I'll add that it'd be best to go ahead and replace the front input seal as well. Might not be as big a deal with a new converter with an un-grooved input, but if you put in a used one, the grooves it has won't likely line up with the old seal and you could find yourself with a leaker.
This will require dropping the trans pretty much out and down, but since you'll be that far into it, it'd be good piece of mind.
A trans jack makes the job much easier....... those can be rented from most tool rental places. Otherwise, no special tools other than what Dutch mentioned about the E-12Torx socket to get the top two bell housing bolts.
You'll be removing both drive shafts, cooling lines, harness/plugs and breather hoses. 4 bolts on the torque converter holding it to the flex plate, starter removed too. You can leave the cross member bolted to the trans mount and the t-case on, but I find it easier to remove the cross member and replace it once the trans is all bolted back up and in place.