ticking noise?

i kind of messed up the order of which bearing went where. so i was thinking of buying one STD size one and try it on each crank part to see the clearance? what do u think? what do you suggest?
 
Jeepster....i would PM eagle and ask him....i trust what he says and he ain't steered me wrong yet. I don't want to give you the wrong info....
 
Jeepster4wd said:
im thinking it could be the last rod bearing it seem to be comming from the back. i was suggested to take the spark plug out for cylinder were the bad bearing is belive to be and start it up and if its quiter you found which bearing it is? could this worK? the theory that since the piston isnt under operating presure it wont tick as much and should be quiter??
Click to expand...

I thought you took it to some Jeep specialist dude who was going to tell you what was wrong. Now he wants you to do the diagnosis?

I think you need a second opinion.
 
Jeepster4wd said:
the actual parts should be under 50 buck.
Click to expand...

The oil pan gasket alone is about $50.

I think you said you have looked at some photos or illustrations of how a rod bearing works? Yes, once you get the oil pan off, you unfasten the two bolts holding the rod cap in place and tap the bearing cap loose. If you don't own a brass or plastic hammer, this is the time to buy one. Do NOT go banging around in there with a steel hammer.

The old bearing will be in there. If it's making noise, you may see that it's worn through the bearing material to the copper backing metal, and/or you may find scratches. If the bearing is scored, examine the surface of the crank carefully. If ther are scratches or burrs, to do it right you would remove the crank and have it polished. For a real shade tree job, get some fine crocus cloth and polish it yourself, then be sure you wipe off ALL traces of dirt, dust, lint, etc.

I suppose you can just slap the new bearing in place, but to do it right you should plastigage it to verify the clearance.
 
iv already got all the bearings out and have plastigage :-)

the bearings are warn but the crank is in good condition and so are the pistons,rods overall the engine looks very good. i was exspecting some serious damage when i first took the oil pan out. because it was making a pretty loud noise.

sorry if I didnt make it clear. All the jeep specailist did was look at it. I didnt want them to do anywork because i would rather do it my self then spend like 600-3k on a rebuild which i didnt think it needed only being at 130k miles. So i decided id do my own work . Kragen has the oil pan gasket for 19 bucks. and i orded some new bearing which will arive tomorrow. i will plastiqage them tommorrow and see what the distance is. Yea i never used any metal hammer. i used a rubber mallet but didnt work so good so I just used my hands and pryed it open. most opened pretty easy. The very back bearing is warn the most which were the noise was comming from. if this doesnt fix it i dont know what it could be. mabey that flex plate you were talking about... but im pretty sure this will fix it.
 
ok well all the gaps are under .003 so i jsut went with .001 bearings. that much gap shouldn't cause this loud noise should it? im getting worried that this isnt the problem and it something else ????? i took of my rear main bearing. and have no idea how u swap the top bearing? thiers quite large scratch into the bearing not sure if its supost to go thier or not. i havn't found anything that could of made that horrible noise. how much gap does it require to create that loud ticking/clacking noise i kept hearing. from the bottom of the motor.
 
a pretty loud ticking/clanking noise. Eagle what do u recomend i check? I read somewere abotu a flex plate or something?? how do I check that?
 
look the bearing where it fits to the crank is supposed to be smooth....if you got a large scratch on the crank side of the bearing then that is what is likely the cause of your problem. The flex plate could also be the problem BUT you are already into this job so it wont hurt. Did you check the rod bearings by chance?? I might be wrong but i believe the bearings need to be ALMOST a close fit. After all they help build oil pressure so you don't want large gaps. Did you notice loss of oil pressure??
 
yeah. all of them are in the tollerable range. I went with .001's for all of them so they will be between .001-.002. The crank looks very good no scratches or anything. im going to put all this back together today and start it up and if it still does the ticking clacking noise its gotta be that flexplate?
 
the flexplate/fly wheel would be the next guess. Either that or if it gets worse then the bearings were done wrong...good luck

Daniel
 
my haynes manual says "Main bearing cap bolts torqued to 80 and connecting rod cap nuts 33 ftLBS." Rear main seal i can't find in my book...guess the book got the best of me.
 
well iv got everything back on. i cant find 1 damn oil pan bolt. but other than that iv got everything back on including the starter. worse comes to worse il just go pick up a bolt that fits from ace hardware.
 
ok everythings back together... but the ignition is all fuc*** up. I started it up and it ran like shit im trying to figure out which plug wire goes where! i think i have the ignition in wrong spots or something like that since i wasnt sure were they went and the chilton diagram was made by someone on crack.
 
ok well i think iv got everything on right now. the motor is running rougher i think mabey one of the spark plug wires are messed up and it isnt firing right or something and im still getting the noise...
so i think it mgiht be the flexplate????
 
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