LilRedRover
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia
Blew my 99 4.0 with 115k blah blah blah, acquired a 98 4.0 with about 80k on it. What do I need to know before I dive into switching em out beginning of the week?
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Things to Watch for in Engine Swap
- Thread starter LilRedRover
- Start date
LilRedRover
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia
top, any things I wouldn't know? I already know about the two 12 point torx heads at the top of the bellhousing, we have a special snapon wrench for it, but what else.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Should not be any difference between the 98 and 99, 00 was the spark plug rail and no distributor setup. About the only difference I can picture *might* be plugs on the harness *maybe*. Before I stuck the new engine in though I'd do the O rings on the oil filter mounting boss.
Someone here also had an issue with a new exhaust manifold not fitting correctly with bolts, about a month or two ago, I just remember him not being able to get a seal on a couple of the ports, he had pics too...it was supposed to be a direct fit manifold and as I think about it the flange was either thinner or thicker than what came off, forget which now. Sorry, thats about all I can think of at the moment..
Actually while you have it out I'd also replace all the freeze plugs with brass ones, easy to do now, harder later. Give the engine the once over and look at it from the perspective of having to do it with the engine in, pay attention to the oil gallery plug on the back of the block, the one thats covered by the bell housing, if there is ANY oil back there or even greasy dirt I'd replace that one in a hearbeat. Might even be a good time to stick a block heater in there, easy now, hard later...
Someone here also had an issue with a new exhaust manifold not fitting correctly with bolts, about a month or two ago, I just remember him not being able to get a seal on a couple of the ports, he had pics too...it was supposed to be a direct fit manifold and as I think about it the flange was either thinner or thicker than what came off, forget which now. Sorry, thats about all I can think of at the moment..
Actually while you have it out I'd also replace all the freeze plugs with brass ones, easy to do now, harder later. Give the engine the once over and look at it from the perspective of having to do it with the engine in, pay attention to the oil gallery plug on the back of the block, the one thats covered by the bell housing, if there is ANY oil back there or even greasy dirt I'd replace that one in a hearbeat. Might even be a good time to stick a block heater in there, easy now, hard later...
Last edited:
bigwhitey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brunswick, ME.
I just swapped in a re-manufactured engine this weekend.
Label your injector wires before you remove them.
Set engine to TDC, Mark your disributor rotor position before removing and label wire number one on cap. Then set new engine to TDC and install the same way.
Be sure not to move the CPS on top of the bell housing or it will not run.
It takes two people to line up the engine and tranny. Be carefull not to crush any lines on top of tranny when aligning.
Check your exhaust manifold for cracks before reinstalling (My Banks header had multiple cracks on the inborad side)
Be carefulll with the bolts holding down the AC, Ishould of chased them but I snapped a bolt instead.
Check or just go ahead and replace engine mounts and tranny mount.
Good luck
Mine should be running some time today after I reset the distributor and Injector wires.
Label your injector wires before you remove them.
Set engine to TDC, Mark your disributor rotor position before removing and label wire number one on cap. Then set new engine to TDC and install the same way.
Be sure not to move the CPS on top of the bell housing or it will not run.
It takes two people to line up the engine and tranny. Be carefull not to crush any lines on top of tranny when aligning.
Check your exhaust manifold for cracks before reinstalling (My Banks header had multiple cracks on the inborad side)
Be carefulll with the bolts holding down the AC, Ishould of chased them but I snapped a bolt instead.
Check or just go ahead and replace engine mounts and tranny mount.
Good luck
Mine should be running some time today after I reset the distributor and Injector wires.
LilRedRover
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia
Thanks guys, I was planning on all those things, I'm just checking to see if their is anything I forgot.
bigwhitey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brunswick, ME.
Plugs, wires, cap & rotor
2 new oil filters
12 quarts of oil
190* Thermostat
50/50 premix antifreeze
Engine install gasket kit (Intake/exhaust, valvecover, thermostat, water pump etc.)
New o-ring seals and clips for the fuel lines at the rail (dealer)
breather valves and grommets for top of valve cover (dealer)
Engine paint and tape???
Engine degreaser / cleaner, I ran by the DIY car wash before I started.
Bleed the fuel rail to get any air out before starting.
Burp the cooling system by squeezing the top hose to get excess air out.
2 new oil filters
12 quarts of oil
190* Thermostat
50/50 premix antifreeze
Engine install gasket kit (Intake/exhaust, valvecover, thermostat, water pump etc.)
New o-ring seals and clips for the fuel lines at the rail (dealer)
breather valves and grommets for top of valve cover (dealer)
Engine paint and tape???
Engine degreaser / cleaner, I ran by the DIY car wash before I started.
Bleed the fuel rail to get any air out before starting.
Burp the cooling system by squeezing the top hose to get excess air out.
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
LilRedRover said:
How did you blow the engine? The 4.0 should go 200+k miles without needing a rebuild.
LilRedRover
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Virginia
Dr. Dyno said:
Haven't opened the old motor up yet, I'll let you know though. I was going down the interstate cruising at an easy 65-70 and it let go. Maybe oil pump :dunno: