Tire Q's For those that know me....

[Bones]

Not the brand, they will be GY MT-R's. I have had good luck with the first set and see no reason to change.

I am trying to decide on size. It is between the 33x12.5's I presently run and the 35x12.5's I want to run.

Difference in the cost of the tire isn't the issue. Brakes aren't an issue (4wheel disc). Power and gears aren't an issue, the stroker pushing through the 4:56's can turn either size. Lift isn't an issue, I have a sawzall.

The problem is the front axle. I am just worried about the D30 and TrueTrac up front. The rear 44 is on tap to get alloy axles, but I don't want to pour much into the D30, as I want a RCD44 up front when funds allow (probably next year).

Can the D30 live with 35's for a year or two if I mildly tame my driving style, or should I stay with the 33's? I have never broken an axle that wasn't preceded by a U-joint cap failure [and then only one], but I don't want to start either.

This year's trail plans are CO (any) and the Rubi along with the Oct trip in Moab.

Those that know me, Can I do the 35's?


Ummm....Let's just forget about that one small incident on Double Whammy if you will. That was Beezil's fault


Bones :skull1:

 

[poppabear]

should be fine... I know quite a few guys running HPD30's with 35x12.50's, MTR's at that... as long as you are running the 297/760 you should be ok....

 

[Nay]

Not the brand, they will be GY MT-R's. I have had good luck with the first set and see no reason to change.

I am trying to decide on size. It is between the 33x12.5's I presently run and the 35x12.5's I want to run.

Difference in the cost of the tire isn't the issue. Brakes aren't an issue (4wheel disc). Power and gears aren't an issue, the stroker pushing through the 4:56's can turn either size. Lift isn't an issue, I have a sawzall.

The problem is the front axle. I am just worried about the D30 and TrueTrac up front. The rear 44 is on tap to get alloy axles, but I don't want to pour much into the D30, as I want a RCD44 up front when funds allow (probably next year).

Can the D30 live with 35's for a year or two if I mildly tame my driving style, or should I stay with the 33's? I have never broken an axle that wasn't preceded by a U-joint cap failure [and then only one], but I don't want to start either.

This year's trail plans are CO (any) and the Rubi along with the Oct trip in Moab.

Those that know me, Can I do the 35's?


Ummm....Let's just forget about that one small incident on Double Whammy if you will. That was Beezil's fault


Bones :skull1:

Dude, it doesn't matter. You'll pull into camp, decide that you have some major repair to undertake, and miss the whole damn event.

Get the 35's. As long as you understand what a True Trac won't do performance-wise, and don't try to slam things with throttle (like Double Whammy, which you will never, ever conquer with a front True Trac), the 30 will be fine for a year of wrenching away from home. If I were you, I'd be a lot more concerned if I had a locker up there.

The nature of the True Trac is to slip when you need it most, therefore preventing breakage. In a front axle, think of it as a performance-limiting fuse. Works for me every time :banghead: .

Nay

 

[BIG98XJ]

Id hate to admit this but yes I`m running 37" SSRs on a D30, with 456s and a powetrax no-slip, Ive got yukon shafts and havent broke one yet, nor a u joint, I give it hell also been through all the hardest trails in the southeast except for windrock without breakage! I have no stroker by anymeans but my 4.0 is maxed out