The Wishbone MIGHT work! lotza PICS

So far that has been my favorate example. I like the 4link better then then wishbone. the Wish bone I was mostly interested in the frame mounts for the upper arms.

I dont have much room with my big Th400 auto, drive shaft on one side and exhaust on the other.

This is the best pic of his links I found while searching yesterday.
t_flopsized_501.jpg


I'll go on XJdb and search some more I forgot to check there...
 
Weasel said:
so hows the project coming ashman? and were did Beezil disappear off to?
Click to expand...

Its leading into more project. Drivetrain wise its great. The 350 on propane the 400 and 203-205 are sweet but the weight is killing my old leafspring design...since saturdays bent leafs I diging up front 4link desings... so more down time for me.
I have some video in my build up thread where it bent my leaf on not a tough trail.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642
 
Weasel said:
so hows the project coming ashman? and were did Beezil disappear off to?
Click to expand...

He has gone back to his ways when he was just a wee youngin. Cry's and pisses his pants nowdays.
 
Ash- Billy should have all the pics I've posted. If you need more for some ideas, let me know. It's a tight fit, but I think it is worth the effort.

-Jon
 
Kaczman said:
Ash- Billy should have all the pics I've posted. If you need more for some ideas, let me know. It's a tight fit, but I think it is worth the effort.
-Jon
Click to expand...

I downloaded all your pictures and measured under my rig last night and Mines even Tighter, With the V8 I have more exhaust issues for the upper frame mounts passenger side. Only 26in long uppers about 40 degrees and about 35in lowers will fit same as yours. 26in links are really short I was hoping to get 16in travel coilovers on it and those short links might not work for that.

Im really worried about heat on the upper frame mount joints. I have my 2.25in exhaust all wrapped in headder wrap but it gets HOT. My passenger floor board gets screamin hot with only a single layer stainless steel tranny tunnel. I was planning to do polly at the frame and heims at the axle for the uppers. yours are all heims, those would hold up better in the heat. I know the polly would melt. I am not going to re-do my exhaust again, If anything Ill upgrade it to large tube and dual exhaust so that clearance will only get worse.

My only option for making the upper links longer is to do a cross member like 2in box tube (removeable with flanges) similar to the long arm kits and mount both the lowers and uppers to the cross tube. Almost the same pivot point like radius arms, same crapy anti lift, but should not bind up like radius arms and 4 links = more then 3 links for material strength.

This weekend I plan to cut off all my leaf brackets weld a jig from the frame to the axle and start the lower links, Even If I do radius arms over the 4link the lower links will be in the same place.
 
Ashman, your rig doesn't strike me as one suited or idealized for high-speed, overall wheel-travel, but rather crawling and articulation. If that's true, you could use a wishbone from the bumper area to the center of the axle. It will do crazy things to the pinion angle if you let the center of the axle travel more than a few inches (I'm guessing 8" would be fine), but would not affect articulation.
 
BrettM said:
Ashman, your rig doesn't strike me as one suited or idealized for high-speed, overall wheel-travel, but rather crawling and articulation. If that's true, you could use a wishbone from the bumper area to the center of the axle. It will do crazy things to the pinion angle if you let the center of the axle travel more than a few inches (I'm guessing 8" would be fine), but would not affect articulation.
Click to expand...

I though of that too.

Id do a parallel 3 link wih panhard bar before that I have room for the upper and lower arms on the drivers side but not the passenger side. Isnt that what you did?

High speed, no, but 45mph on rough roads needs to be able to soak it up.
 
there's absolutely nothing wrong with a 3 link with panhard. a lot of people use them with great results, from comp buggies with full-hydro to street/trail rigs with normal (draglink) steering.

once again, the URF 3-link seems to be the answer. don't fear the panhard. in hindsight I wish I had done a 3 link w/ panhard in the rear of mine rather than a triangulted/wishbone 3 link.
 
I updated my build up thread,
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5877675#post5877675




My lowers are where I want them, the uppers are flexable.


Longer and flat upper link option


Short and angled upper link option

I think the shorter link design is better but only if my drive shaft does not bind up at 10in of drop...

long is the easy option though it might not be as stable and might have some anti lift feal.

What do you think?

Lowers. 2.25in 3/8in DOM 1.25in Rod ends, 1.5in polly
t_000_0005_103.jpg


Uppers 1.5in 125 wall DOM, 7/8in rod ends 1.5in polly
t_000_0007_818.jpg


t_100_1680_125.jpg
 
flexy92xj said:
Had a failure on my upper wishbone link... should have extended the gusseting down to the bushing when I first built the arm... sleeved, welded and more gusseting and its good to go.

Just posting for group benefit... side loads on the wishbone are what I think caused the failure.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2076205130032428117pATWjn
Click to expand...

I disagree yet agree, depending on how you ment this...

As Rockkrawler found out through many broken rear TJ wishbones on thier rear "tri-link" system back some yrs ago...

On the design/setup like you had/have and the very similiar RK setup, the wishbone has such loads also being applied by the unibody rails as well as the rotational torque and the side loads of the axle housing.

Meaning.. The wishbone is acting as a Very solid crossmember that is trying to siffen the rails, and if you know how flexable a XJ can be in the area of the chassis where you have the body side mounts of the wishbone at, you know then how much flex that wishbone is trying to prevent.

Thats with also the axle forces, I would say you ran in to the same exact issues RK did. The wish bone acted like a paper clip, it was flexed one way then another just one to many times, no matter how small it (the flexing) was...

I will say it prolly lasted double what it would have if you used Hiems at the body end at least. The poly was able to deflect some and give to some of the squeezing and pulling apart forces of the chassis.

If you stay with this design I Highly recommend a cross member located right at your body end of the wishbone mounts. This is prohibit the chassis flex from distroying another wishbone or link ends..

Just IMO.... But givin that I personally was a RK failier customer 2 times with thier wishbone and with over a dozen hiems in about 3 months, I have some experience in this.
 
robert, I tried to stiffen the unibody as much as possible with three underbody cross members, but I'm sure there is still a little movement... don't know how much it contributed to the break.

...heres a shot of the brace behind the wishbone body mounts, ties into the brackets for the lower arms.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1099870781032428117rdDHvf


...had to borrow a bunch of ratchet straps that day, 8 in total to locate the axle pretty solidly
 
Just decided to go with a wishbone setup instead of a 4 link... just a choice I made early on not a whole lot of reasoning for choosing one over the other. I am very pleased with how it rides and flexes and is now much beefier after the fix... need some more time to test longevity.
 
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