- Location
- Southern Maryland
With two flat surfaces you should not need anything except the paper gasket. I had to use RTV on my old setup because nothing was flat, but dont need anything since replacing the engine and housing.
Thermostat housing and rtv
- Thread starter austinandtina
- Start date
austinandtina
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
I bought a 6 dollar tiny tube of rtv thermostat silicone way too much money lol
Rick Anderson
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lusby, MD
Like mentioned, you need to sand both sides of the mating surface to make sure they are as flat as possible, remove high spots created by corrosion, etc.
For the RTV to work properly (and the anti-freeze resistant grey RTV silicone you bought is the best one for the job).
*Both sides have to be cleaned of dirt, corrosion and contaminants. (i.e. sand and clean it).
*Both sides have to be dry and free of contaminants (I use brake cleaner when I can).
*You have 5 minutes after applying the bead to one surface to mate it to the other, to get it to adhere and cure to the other surface as well as the one you applied the bead.
*Once the parts are together, tighten the bolts only finger tight (this will get rtv down to a thin gasket layer, but NOT force all of it out at some high spots.
*Leave it for an hour to cure (that will let the thin layer cure and NOT get forced out when you torque down the parts).
*After an hour to cure, torque the bolts properly.
Obviously temperature effects cure times, the instructions assume this is done at room temp, allow more time for colder, less for hot.
The thickness of the RTV Silicone will effect cure time, the thin layer between the parts, that is essential will cure much faster than the bead of excess that was squeezed out around the edges. So don't get wrapped around the axle about the bead of excess around the edge NOT being fully cured after 24 hours. Usually after an hour it should be cured enough to be put into use, but considering the difficulties you've been having, I would wait a full 24 hours after doing a proper job before using it.
For the RTV to work properly (and the anti-freeze resistant grey RTV silicone you bought is the best one for the job).
*Both sides have to be cleaned of dirt, corrosion and contaminants. (i.e. sand and clean it).
*Both sides have to be dry and free of contaminants (I use brake cleaner when I can).
*You have 5 minutes after applying the bead to one surface to mate it to the other, to get it to adhere and cure to the other surface as well as the one you applied the bead.
*Once the parts are together, tighten the bolts only finger tight (this will get rtv down to a thin gasket layer, but NOT force all of it out at some high spots.
*Leave it for an hour to cure (that will let the thin layer cure and NOT get forced out when you torque down the parts).
*After an hour to cure, torque the bolts properly.
Obviously temperature effects cure times, the instructions assume this is done at room temp, allow more time for colder, less for hot.
The thickness of the RTV Silicone will effect cure time, the thin layer between the parts, that is essential will cure much faster than the bead of excess that was squeezed out around the edges. So don't get wrapped around the axle about the bead of excess around the edge NOT being fully cured after 24 hours. Usually after an hour it should be cured enough to be put into use, but considering the difficulties you've been having, I would wait a full 24 hours after doing a proper job before using it.
Crfrider
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long island new york
black hi temp rtv and don't be afraid to use to much clean the rest off after never look back. should take 5 min tops
iwannadie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Az
I would be afraid to use too much, if its seeping outside just think of how much is seeping inside. You don't really want RTV clogging up your cooling system or thermostat. I would use it sparingly and not glob it on there and think the excess can just be wiped away.
austinandtina
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
Well I drove the jeep to work today an hour and half drive and no leaks. Awesome..but my aux fan wasn't working so I had to hardwire it for now until I get done with work then il throw it on a toggle. But even now with a 180 degree thermostat when I come to a stop the temp jumps to about 200
Mega Fattie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, AZ
Keep the overflow full, and everytime the jeep cools off top off the radiator with coolant.
Throw in a Zj fan clutch if you havent. They work well.
Throw in a Zj fan clutch if you havent. They work well.
austinandtina
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
Okay bud
austinandtina
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
Ok well let it cool and went to open radiator cap and I had pressure built up air still in system?
should have kept the 195. 180 is not hot enough. Your mileage is going to suffer.
installing a lower temp thermostat does not magically fix cooling issues. The thermostats job is to keep heat in the motor.
if your temp spikes when stopped, suspect the fan clutch.
if it overheats going down the highway suspect a flow issue in the radiator or pump.
austinandtina
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
You know I was thinking fan clutch but it has no play back and fourth so that's why I didn't even bother
the play will come from the shaft and bearing that it's attached to. End play is not how to check the fan clutch.
You get it warm and feel how stiff it is. If the fan rotates easily and freely the clutch is toast.
buy the hayden replacement. Made in the US, good part of OEM quality. Only about $5 more than the china one.
You get it warm and feel how stiff it is. If the fan rotates easily and freely the clutch is toast.
buy the hayden replacement. Made in the US, good part of OEM quality. Only about $5 more than the china one.
austinandtina
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- illinois
Well guys it's working good now have had no issues after releasing the air build up.
Rick Anderson
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lusby, MD
The test for viscous fan clutch, with the engine off, grab a blade of the fan and try to fling it to get the fan to spin under its own momentum. If it can make more than a full turn under its own momentum, the clutch is bad.
Having had a bad viscous clutch (the spring was gone in the front as well, that alone means it won't work properly and contribute greatly to overheating), that would fail the test with more than a full turn under its own momentum. A brand new clutch won't turn at all when you release the fan blade, that clutch is suppose to put up a lot of resistance. Honestly, for myself, if that fan moved more than a few degrees under its own momentum I would replace the clutch.
Having had a bad viscous clutch (the spring was gone in the front as well, that alone means it won't work properly and contribute greatly to overheating), that would fail the test with more than a full turn under its own momentum. A brand new clutch won't turn at all when you release the fan blade, that clutch is suppose to put up a lot of resistance. Honestly, for myself, if that fan moved more than a few degrees under its own momentum I would replace the clutch.
thanasi85
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sacramento, CA
I have replaced a lot of water pumps and thermostats over the years. I always make sure the surfaces have been scraped clean and are dry first, I then use RTV water pump gasket maker and apply it to both sides of the gasket and after installing I always let it sit for at least a few hours before adding coolant and have never had an issue with leaking.
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