfer case to N (Neutral). The vehicle can now be towed with the front wheels raised.
*Automatic Transmission
Check that transmission is in P (Park), and shift transfer case to N (Neutral), The vehicle can now be towed with the front wheels raised.

Command-Trac with Ignition Key Not Available and Vehicle Locked
*Manual and Automatic Transmissions
Place a dolly under the rear wheels and tow with the front end raised.

Select-Trac with Ignition Key Available
Turn the ignition key to the OFF position to unlock the steering column and gear shift linkage. Shift transmission into P (Park) and transfer case to N (Neutral). The vehicle can now be towed with all four wheels on the ground or with front or rear wheels raised.

Select-Trac with Ignition Key Not Available and Vehicle Unlocked
Check that transmission is in P (Park), and shift transfer case to N (Neutral). The vehicle can now be towed with the front wheels raised.

Select-Trac with Ignition Key Not Available and Vehicle Locked
Place a dolly under the rear wheels and tow with the front end raised.

Emergency Towing--- Transfer Case Cannot be Shifted to Neutral
If the transfer case cannot be shifted into N (Neutral), place a dolly under the rear wheels and tow the vehicle with the front wheels raised.
CAUTION: If the vehicle must be towed with the wheels on the ground, the ignition key must be turned to the OFF position to unlock the steering column.
The steering column lock is not strong enough to withstand the shock transmitted from the front wheels while towing. Also, before towing the vehicle with the rear wheels lifted, secure the steering column with a steering wheel clamping device designed for towing service.

This was taken verbatum from my OM.
Anyone's Owners Manual read differently? (newer or otherwise)
 
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I have flat towed in the past and would have preferred using a dolly. If you break your junk it's much easier getting the rear in working order to tow on those wheels. Plus it gives you the option of pulling someone else's junk home and letting someone drive yours. That happens a lot!

I would pull the rear shaft. It's four bolts and easy insurance. You never know what can bounce into gear. I would keep a small open ended wrench and a bungee cord in the glove box to pull the shaft.
 
I would pull the rear shaft. It's four bolts and easy insurance. You never know what can bounce into gear. I would keep a small open ended wrench and a bungee cord in the glove box to pull the shaft.
Are you saying to leave it connected to the TC and lashed up underneath with the bungee cord? (I'm sure that's what you mean.)

If not then:
CAUTION: Do not disconnect rear prop shaft because fluid will leak from the transfer case and damage internal parts.
 
Are you saying to leave it connected to the TC and lashed up underneath with the bungee cord? (I'm sure that's what you mean.)

Yes, pull the rear end of the shaft.

EDIT: It is has been my experience that t-case fluid will only leak if the t-case pump is moving. Since the front wheels are on a dolly and the rear would then be un-attached, fluid may not leak. Others may have a different experience though. Pulling the rear shaft without an SYE may cause the shaft to work its way out of the T-case end while towing. I had an SYE, so my shaft was bolted to the t-case/flange/yoke.

If your stock, maybe pull the rear shaft completely and get a spare rear shaft yoke and stick it on the rear of the t-case for towing. The suction and the seal will probably keep the spare yoke on.
 
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