Time for a build thread... 2001 XJ

[casm]

I asked Montana Fab about that (can't remember the guy's name - extremely friendly and helpful though) and was told it wouldn't be possible due to the logic controlled by the knob itself... Not sure of the specifics, but you may want to give them a ring and they could probably break it down for you. I asked about simplifying it to a simple push toggle button on the shifter (just to lock it into 2 - never had a problem with needing to keep it in 1), but it'd be worth asking him about.

Interesting, and I will definitely be giving them a call in the next few days. FWIW, I've been trying to persuade OTRATTW into doing a run of the rocker switch face described above, but the minimum run that Carling will apparently do for them is a quantity of 250. If there's something that knob is controlling other than just a simple on-off-on action, this may make doing that unrealistic.

I'm still debating on this point - the main reason I'm steering away from a locker of any kind in the front is to avoid sudden shocks or excessive strain to the drivetrain. I'd rather find a way to get un-stuck than blow an axle shaft or U-joint on the trail (the goal is to minimize the risk of *any* breakage).

Understood - and this is definitely one reason why I wasn't completely knocking the front LSD idea; it certainly does provide useful additional traction in some circumstances. However, I haven't yet been able to come up with a situation where I can quantifiably say that it's absolutely superior to the alternatives (4LO, a little more gas, better line, etc.). I also have a suspicion that it may be introducing some drag into the driveline at times that's hurting fuel economy slightly, but that's really just a suspicion at this point as I don't have any numbers to put to it.

My one consistent gripe has to do with using it in 4FT: steering grab. I like being able to turn around on the trail, and use 4FT regularly in lousy weather. Depending on the surface I'm driving on, the LSD can kick unexpectedly in with the steering at moderate lock, thus negating the advantages of having a centre diff. It doesn't happen all the time by any means, but it always seems to kick in just when I don't want it to. Just mentioning it because I'm running a 242 as well, so figured I'd pass it on.

The only reason I'm interested in a modified Backbone is indeed because of the stock bumper/caps - I like the idea of a slight crumple zone remaining on the front of the car just in case I drop on the front end too hard or am involved in a low-speed collision. The FbG (and other similar bumpers) scare me purely because of how strong they are - a small fender-bender could end up being more along the lines of a frame-bender with these things.

Copy that, and if my stock bumpers and end caps weren't already dented and barely hanging on anymore, I'd probably be right there with you

I'm drawing up a few sketches tonight and will be meeting with Mark sometime tomorrow morning. He has a few minutes to shoot the breeze about it, so we'll see what his thoughts are (as I may be overlooking some crucial details). I'll definitely let you know what pans out.

Please do; I'm very interested in how this all shakes out.

 

[anthrax323]

Interesting, and I will definitely be giving them a call in the next few days. FWIW, I've been trying to persuade OTRATTW into doing a run of the rocker switch face described above, but the minimum run that Carling will apparently do for them is a quantity of 250. If there's something that knob is controlling other than just a simple on-off-on action, this may make doing that unrealistic.

I'd be interested in hearing the outcome - you might even collaborate with Montana Fab if you have any success with this route, as they might help you fill that minimum order if it's feasible.

Understood - and this is definitely one reason why I wasn't completely knocking the front LSD idea; it certainly does provide useful additional traction in some circumstances. However, I haven't yet been able to come up with a situation where I can quantifiably say that it's absolutely superior to the alternatives (4LO, a little more gas, better line, etc.). I also have a suspicion that it may be introducing some drag into the driveline at times that's hurting fuel economy slightly, but that's really just a suspicion at this point as I don't have any numbers to put to it.

My one consistent gripe has to do with using it in 4FT: steering grab. I like being able to turn around on the trail, and use 4FT regularly in lousy weather. Depending on the surface I'm driving on, the LSD can kick unexpectedly in with the steering at moderate lock, thus negating the advantages of having a centre diff. It doesn't happen all the time by any means, but it always seems to kick in just when I don't want it to. Just mentioning it because I'm running a 242 as well, so figured I'd pass it on.

Hadn't thought about that, but what you're saying makes sense - I'll definitely keep this in mind. Since the axles getting lockers will be bench built, I might just go with selectable lockers... If I could pair a TrueTrac with an ARB air locker in the rear, I think I'd be in heaven.

At this point, though, I haven't installed my 242 - just running a 231 with a Tom Woods SD SYE.

Please do; I'm very interested in how this all shakes out.

...My dumb ass forgot to bring my sketches with me when I met Mark. I'll be e-mailing them to him in the next day or two.

 

[anthrax323]

Well, my Slimline is installed... Here's a brief summary of what went on.

Arrival and unpacking:


Some close-up shots of the various aspects of its construction:











Before tearing everything apart:



Torn down:



And suddenly, it was installed:









The whole bumper was painted with Rustoleum Industrial flat black rattle can paint (surprisingly cheap for such large cans, ~$5 ea).

A few notes about the installation:

• The pieces on the rear quarter panels that are riveted to the body in order to support the stock bumper caps must be removed (not written in the instructions, but should probably have been assumed).
• Tightening all the bolts was an unspeakable pain in the ass. Turn 4 degrees, flip the wrench over, turn another 2 degrees, flip the wrench over to the 12-point box end, turn another 2 degrees, and repeat... Over and over. This was made considerably worse by the OE hitch.
• The factory hitch nut strips had to basically be cut in half (as only the front 2 will remain stock when taking the detours frame rail hardware into account). Cutting the strips in half and using the removed pieces to slide them all the way into place worked quite well.
• Two new holes had to be drilled in the factory hitch in order to secure the forward bolt on the Detours frame rail bracket/hardware. Not sure if this is an issue with all hitches, but it was with mine.
• I can't stress enough how much of a pain in the ass tightening all the bolts was.

I have yet to cut out the wheel well interior sheet metal in order to secure the side skirts, but might do that tonight (I want to find some metal stock to patch the holes once done first... Some screws and RTV would be sufficient). All in all, I'm really, really liking it.

 

[anthrax323]

Oh yeah, and many thanks to crooked_barrel for swinging by and lending a hand! My dumb ass worked pretty slowly so there wasn't a whole lot to do, but hey, the company and support definitely helped, lol

 

[kastein]

Get a set of GearWrenches. They are AWESOME - you can turn a fastener with as little as 5 degrees of freedom without ever taking the wrench off of it. I have (well, had, before holes in my junkyard bag liberated a couple I haven't replaced yet) 8mm through 18mm, and they are ALL used at various points on the XJ.

 

[casm]

I'd be interested in hearing the outcome - you might even collaborate with Montana Fab if you have any success with this route, as they might help you fill that minimum order if it's feasible.

I've been meaning to get in touch with them, but now that family's in town for Thanksgiving it probably won't happen before next week. It is on the cards, though.

Since the axles getting lockers will be bench built, I might just go with selectable lockers... If I could pair a TrueTrac with an ARB air locker in the rear, I think I'd be in heaven.

Understood. Here's the basic thought process I went through when I ended up with the ECTEDs:

Air-selectable lockers will require locating a compressor somewhere and free space is at a premium in XJs. However, they also have the advantage of opening up the possibility of OBA if a larger-capacity compressor is used. That said, I wanted an LSD in at least the rear for day-to-day driving and mild trail use, which the ARBs didn't offer (though this may have changed since I last looked at them). Couple those with the idea of doing a trail repair on an air line vs. wiring, and the electric lockers looked more appealing.

With that said and getting back to the no-front-LSD idea for a moment, if I were redoing this I'd keep the ECTED in the rear but run an Eaton E-Locker in the front since it's fully-open when disengaged. My experience with the 242 has been that having a front locker is definitely useful, but if I need to lock the fronts I'm typically doing something that requires being in 4LO anyway so steering grab is a given; for 4PT/4FT/2WD usage, just locking the rear has been sufficient.

Just as an aside regarding OBA: I think that I've figured out what would work for accomplishing that cheaply on a small scale (lockers, airing up tyres, not filling a tank or running air tools) in an XJ-friendly package, but until the bracket's built to locate it it's still theoretical. Gotta work out how to run air lines, switches, and gauges, too.

At this point, though, I haven't installed my 242 - just running a 231 with a Tom Woods SD SYE.

Gotcha. You'll probably like the 242 when you get around to it; that centre diff can be very useful.

...My dumb ass forgot to bring my sketches with me when I met Mark. I'll be e-mailing them to him in the next day or two.

No worries; it happens when it happens.

BTW: thanks for the photos of the Slimline. I'd wondered how the hinge and latch for the tyre carrier were mounted to it, and having them up against the D-ring receivers like that is one of the smarter ideas I've seen in that area.

 

[Cnickgo]

Looking great! Let me know if you are wrenching and need a hand/spectator.

 

[MG2000XJ]

Any updates?

 

[anthrax323]

Not a whole lot has happened other than a rear disc conversion (KJ donor, WJ soft lines), new axle seals...

And a run-in with a calf out in Big Bend this past weekend.

I'll start the tear-down once the new fender and grill panel arrive, as well as the Rigid FbG I have on order. The whole car is likely going to receive a Raptor Liner paintjob, which I'll detail as well.

 

[HMGanja]

The whole car is likely going to receive a Raptor Liner paintjob, which I'll detail as well.

Would love to see this. Get any veal?

 

[anthrax323]

Would love to see this. Get any veal?

Oh I'll post pictures, believe you me... I doubt I'll document the whole process given how mind-numbingly tedious prep work will be, but definitely before/after shots.

Unfortunately, the park rangers took the cow for use in bear/lion traps and whatnot... The price I pay for reporting the incident.

The good news is that the frame damage I experienced (where the bumper bracket punched in the frame rail) should be easy to fix, and Terry over at Rigid said it was likely that simply attaching the driver-side mounting plate will straighten it out (starting with the rearmost factory bumper mount bolt, pulling it flush with the rest of the frame rail). The bumper's not ready yet, but he offered to get the mounting system finished and shipped out in the next couple days so I can get a head-start on the body work.

 

[HMGanja]

Sounds good, keep up the good work. Damn authorities...

 

[dieselenthusiast]

subscribing.........

 

[anthrax323]

Well, I've bought a new DD, and have finally received and painted my Rigid FbG (with the bolt-on BG11). The teardown has begun.

 

[anthrax323]

Well, there has been some progress...

I sheared my lower steering box bolt when removing it, and found the factory spacer was seized to the steering box as a result of that, so I ordered a C-Rok spacer considering it'll be an upgrade as well. Not sure when it'll get in, but I'm hoping soon.

The radiator support baffle repair was actually far smoother than anticipated. There were only 6 spot welds holding the piece in.

Out with the old...

And in with the new:

After much deliberation, I decided to simply drill out the old spot welds so I could rosette/plug weld the new piece into place:

All in all it went surprisingly smoothly, and by Saturday night I had everything back together for body panel fitment/alignment checks.

Now I'm mounting the Rigid bulkhead reinforcements and getting ready to install a dual circuit oil cooler to serve as both a transmission and power steering cooler. Just need to decide on how the hoses will be routed to ensure that they won't be cut in the event of another front impact.

There should be far more updates over the next few days (as I'm also putting in an order for Rough Country drop brackets, in addition to the RE track bar bracket and brace). It's amazing how easy it is to pour money into this damn thing.

 

[anthrax323]

Well, things are slowly marching along... Almost done with the painting, and managed to knock out the V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade (opted for all new components but stuck with the XJ drag link given the same strength, but better fit), as well as a new steering pump, steering gear, and RE drop pitman arm (about 3/4" of drop - slightly reduced the extreme passenger-side drag link TRE angle).

I also welded up some 1/8" steel strap brackets for my transmission/power steering cooler:

I'm thinking that sadly I'm probably going to go with barbed fittings and the stock transmission lines for now, as I can't justify nearly $300 in plumbing for this project.

 

[anthrax323]

Woot. Barbed fittings arrive sometime today (whenever FedEx decides to show up), and I bought a 25' spool of 3/8" TOC hose from AutoZone (apparently a first for those guys - they had no idea how to ring up the whole spool). I figured it's wise to have extra, as I'll likely need it again.

I'll take some pics, but here's what's been done thus far:

• Vacuum canister has been relocated to the driver side of the engine bay near the firewall (right beside the brake booster and master). To simplify plumbing, I removed the tee fitting at the cruise control module and stuck it directly onto the line that runs along the firewall. At the source of that line (the rearmost port on the intake manifold), I installed another tee and fed the line directly over to the canister's new location. I'm thinking this should work just fine, but we'll see.
• New fender and front fairing have been painted and clearcoated. Waiting til tomorrow to mount and wet sand/polish them. Never using Duplicolor again, though (pain in the ass, especially black).
• Transmission/steering cooler brackets have been painted, currently drying.
• New power steering pump has been installed. Broke the hub on the old one trying to pull it, so I'm picking up a new one at the dealership today (no need for an overdrive pulley with my 30s).

Next steps will be to order new leaf spring bushings and JKS shackles... Unfortunately, this will net nearly another 1.5" of lift, so I'll likely be picking up some JKS ACOS coil pads/spacers for the front (not the Pros - too expensive) as well as the full RE track bar/brace system.

Pictures and further updates will come soon.

 

[anthrax323]

Went to the bar last night, and got home rather late... But a buddy insisted on staying up and helping me align the body panels:

We eventually called it quits at around 3:15 AM (my dumb ass kept drinking, so I'm quite surprised we didn't screw anything up).

A daylight shot of the progress:

So freaking close I can taste it.

Only problem is that the "new" power steering pump I bought from Advance Auto is leaking... It appears as though the leak is where the reservoir mates with the pump, however, I replaced the "new" reservoir with my old one to no avail... This evening I plan to pull it off (yet again) and re-seat the reservoir with some RTV for good measure. If it *still* leaks after that, I'm taking the damn thing back and buying either an OE unit or something from O'Reilly.

 

[iluv83vettes]

I must have missed it, but what crossmember are you running on there with those bolts. Forgive me if it is stock, it looks different than an old one.

 

[anthrax323]

I must have missed it, but what crossmember are you running on there with those bolts. Forgive me if it is stock, it looks different than an old one.

That's the Rigidco bumper mounting system (for my FbG).