The Smelly Old Man

[hot_rod_hooligans]

I got another Jeep finally, 96 XJ, 2 door, Sport, Up Country Suspension and skids, but not the entire package, 4.0L, AW4, NP231, HP30, 8.25. The best part? I picked it up for a grand.

This Jeep used to belong to one of the founding members of IndyORV, Gary. Anyone who ran around with us when he was still around will understand the thread title, and why this Jeep will always have an air freshener to hide that "Old Man Smell"

Things may seem slow moving but I've constantly been throwing stuff at it since I got it, fixing little things here and there.

So far the mod list has been:
Thorough tune up
New exhaust: Magnaflow direct fit cat and muffler, new tailpipe, NTK O2 sensor
Optima Blue Top battery
2 gauge welding wire charging, starting, and ground cables
Factory rear tire carrier
Remote start/keyless entry

This Jeep has changed hands a couple of times since he owned it, but it never strayed too far from the club. This thing has it's areas that it's in outstanding condition, and not so much in others. A lot of the problems it has are fairly minor, the interior is pretty gross, but there are no rips or tears and the seats are still pretty comfy. Kind of surprising since it has almost 215k on it. The body has several dents and dings down low(a result of Gary wheeling it I'm sure) but they aren't very noticeable aside from a dented fender, and the paint is in great shape. It runs like a top too.

I have an MJ rock crawler project that I'm also working on(albeit slowly), so this one I've decided to build prerunner/Jeepspeed style. I've even got the fiberglass fenders and quarter panels already, hand-me-downs from changed plans on the MJ project. Since I live in Indiana and we don't have a lot of places to do the go-fast thing, and this is also my DD for the foreseeable future, this build is going to be more show than go, but it will still have a little something to back up the looks.

So here is what I already have, and/or have arrangements to get very shortly:
Custom gas tank skid so I can run a hitch(modified for higher clearance)
00+ 4.0 topend swap with intake and exhaust manifolds, Comp Cams 68-231-4 cam, with upgraded injectors(some form of stroker will happen eventually)
8.8 swap
Bastard pack with MJ leaf springs and shackles
Currie 4" coils
Hannemann Fiberglass fenders/quarters
33"x12.5"R15 BFG All-Terrains
Custom control arms with Metalcloak Duroflex joints
Possibly WJ front brakes/Durango MC, WJ PS pump/Durango box, GC/Durango 136amp alt...... Just because I can, and it would make things easier on the road.

 

[Power73]

do you plan on swapping a 2000-01 head too? the 00-01 heads are known to crack so you might want to look into a little bit older head

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Yeah I've thought about that, I've already got the head and the engine had 185k on it when it broke a piston skirt and cracked a cylinder wall. I was horrible about the coolant system maintanance, every bit of the coolant system was factory, I even submerged the motor in a river after crawling along for some time, that was around 125k, and I didn't have any problems out of it the entire time I had it. I'm going to go out on a limb and use the head. If it becomes a problem I'll get one of the TUPY heads or one of the Hesco Aluminum heads since I do plan on a stroker in the future.

The other reason for the 0331 head is the exhaust port shape will match up to the manifold properly, putting manifolds that don't match the shape of the ports can sometimes greatly effect airflow and power, something I'm trying to improve with the newer top end and port and polish work on the head.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Any thoughts on SUA? Recommendations on how to achieve about 4-4.5" of lift going SUA? I was thinking about something like Hell Creek MJ 4.5" leafs? If my math is correct, that SOA/SUA is about 5", and iirc putting MJ leafs under an XJ SOA would net about 5"....

 

[Will_Beck]

Why spring under? From what i understand on an XJ, it's really just more of a headache that it's worth for a DD truck. Especially if you don't want to be cutting into a whole bunch of stuff.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

I really don't mind cutting/fabbing, I don't mind the work, compared to what I'm going through bobbing the bed on my MJ, this would be easy.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

I've got a buddy with a set of these, and a buddy that can use them to make a version of them that would suit my needs, should work great for my front spring perch.

 

[chris420]

Yeah I've thought about that, I've already got the head and the engine had 185k on it when it broke a piston skirt and cracked a cylinder wall. I was horrible about the coolant system maintanance, every bit of the coolant system was factory, I even submerged the motor in a river after crawling along for some time, that was around 125k, and I didn't have any problems out of it the entire time I had it. I'm going to go out on a limb and use the head. If it becomes a problem I'll get one of the TUPY heads or one of the Hesco Aluminum heads since I do plan on a stroker in the future.

The other reason for the 0331 head is the exhaust port shape will match up to the manifold properly, putting manifolds that don't match the shape of the ports can sometimes greatly effect airflow and power, something I'm trying to improve with the newer top end and port and polish work on the head.

I cracked the head on my 2000 at 107,000 miles however it was mainly my fault. I drove from Tahoe home to Sac with no water pump because I was in a blizard and was not going to stop. The engine temp gauge stayed at 215 the hole time but it must have got to hot in that particular area. I purchased a Chrystler crate motor and it came with a Tupy head so I was stoked.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

A much needed update:
Upgraded ground/charging/starting cables to 2ga welding wire
Die Hard Platinum Marine battery
136 amp alternator
Custom mandrel bent cat-back with 2.5" Magnaflow cat and muffler
PSC power steering pump with cooler
Transmission cooler
LeBaron hood vents
Putco headlight harness, Autopal housings, Hella H4 xenon bulbs, LED brake, turn, and side maker lights
Taurus fan, Volvo fan controller, BMW temp switch, full auto fan control, powered off the ignition to run even if the engine is not

Lots of new standard mantainance parts

Parts about to go on:
33x12.5/15 BFG AT on 15x8 American Racing Outlaws
OME 3.5" leafs with OME AAL, MJ shackles
Currie 4" coils
Poly Performance track bar, bracket, and brace
Poly performance leaf spring hangers
PureJeep crossmember
IRO front BPEs

Temporarily going to run Rancho 5000s until later this summer when I can get the long arms made using the Poly long arm brackets, and Artec truss for the 30, some frame stiffeners, gears, and 8.8 are in order too. Then I will re-measure for shocks and I will get Bilstein or better(Fox?).

In the meantime I'm bringing the Hannaman fiberglass home so I can start prep to hang them, along with the new nose.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Here is an example of the work I'll be putting into the rest of the bodywork it's going to get before the eventual new paint job.

Had to work on the header panel a little bit, 75% of the work will be able to be fixed with high build primer, I will need to do a little bit of touch up with some spot putty. Biggest problem areas are where the mounting screws across the top that bolt into the top of the core support, the finish is flawed on the front side where each of them are at. The other is the finish of the edge across were it meets the hood, there is a lip that needs to be filed smooth, the biggest problem is where they tried to knock it off at the factory, and dug to deep every time, so what they did touch needs to be filled in, the rest of it needs sanded down. I've been playing with high build primer to get the low spots, then sanding it down with 600 grit to try and level out the high spots.

Here is an example of the header panel, and what I meant by the flaws in the mold. Most of it I didn't notice until I started sanding the high build primer to take care of the couple very noticeable ones.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

After getting off a 10 hour shift at work I got the jeep on the lift around 10:30 last night, it finally rolled out on its new shoes at about 9:30 this morning. Just enough time to get home and take a shower, grab some food, and turn around and go back to work for another 8 hour shift, I've decided I'm too old to do this ****. Here's the break down of the instal now that I have had sleep.

Primarily:
I need to do a good solid alignment, preferably not after being up for 36 hours
I still need to instal the SYE and get a driveshaft
Replace a few bolts that weren't quite right(lower control arm bolts that were about 1/2" too short for my comfort, rear upper shock bolts that were the wrong diameter)
I need to pull a few things apart to paint since the shop we were asked not to use any aerosol as they were painting a car in the morning
I may need to clearance the front skid a little for the steering
Longer sway bar links/disconnects

Secondarily:
I need to get shackle relocation brackets, my shackles are vertical, almost inverted
Time to start on the fiberglass, I'll start with the front first
Gears are a must, 4.10 at a minimum, probably 4.88
WJ disc brake swap is highly likely
My floorboards are a lot worse than I expected, it created a few issues when I was doing the Poly leaf spring brackets, luckily my frame rails are great, the floorboards were nothing I couldn't work around with the welder. I'm going to step up the rocker sliders so I can finish tying in the brackets. I'll also be able to tie in the long arm brackets

Other things on the list of things to do before the wheeling trip:
I need to pull the rear bumper and get the JCR nut strips out, several of the nuts are apparently cross threaded, I'll fix them and mount my gas tank skid and hitch
A buddy has a Mopar front tow hook and bracket, I want it in on the jeep for the trip

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

So here's an update:
The AAL is making the springs a little too stiff so I'm gonna pull it and do shackles and relocation brackets, otherwise the ride isn't bad(potholes are rough as hell though)

PolyPerformance/Synergy long arm brackets and PureJeep crossmember

Here's where the two don't mesh:

Cut here

Clearance the crossmember for the LCA bracket welds and wala!

I'll be building my arms using Metalcloak Duroflex joints, still debating 3 or 4 link.

Finally had a couple of days off to pull the front end off and get the new stuff on:

 

[sidewaysstarion]

I'll be building my arms using Metalcloak Duroflex joints, still debating 3 or 4 link.

I'm running a 3 link with those same poly brackets, I couldn't be happier with how it turned out (minus the heims taking a crap after a week). The way my 3 think is built if I managed to break it, my jeep would be having bigger issues.

 

[sunburned]

Looks good. I ran the Poly 3-link with those same brackets, and modded my TnT belly pan the exact same way. Worked great for years.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

I need your votes!!!!!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f43/vote-now-help-metalcloak-giveaway-xj-suspension-2532930/

 

[condonsation]

Are those McNeil fender flares? Fit up pretty nice?

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Are those McNeil fender flares? Fit up pretty nice?

Hannemann Fiberglass, they fit decent enough, not as well as I had hoped though. But then again fiberglass parts aren't generally known for phenomenal fit/finish.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Got a few small things done on the Jeep, got a few things I'm gathering parts for, and got a few things on deck.

Finally got the Spectre intake, but since I'm very picky about shiny stuff, I de-blinged it.

Something I've been worried about was the intake clearing my LaBarron hood vents, it doesn't very well. I've had to grind a little off the intake tube, and a little off of the bottom of the vent to make them clear, may tweak the intake tube at a later date for more clearance.

Now I'll be mounting this behind the passenger headlight, as soon as I relocate my battery to the rear, just waiting on a day where I have enough time to do everything.

Coolant reservoir from an 88 Mazda B2000. Clears up room over by the PDC, and it cost me $3.

After looking at the wiring for my relocated battery, my headlight harness upgrade, the LED spot lights I need to mount and wire, and the empty spot where my air box was, I had an idea. I figured instead of trying to figure out what to do with a bunch of lighting relays, then a bunch of power wires to the PDC(since that's going to be the closest power source), and then wire them into the PDC, I would build a second PDC to go where my air box was, supplied by a 2 guage cable coming from the factory PDC.

I spent the day wondering around the junkyard today, just window shopping, trying to scout out a PDC out of some other vehicle that was a good size, and have enough relay and fuse spots. Here is what I have it narrowed down to:

Ford relay block out of an 01 Mustang, a similar version can also be found in several Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car.

I also found this:

Found it in an 01 Impala, also saw it in the Monti Carlo around the same time. I kinda like this one, it's a decent modular design, so if I need more later, it's easy and clean to add on. But I don't plan on adding that much more to the front end so I may keep this in mind at a later date, possibly as a PDC mounted in the back?

 

[rockclimber]

I'm running a 3 link with those same poly brackets, I couldn't be happier with how it turned out (minus the heims taking a crap after a week). The way my 3 think is built if I managed to break it, my jeep would be having bigger issues.

currie makes a joint to fix that.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Well, here it is, about 85% wired up.



I still need my input wires from my low beam/high beam/fog lights, and then connect it all. I'm still waiting on a couple of parts so I can relocate the battery, once I get that done, I'll wire this in.