The Yeti

[freerider15]

Nope, I voted for Justin.

If I change my screen name to Abstain do I get to takeover that vote count?

I voted for you, so we're even :laugh:

I've got to make some new brake lines on the blue jeep.

Seeing as how they route around the back, I'd almost contemplate doing braided lines instead of dealing with trying to route hard line over to the passenger side again.

 

[Kittrell]

Getting there. Still need to finish the brake lines, swap back to my shorter bent tie rod, put fluid in things, mount the shocks, adjust the front uppers to push the pinion up, trim and install flat flares, figure out the tire carrier, buy and mount rock sliders, install the front bumper (still in FoCo). That's mostly it.

 

[md21722]

Have you installed cup holders yet?

 

[Kittrell]

It's on the list, I plan to go the custom route.

 

[DutchVDub]

It looks good.

What's up with the tie rod, did they send you the wrong one?

 

[ThatGrimmJeeper]

It's on the list, I plan to go the custom route.

You can do better than that. Here's one a guy made for his full size Jeep out of an oil filter:

http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12429&p=138919&hilit=cup#p138919

 

[smokeyyank]

I'm more of a fan of these types of cup holders.....

 

[md21722]

I'm more of a fan of these types of cup holders.....

Those cup holders are too small. Won't fit a big gulp.

 

[Kittrell]

It looks good.

What's up with the tie rod, did they send you the wrong one?

I forgot about an issue that I ran into back in 2005. The WJ knuckle arm is almost flush with the hub face, while the XJ knuckle arm is set in quite a bit. It makes the space between knuckle arms about an 1" or so more narrow than the WJ. So a tie rod made for a WJ swap won't adjust down enough. I had a custom tie rod made back in the day to solve this.

 

[Kittrell]

This took long enough to show up. The Jeep might actually be road worthy by next weekend.

 

[md21722]

Oh man should've gotten the master cool hydraulic tool if you were gonna wait. You can rent the above style from Auto Zone for free. If you use Ni-Cop line you can bend it by hand. You can buy rolls of it from Amazon and Auto Zone sells straight lengths of it too.

 

[Kittrell]

The hydraulic version is also like $300, this one will do the trick.

 

[Hypoid]

Taiwan>China.

 

[Kittrell]

These turned out better than I thought they would. They aren't that pretty, but if they don't leak, I don't care! I know the orientation is not ideal, but the lines are plenty long so it should be fine. Still trying to sort out my tie rod. My last call is in to Clayton, hopefully they don't let me down.

 

[md21722]

Cool.

 

[Kittrell]

The rear is fixed. If any of these leak I am going to burn this thing to the ground. Not sure who put this 8.8 together but the hard lines had two different sized fittings.

P.S. These things cut through the frame like butter. If you're using anything else you are working too hard.

 

[Kittrell]

So shocks are too long, yay, time to spend more money. Help me out here. Static height eye to eye is about 20". Front and rear BPE's, 5/8" rear lower stud, stem front. Bilstein 5100's, what do I need?

I am thinking around here:

Setting: 5100 Series
Position: Front
*Collapsed Length (IN): 16.97
*Extended Length (IN): 28.44


Part Number: 33-151663
Setting: 5100 Series
Position: Rear
*Collapsed Length (IN): 15.91
*Extended Length (IN): 25.93

I forgot to write down the model #'s for what I have now.

 

[Kittrell]

Okay, I got the model #'s from my shocks.

24-185622 - Front
Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber
Collapsed Length (IN): 15.91
Extended Length (IN): 25.93
Travel Length (IN): 10.02

33-151632 - Rear
Bilstein 5100 Series Shock Absorber
Collapsed Length (IN): 15.91
Extended Length (IN): 25.93
Travel Length (IN): 10.02

So the problem is that rear shock is the same spec as what I thought I need. Is the collapsed length of a 5100 not with the shaft fully inserted into the body? Based on those numbers sitting at 20" static I should have roughly 4" of up travel before that shaft is "collapsed", but on the vehicle right now, I only have about 1.5" of shaft exposed. As it is right now a speed bump would bottom out my rear shocks and just about my fronts as well.

 

[DutchVDub]

Is this on the passenger side only? I'm going to be cutting off and reclocking my passenger side rear shock mount because with the axle rotated up like it is my shock is too long.

 

[Kittrell]

It's both sides. My perches were welded at the proper angle (8.8 swap) so the shock mounts are level.