The Frog Blog

I am also interested in the custom factory-formed downpipe that was on both of my '99 XJs. My exhaust guys were in disbelief that the downpipe would be restricted like it was (shown in an earlier photo that I posted) but I promised them that it came that way and others have the same "dented" downpipe by the flange. Some have said it is for back pressure. Others have mentioned it is due to a clearance issue. Whatever the real purpose, I had to swear to these guys that I did not damage it (they went on to show me other factory crap laying around in their shop that they cut out, such as 90 degree bends and similar exhaust nightmares).

If anyone has any photos of their Mopar exhaust (pre-cats or restrictive downpipes), please post up here. I'd love to print them and show the dudes when I can.
 
You sure about that? So far as I know, the 99's (even the CA ones) only have one cat, the big one back by the transfer case. The FSM for the '99 also only mentions one cat. That bulge is shown in the FSM diagram of the exhaust system, but no mention is made of it having any function.

Here's an old post (7/09/10) from joe_peters that suggests they guy he was talking to has the same setup that I have.

"Best answer is to cut a short section out of the downpipe where it runs left to right across the vehicle, just before the CAT. Then install a stainless steel flex tube in there: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...FLEXPIPE-250x8"

Here's another guy (HenryKrinkle) in the same thread...

"Cut the chunk out of downpipe before the cat for a flexible section to fit."


I'd still like to see pics of other XJ owners with the same setup. Hopefully somebody will post here.
 
I am also interested in the custom factory-formed downpipe that was on both of my '99 XJs. My exhaust guys were in disbelief that the downpipe would be restricted like it was (shown in an earlier photo that I posted) but I promised them that it came that way and others have the same "dented" downpipe by the flange. Some have said it is for back pressure. Others have mentioned it is due to a clearance issue. Whatever the real purpose, I had to swear to these guys that I did not damage it (they went on to show me other factory crap laying around in their shop that they cut out, such as 90 degree bends and similar exhaust nightmares).

If anyone has any photos of their Mopar exhaust (pre-cats or restrictive downpipes), please post up here. I'd love to print them and show the dudes when I can.

I read your post and found this thread regarding the "dented" downpipe and thought you'd like it on your blog. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=964755&highlight=Cherokee+exhaust+downpipe

Thanks dude.

No problem, dude.

No, really, that was nice of you to post that here.

Sure, whatever bro. I like your blog.

Yeah, sure. OK. Thanks again.

Are you talking to yourself again?

Yes. Yes I am.
 
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shops won't climb under there and check..under the hood inspection and pass emissions...see ya!!
 
you think a flex pipe would be enough to absorb some stress from hitting the pipe on the rocks? Mine has finally developed a leak.

Josh

I would think any flex pipe would help to absorb rock shock, as well as normal driving vibes. I've seen larger flex pipes but I had such little clearance between the cat and downpipe bend. The research I found on this forum suggested using a flex pipe to lengthen the livespan of your header. Of course, that wholly depends on the amount of abuse you subject your exhaust system to.

My first XJ had a Magnaflow muffler, stock exhaust manifold, and no flex pipe and I flattened the muffler by 30% without causing any damage or exhaust leaks. No telling what would have happened if I caught the edge of the larger cat or muffler on a rock while driving forward. Probably would have ripped the entire exhaust out.
 
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I'll vouch for my last XJ ('94) having a serious crimp in the pipe. Factory installed restrictor. Really...can you fit more than 3 fingers in the pipe?
 
I knew that was coming...lol.
 
OK guys, I think we'll change the subject now before we send the FB into the toilet.

I hear Favre is going to play again this year...

images
 
OK, back to the FB.

I was REALLLLY annoyed at Big O Tires today. Went in for my first 5k mile tire rotation on my KM2's. I hung around outside, warned the kid about my front locker and to be careful on tight turns, and watched the tire mechs attempt the lift the Jeep on their car lift. No go. They moved it to another lift. No go. Finally they lifted it with a floor jack and put the axles on jack stands. Wheel lugs came off, then the mechs went off to do other jobs.

I shot the breeze with a guy with a Wrangler and we talked Jeep talk. An hour later, my meats were rotated and I went out to retrieve my Cherokee. By this time, the outside doors were being pulled closed and they were closing up shop. I walked about and counted 4 broken wheel lugs and discovered that they put the weights on the OUTSIDE of the rims. I had them put the weights on the INSIDE when I bought them initially, but forgot to tell them to put the weights inside during the rotation. D'oh.

Now I need to go back next week and have them re-spin the tires and replace my lugs. I'm not pissed that they broke the caps off my lugs, but I'm pissed that they tried to pass if off as OK and not tell me about it. That's what irks me. They'll fix it next week, they claim.

When driving off, I notice the Jeep was in 4-Hi. Not sure why that was necessary, unless the mech was effing around with my Jeep and that really PISSES me off. When you are in 4-Hi on dry pavement, it takes a while for the locker to disengage and I discovered that as I was pulling away on the busy road. Not fun, as I was being yanked from side to side by the front locker. You know what I mean.

Enough ranting, I suppose. I'm just a bit torqued that I have to go back for another hour's worth of wasted time and argue about my weights and lugs. Mmmpf.
 
OOOOOOO, Ouch. Now that hurts. I have tried all routes with the balancing and rotation...Dealership, Goodyear, Les' kids, Pep boys, a small family run joint in Woodland and Linville Bros on El Camino. Results have been all over the map.

For the Cherokees I use the Goodyear Dowtown Sac and our F250 gets routine work at Harrold Ford. Both places use coated weights for aluminum rims and typically put 'em on the inside where appropriate. That and they don't hand the work off to some schlep that also polices the grounds for trash.

Linville Bros in great for alignments and tradional patch repair (no plugs)

I changed out all my lug nuts from the oem cap covered ones because they kept on falling off just looking at them.
 
I replaced all of my wheel lugs with cheap crap made by Dorman. They look fine, but apparently they break easily. Again, my real complaint is the tire shop did not inform me that they broke my lugs and that they put the weights on the outside of the rim. You'd think they would have see the weights on the inside when they were balancing them. Guess not. Now I have weights on the outside AND the inside.

Here's a picture that shows a broken lug and a nice row of weights. Also please note the rock rash on the ENTIRE edge of the rim. One trip and those weights will be polluting the trail.

DSCN5102.jpg
 
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Today is Sunday. I think I ate some of those tainted eggs yesterday and I've been down for half a day squirting things through parts of my body that nobody should know about.

Anyway, before I succumbed to intense intestinal distress, I had a chance to loosen all exhaust manifold bolts and attempt to eliminate the annoying sucking sound from my intake (yeah...sucking at the Jeep intake and blowing at my personal exhaust). While doing that job, I decided to swap out my melted Brown Dog poly bushings and take advantage of better access to the lower manifold bolts while the driver's side mount is removed.

Here's a shot of the poly bushing that melted a bit. Recall I swapped my motor mounts while still running a cracked stock exhaust manifold and the hot exhaust blew directly on the bushings, causing it to melt and run down the bracket. Brown Dog was good enough to send me a new bushing last month (free of charge) and I finally got around to installing it.

DSCN5098.jpg

To remove this mount, I simply placed a 4x4 between my the oil pan and my floor jack and lifted the vehicle just enough to take the weight off of the engine. I then removed the through bolt, slipped off the engine mount, and removed the 5 remaining bolts to the engine bracket.

DSCN5099.jpg


While the engine mount was removed, I loosened all of the 14 mm bolts to the intake manifold, then tightened down each one with a combination of flex head Gear wrench, socket and extension, and 14 mm open-end wrench that I modified for the job.

Since the engine mount is easy to remove (under 10 minutes), I decided that I will no longer fight the lower manifold bolts by wedging my arm between the down pipe and engine block just to reach bolts 5 and 6. Instead, I will always remove the engine mount to tighten those PITA bolts.

With all bolts tight and feeling good about the job, I re-installed the engine mount and air box. The new poly bushing seated perfectly and the engine mount looked as good as new. I then checked the passenger side for loose hardware.

DSCN5100.jpg


I fired up the engine and immediately noticed a smoother idle, invariably due to a tighter engine mount installation (found one bolt loose upon removal). I still have a whistling sound at high rpm when I hit the accelerator, but it is not as pronounced as it was. My next idea is to swap out some of the vacuum lines at the intake manifold and replace the throttle body gasket.

One guy I know mentioned swapping my K&N filter back to my paper filter to see if that is causing my whistle. I did that this afternoon, between urgent visits to the porcelain god, but it did nothing to reduce the intake whistle. As for other ideas to eliminate this sucking sound, I may try releasing propane at my intake manifold and listen for an rpm change to pinpoint the source of leak. I'll probably need to swap out my intake gasket if nothing else works.

This has been a Sunday FB update. Busy work week ahead. Ugh.
 
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You bring up an excellent point about the lead being left along the trail like shrapnel. So besides aesthetics, there are clear benefits to the trail environment by mounting the weights to the inside. The combination of weights that were placed on the wheel seemed a bit odd.

I swapped my lugs out with ones made by White Knight (PEP Boys.)
 
You bring up an excellent point about the lead being left along the trail like shrapnel. So besides aesthetics, there are clear benefits to the trail environment by mounting the weights to the inside. The combination of weights that were placed on the wheel seemed a bit odd.

I swapped my lugs out with ones made by White Knight (PEP Boys.)

I don't think you can even use lead for balancing tires. Tungsten or steel is being used now.
 
I don't think you can even use lead for balancing tires. Tungsten or steel is being used now.

Yeah, same with fishing weights and shotgun shells. Steel is about all you can find I think.

Every time I wheel, even on moderate trails, I scrape my rims so weights are pointless when mounted on the outside. Besides looking bad, weights end up as trail fodder and tires become unbalanced after the first trip.

I just need to add that to my list of things to be said when I go in for service. 1) It's a Cherokee, not a grand, and 2) weights on the inside only, please.
 
You are absolutely right, they were banned in CA at the beginning of the year. The fact sheet put out by the state talks about proper disposal of not only the lead weights but also the ones of the new variety. Because the new ones are not as malleable as the old ones the shops now need to stock select weights that FIT the rim profile otherwise they just won't hang on.

http://www.dtsc.ca.gov/PollutionPre...oad/Lead-Wheel-weight-fact-sheet_final_II.pdf
 
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