Those that have hockey puck bump stops, how many? Drill or Glue?

[XJensen]

RE4.5 lift with three pucks bolted. easier to get the coils off if you unbolt the pucks

 

[barillms]

It takes me 5 or 10 mins to take my coil out of eitherside of my jeep in a gravel driveway, coilspring compressor tool a jack and a few other sockets and what not and bam!

You don't need coil compressor to remove the coils.
Let the suspension droop, coil comes out.
I can take 9" coils out without one, not hard... just some creative jacking.

 

[barillms]

Extended upper tube & bump & lower pucks
with Rustys 9" coils trimmed. You only need a few inches of uptravel (unless you like your tires jamming into your fender wells & stopping all forward progress).

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Lift hieght has nothing to do with bumpstopping, shock lenth and amount of fender trimming does.

Depends on the amount of lift.

1 puck for every 1.5" of lift or so.

So for 4.5" lift, use 3 pucks.... u get it.

Black tape the pucks together heavily.
Put them in the vise, drill a center hole.

Choose your bolt size/ length you need & nut.

Remove the coil spring, in the center of the coil bucket drill a hole.
Recess a nut into the hole, make sure it's square & flat. Tack weld the nut into place not damaging the threads. If the nut sticks up some, grind it flush with a flap wheel.

Put the puck stack inside the coil.
Install the coil. Trap the coil.
Now thread the bolt into the "nutsert" and tighten the puck stack down.

Done.

 

[FleXJ96]

I put 3 in the front last night, I will try it out tonight and see if 3 is good or I can go down to 2. Also in the theme of Saving money, I used a puck in the rear on my new plates with a old bumpstop off my Truck on top . Looks like it should work well.

Let the suspension droop, coil comes out.

On short arms, not so much. Have to unbolt the sways, LCA and TRack....

 

[Vanimal]

i would have counterbored the top puck so that the bolt head was reccessed. it's going to tear up the bump stop in no tome.

 

[FleXJ96]

Good call, it's slightly recessed now, I just need to test make sure it works, then I will recess it all the way.

 

[87manche]

if you freeze the pucks they are easier to drill, the bit doesn't get grabby so much. might make countersinking that hole easier.

 

[barillms]

Lift hieght has nothing to do with bumpstopping, shock lenth and amount of fender trimming does.

What??????????
Why the hell do you need longer shocks?
Because of the amount of lift!

That's the most illogical post I've ever seen.

1. The amount of lift increases the distance between the factory bump stops.
2. Therefore you must DECREASE that distance so the bump stops make contact. (PUCKS)
3. More lift = more uptravel.... BUMPSTOPS STOP UPTRAVEL. Limiting straps stop downtravel.
4. More lift = longer/more bumpstopping.
4. It has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with shocks whatsoever. Don't post false info.

 

[barillms]

i would have counterbored the top puck so that the bolt head was reccessed. it's going to tear up the bump stop in no tome.

I heat the head of the bolt, when tightened down it counter-bores itself.

 

[87manche]

I would say that tire size,fender trimming and shock travel has more to do with it than lift height.

the goal is to keep from bottoming out the shocks, or stuffing a tire into the fender. Aside from those reasons you wouldn't even need bumpstops. I haven't had extended bumpstops for a long time @ 4" of lift and 35's. Mostly because I don't have too much fender left for a tire to hit, and my shocks are sized so that the factory bumpstop keeps them from bottoming out.

 

[Vanimal]

What??????????
Why the hell do you need longer shocks?
Because of the amount of lift!

That's the most illogical post I've ever seen.

1. The amount of lift increases the distance between the factory bump stops.
2. Therefore you must DECREASE that distance so the bump stops make contact. (PUCKS)
3. More lift = more uptravel.... BUMPSTOPS STOP UPTRAVEL. Limiting straps stop downtravel.
4. More lift = longer/more bumpstopping.
4. It has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with shocks whatsoever. Don't post false info.

it has everything to do with shock length (expanded/collapsed), shock mounting, the % of droop desired, and tire clearance. people who base it on how much lift they have simply do not have the knowledge to figure it out correctly based on their setup.
Don't post false info.

 

[FleXJ96]

Here is the flex test:

So the pucks worked and got me right to the fender lip, with a catch...

The Catch being is the stock upper bump stop compressed all the flat like a pancake, so not sure how long that will last.... Think I need a stronger upper.

Anther issue is still tire width, it hits the body and I can not turn when it's tucked:

he rear didn't touch with this incline , but when I stacked on Another Jeep;s 33 w/o the stop, I actually cut my rear tire, so i need a steeper incline to test the rear.

 

[sunburned]

You're going to have a really tough time trying to get the front upper and lower bumpstops to line up perfectly. Just accept it like it is for now, it should work. Eventually the upper tube will just hit the hockey pucks and that won't matter as long as you're going just crawling. High speed whoops is a whole nother ball game.

As far as rubbing the body with the tire, get a hammer and go to work. I'm assuming you already flattened the pinch seam? The only way to really fix this rubbing issue is to move the front axle forward and you can't do that with your stock arms.

In the rear, that setup just isn't going to work. Daystar sells a 4" long bumpstop for the rear that goes on the frame side in place of the stock piece. Then your puck 'extensions' might work, but I'd recommend adjustable bumpstop plates from DPG or getting someone to weld a piece of 2x2" to your stock u-bolt plates.

 

[Breezio69]

In your number 1 pic above it looks like you will need quite a bit more in the back. Id venture to say +2-3" more. Your about 2 inches away from the frame, tire is about an inch from gettin sliced up, take in to account the bumpstop is going to squish up a little bit. Front looks fine, as said before, fold the front pinch seam and beat the crap out of where its rubbing. Or get some adjustable arms and push it forward 1/2 inch or so

 

[FleXJ96]

I'd recommend adjustable bumpstop plates from DPG

Those are extended plates, I think just few more pucks will do it. I know it's ghetto but my wife is going to kill me if I keeping dumping money into this thing.

Pinch seem in front has been flattened, but I will see if I can make some more room in the back. Those are the RC Fixed LCAs, so yes some adjustables will help me and prob be the next move. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Vanimal]

Those are extended plates, I think just few more pucks will do it. I know it's ghetto but my wife is going to kill me if I keeping dumping money into this thing.

Pinch seem in front has been flattened, but I will see if I can make some more room in the back. Those are the RC Fixed LCAs, so yes some adjustables will help me and prob be the next move. Thanks for all the suggestions.

In Soviet Slovakia, bump stop is made from baseball.

 

[rockclimber]

What??????????
Why the hell do you need longer shocks?
Because of the amount of lift!

That's the most illogical post I've ever seen.

1. The amount of lift increases the distance between the factory bump stops.
2. Therefore you must DECREASE that distance so the bump stops make contact. (PUCKS)
3. More lift = more uptravel.... BUMPSTOPS STOP UPTRAVEL. Limiting straps stop downtravel.
4. More lift = longer/more bumpstopping.
4. It has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with shocks whatsoever. Don't post false info.

You are a tard..

Lift height has nothing to do with suspension travel. I only have 4" of height, but I have 11.5" of travel. 6" up and 5.5" down.

Those numbers only exist because of the length of shock I run. Really, I could have 4 more inches of uptravel before my axle eats the oil pan.
However, that 4" isn't available to me due to the tire/inner fender issue and the shock being mounted too low.
Once I get around to it, I will open up the inner and outer fenders, run a hoop for a longer shock, and get that uptravel back.

Lift height ( or ride height) only matters to the amount of bumpstop you run based on tire size and shock length. If I had the same length shocks and the same size tire but 2 more inches of lift, my bumpstops wouldn't change.

 

[sunburned]

You are a tard..

Lift height has nothing to do with suspension travel. I only have 4" of height, but I have 11.5" of travel. 6" up and 5.5" down.

Those numbers only exist because of the length of shock I run. Really, I could have 4 more inches of uptravel before my axle eats the oil pan.
However, that 4" isn't available to me due to the tire/inner fender issue and the shock being mounted too low.
Once I get around to it, I will open up the inner and outer fenders, run a hoop for a longer shock, and get that uptravel back.

Lift height ( or ride height) only matters to the amount of bumpstop you run based on tire size and shock length. If I had the same length shocks and the same size tire but 2 more inches of lift, my bumpstops wouldn't change.

Shut up, you're both right. Obviously like he said, the more lift you need, the more bumpstop you probably need. Unless you have a desert racer with a shit ton of travel and hydro bumps that are only 2" long.

Bumpstop length has to do with everything on your suspension. Lift height, shock travel, shock placement, spring rate, etc. As a whole, the internet can only give suggestions and guidance on how to make good bumpstops and where to put them, but the height they contact is soley up to the person building the rig. Of course you use them to prevent tire/body contact, axle engine contact, shock bottoming, maxing out steering links/u-joints, etc.

Quit bitching when you're both saying the same thing.

 

[whitexj98]

I heat the head of the bolt, when tightened down it counter-bores itself.

Sounds like it would be a pain to get a socket on there as it tightens up....