ticking noise?

i dont think the motor is DONE but mabey jsut a rod bearing? hopefully a cheap fix. you think i could get to it with out taking the motor off? im going to try draining the oil than take the pan off and see if i see if i can swap in a bearing.
 
oic. so it is acessible from under neath? is the rod bearing a bearing or just a piece of metal? i was looking at pictures of it and it looked like a flat piece of metal.
 
it is a "bearing" but in 2 pieces. it is accessible from underneath but you got to pull your pan off to get to it and that is a PIA to do if you don't have a lifted vehicle or a way to get about 6-8 more inches of room to move under there. I have to replace the rod and main bearings along with the crank shaft. I can't do it and the shop wants $1300 to do it so my heep is really a HEEP now
 
im thinking it could be the last rod bearing it seem to be comming from the back. i was suggested to take the spark plug out for cylinder were the bad bearing is belive to be and start it up and if its quiter you found which bearing it is? could this worK? the theory that since the piston isnt under operating presure it wont tick as much and should be quiter??
 
BUT would you not get misfiring and the likes.......the only true way to determine which if any are bad is to pull the pan and look at ALL the rod bearings....according to EAGLE the rod bearings go before the main bearings but since you are under there do everything if you are gonna do it. The longer you wait to fix the problem the worse it becomes and the more damage it can do. That is of course just my opinion and experience.

Daniel
 
yea im suprised my bearings went out so quickly motor isnt that old. my jeep is stock so its going to be fun working under it...

im gonig to jack it up as much ass possiblethough. im just waiting for it to kool down. its like 110 degrees here. :-(
 
Well it is a pain to remove the oil pan and i would only suggest you doing a job like this if and only if you don't require this to be a DD bc it will take you SEVERAL days to do this job right. From pulling the pan agian to replacing the ROD and MAIN bearings to buttoning up agian. I am not a mechanic but i watched all this done to my heep and do not envy you. i suggest you get your jeep WAY high bc you are gonna need it.

GOOD LUCK

Daniel
 
it was my DD but i dont need to go anywere so it can be worked on for weeks if need be. the actual parts should be under 50 buck. iv heard the oil pan can be b****. so after i take the pan off i undo the 2 rod bolts and the bearing should come out if its still in thier and slap a new one in right?
 
Have you only had one opinion about whats wrong? Never go with just one, seems that half of diagnostics if Florida seems to be opinion and guesstimation. This is an example I've got to share cause this little shit gave me alot of lip about how I had wronged him, he didnt have to pay, he was going to call his lawyer(I always tell them the public defender doesnt do civil cases), etc. I had a customer wanted me to reposses his 91 saturn because it wouldnt run. He didnt know why it wouldnt run, just stated that it wouldnt run and he "couldnt keep putting money into it" (people usually say this the first time their 10 year old car they bought 6 months ago has a problem). I convinced him that it would be in his best interest to have it checked out by a mechanic. The first one he took it to said it had a blown motor. So he towed it back to his apartment and called me to come pick it up/reposses it. It took about an hour for me to do a compressions test, ignition test, then test the fuel system and find the fuel wasn't pumping. It cost me $80 for a pump and $10 for a filter. I charged him $225. ( $80 cost on the pump installed in the tank,$10 cost on the filter, towed it from his apartment, tightened the cam bearings( some reason the previous mech had loosened all of the cam bearings on both cam's), put on the valve cover, reinstalled all the crap the previous mech had disconnected, etc.) Called the customer and told him to pick up his car. Bottom line of my rant (please forgive me, its fricken stressful) is.....Even if it was diagnosed by an expert go find another expert opinion just to be safe.
 
you have a very good point. My dad knows quite abit about motors and said the same thing what the jeep specailist said so its more than likly that. thats were the noise is comming from. so it narrows down were it could be. but i think il call up some shops and see what they have to say. im trying to find a good shop because i hear alot of shops around here arnt very good.
 
by all means, get a second opinion. I thought you had been checking around. i ain't a mechanic....just tellin you by experience....BUT shops can't diagnose a problem with out inspecting a vehicle or actually hearing the sound so go find one that will check it out for free and let you stay around for the trouble shooting process. I deal with two shops and they both let me in the garage area (i don't hold em liable for injuries) and i am right there next to the mechanic. Let us know what they say.

Daniel
 
aight well iv taken the oil pan off and everything looks pretty good. cylinder walls and such look brand new still. but the rod bearings have side to side play is this normal? also who designed that oil pan? it had like 3 differnt bolt sizes and depths lol. but it did come off after i took the start off and oil pump. i thought it would of been alot worst but it looks pretty good overall from visual inspection so FAR. is thier any special way to get off the parts to the rod bearings? i un did the 2 bolts holding it on but it is difficult to remove u have any tips???


thanks for the help.



Robert.
 
Small Hammer

The rod bearing cap is split in two and should break apart fairly easily. Use a small hammer and LIGHTLY tap from several side angles. Should pull apart easy after it breaks. I don't think that side to side slop is necessarily a bad thing. It is the radial slop that kills ya. Study up and get some plastigage strips. Take your time and do the job as right as you can and make that Jeep humm for another 130 K. GOOD LUCK !!
 
it tells you how much wear there is so on the rod (i believe) so that you can get the proper fitting bearing. I am not quite sure though..some one will set me straight if i am wrong
 
this is what was told to me......
A package of precise plastic 'wires' of fine diameter. About $8 at any autoparts store.

Insert one into the space between bearing and journal and tighten the bearing cap to spec.
Do this for each bearing.
Tightening the bearing bolts will flatten the plastigauge. How much it is flattened identifies the space between journal and bearing.
Remove cap and compare the width of the flattened pastigauge to the chart on the package
 
oh ic. your trying to found out how much the crank has warn and you measure the distance what what ever the distance space is that how much bigger of a bearing you get right?
 
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