Tomorrow is the day

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wesleyxcore

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fayetteville, NC
I'll be starting the install of a Rubicon Express 3.5 Superflex lift on my cherokee tomorrow after work (hopefully, if I dont get off late and get lazy again). It'll probably last a few days I'm guessing. Any last minute advice?

(I'm doing it on post at the auto skills shop if anybody in the area would like to stop by to say hello and lend me a hand)
 
hit it with PB blaster...too loosen up the bolts
 
We'll let's hear about it!!......
 
Got off work late so I didn't get much done. Got most of the front end torn down and was able to get the control arms on. Had to quit at about 8 so I'm bummed about that. Hopefully I can get out early today and knock out the rest. I'm trying to get everything taken care of including a SYE and CV drive shaft install by around this time next week, so we'll see how it works out. Quick question for anyone who'll answer regarding the torx head bolt holding the sway bar links to their bracket. I couldn't get the bolt out after getting the nut off, and ended up bouncing the sway bar links off the bolt after beating on it for a while. Any ideas on getting this thing out nicely? Or am I just going to have to cut it and replace it with the bolt that comes with the disconnects.

Thanks

P.S. Should I get some YJ front brake lines? Or should I just straighten out the Z bend? I'm a little confused by that, how does it help if I'm just reattaching the bracket to the same place in the fenderwell
 
DrRandy said:
hit it with PB blaster...too loosen up the bolts
Click to expand...

Lots and lots and lots of PB Blaster!

On the brake lines, you should be fine up front for the time being...I upgraded mine after about a year to Rough Country YJ Stainless Steel lines...made a big difference in performance!
 
wesleyxcore said:
...I couldn't get the bolt out after getting the nut off, and ended up bouncing the sway bar links off the bolt after beating on it for a while. Any ideas on getting this thing out nicely? Or am I just going to have to cut it and replace it with the bolt that comes with the disconnects.
Click to expand...


That bolt is pressed in similar to a Lug Stud in an axleshaft/ hub assembly If you're replacing it anyways, just go to town on it with a 3 lb sledge. it'll pop out after a few good whacks. if it's reallty rusted in, you might have to PB blaster it and then heat with a torch and pound out.
 
On the brakelines- you can straighten out the bend a little just be careful. I ran stock lines at 4" and it was fine though. Got tight but never close to busting.

Get a YJ rear brakeline for the rear though. It's a few inches longer than stock XJ and it'll be good to go.
 
mbogosia said:
Have a good set of pry bars, a punch set, and a impact gun. You can get them for cheap at harbor freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1654

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66337

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45252
Click to expand...

I love me some harbor freight...I think I will go there over lunch and gaze at all the tools I could use but don't have room for in the garage...
 
People have used a pitman arm puller with success on the sway bar bolt if the BFH route doesn't work.
 
Yeah, I saw the thing about the pitman arm puller AFTER I took the time to cut the bolts and start drilling them out. That ate up a bunch of time, and I wasn't able to finish. Pretty much just have to change the rear leafs now and throw the new rear shocks on and I should be done. Lucked out and didnt have any broken shock bolts, so not everything is going bad.
 
Anybody with experience in lifting later year XJs have anything to say about driveline vibes. A SYE and CV DS are on the immediate to do list but I am taking a 250 mile trip next week to the DC area and would've liked to take the Jeep (the dog and my other car's leather don't mix very well). Is it going to be manageable? Terrible around town and ok on the highway, or the other way around? Or am I just going to rattle the driveline out from the bottom of the jeep 5 miles down the road.

Thanks for the advice and help guys, the wife's been taking pictures so hopefully I'll have some up soon.
 
A good alignment will increase your chances of survival.
 
wesleyxcore said:
Anybody with experience in lifting later year XJs have anything to say about driveline vibes. A SYE and CV DS are on the immediate to do list but I am taking a 250 mile trip next week to the DC area and would've liked to take the Jeep (the dog and my other car's leather don't mix very well). Is it going to be manageable? Terrible around town and ok on the highway, or the other way around? Or am I just going to rattle the driveline out from the bottom of the jeep 5 miles down the road.

Thanks for the advice and help guys, the wife's been taking pictures so hopefully I'll have some up soon.
Click to expand...

Throw a 1" t-case drop on for the time being, that will help substantially until you do the SYE. T-case drop kits are relatively cheap or if you have some material laying around you could fab up your own and pick up some longer bolts from the hardware store.

Hard to say what speed the vibes are going to be and how bad. On mine, at upper speeds it smoothed out (or at least felt that way) and they were most notable at low speeds, and mainly when accelerating from a stop.
 
For those of you who have done the home brew TC drop, was there a certain direction you went with. I found this, as far as needed supplies and instructions, does that look ok?

Thanks a lot for the help guys, I appreciate it. Hopefully I'll have the bastard on the road tonight.
 
wesleyxcore said:
For those of you who have done the home brew TC drop, was there a certain direction you went with. I found this, as far as needed supplies and instructions, does that look ok?

Thanks a lot for the help guys, I appreciate it. Hopefully I'll have the bastard on the road tonight.
Click to expand...

That is more work than necessary. Get a bunch (probably around 25-40) large washers and use them as spacers and I believe you'll need longer bolts too. That will allow you to fine tune the drop to the point where you no longer have bad vibes.
 
Appalachian Armor said:
That is more work than necessary. Get a bunch (probably around 25-40) large washers and use them as spacers and I believe you'll need longer bolts too. That will allow you to fine tune the drop to the point where you no longer have bad vibes.
Click to expand...


This would be the easiest route to go untill you can get the SYE on.
 
This will probably go down as the longest lift install in the history of man. Keep running into road blocks. Tried to get the rear leafs off yesterday and ran into trouble with the hitch. Tried to take the hitch off and realized the retards who installed it were, well, retarded. Hopefully tomorrow will see the lift together and on the road. After that, TC drop, tires mounted and balanced, and that should be it for now.
 
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