tires...33's or 35's...

[jragan]

I know a stupid question 35's of course... Here is my setup and before I go much futher I want to throw some thoughts around... I am currently running about 6.5 " of lift, 4.56 gear (do not think other mods matter for info I am looking for). The Cherokee is going to be flat towed behind the truck with cabover camper. A number of the trips we make doing this will be for wheeling however we will still have those trips that are not. Thinking the use of the Jeep will be for my wife's 6 mile (round trip) commute as it is currently used, and when camping might run 30-50 miles down the highway for site seeing or to get to a trail. I am have searched and found a ton of info back and forth on which tire size to go with, however wanted to talk with Colorado folks that actually deal with the altitude and real hills\mountains.

So... 4.56 and 35's running down the highway, do able? Flat towing bigger tire vs. smaller tire?

Also do the events limit tire size on trail runs. Currently running 32's and need to know if I should look at tires before Colorado Fest (more then likely just be up for a few days) and also Oct in Moab. I do not want to be limited however if I go 33's the 1/2" ground clearance is not buying me much so would rather run the 32's down and do a long arm.

 

[YELLAHEEP]

The only reason tire size would be "limited" would be for the harder trails where clearance, gears, lockers and armor are required. Most hard trails in Colorado need a 33" or larger tire.

As far as flat towing, tire size (33 or 35) really isn't going to matter - tire width and having it properly aligned is the biggest issue. I've flat towed my rig (8" lift, 35's, 4:56's, Detroits front and rear, Phat Jeep's Canyon Climber steering) with no issues at all - straight and true on the highway and steers with the truck on slow, tight turns.

My buddy's jeep however had 33/9.50's, stock steering and open diff with 4:56's and his jeep would wander around on the highway behind the truck, and on turns the steering would suddenly turn hard into the turn to full lock and he'd drag the front tires sideways...... royal PITA to have to get out mid-turn and have to turn the jeep's wheels into the turn..... We attributed it to the tall, skinny tire and the stock steering being a little off-geometry with his 6" lift.

Now, as far as driving the XJ with 35's and 4:56's...... mine is a 5 speed and even with the added gears over an automatic, it's a dog in the hills, not too bad on the highway - granted, I believe my engine is tired, but I'd say that tire/gear combo is maxed. 35's and 4:88's would be an improvement.

Personally, I think a good flat tow/driver combo would be a 33/10.50 tire with the 4:56's, and get a good over the knuckle steering setup that eliminates the inverted "Y" stock steering.

 

[Kittrell]

4.56s and 35s on the highway suuuuucks. I have 4.88s and 33s, and I could not imagine dealing with the power loss to go to 35s without a regear. Colorado highways were not made for "stock" tire/gear ratios. Also, I've never seen the need for a 35" tire for a good majority of what we have out here. Especially not for scenic. You could get away with 31s and a decent lift if all you were hitting was Chinamans or trails in the San Juans. Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of trails out here that 35s would really be a minimum. But with what you've listed at the intended use, there is just really no need to go that big.

 

[jragan]

Good to here this info and was leaning toward 33's. Anyone else?

Another thought I have had is long arms or drop bracket in the front. Current have none adjustable RE uppers. So once I go new uppers, and drop brackets I am only a few hundred off of an TNT long arm.

What I am running into is bought this jeep from a guy that peiced together everything. Seemed like a good deal, however find myself going back and doing everything the right way now..