The Frog Blog

Nice. Yeah, im keeping mine very clean also!

BTW, how hard was the rear main seal job?

My oil pan gasket, and rear main are terrible. It leaks everywhere, and the underside looks like a junkyard relic.
 
Nice. Yeah, im keeping mine very clean also!

BTW, how hard was the rear main seal job?

My oil pan gasket, and rear main are terrible. It leaks everywhere, and the underside looks like a junkyard relic.

The RMS job is not hard at all, but it takes time. Probably much more time than those who say it can be done in 2 hours, and even more time than those who claim it can be done in under 4 hours. I went into the project with a very clean Jeep and it took me 10 hours from start to finish, and it still leaks a tiny bit, but it is getting better.

I did my research and had all my tools and equipment. Raised the front end and let the axle drop for clearance. Began removing things like the battery connection, starter, O2 sensor, exhaust at the flange, tranny inspection plate, then drained the oil. I left the filter in at this point.

I removed the oil pan once all bolts were free. Again, this was a clean Jeep and the pan came right off. Everything (except the inspection plate) was easy thus far. Next, I removed the bearing cap retailer (10 bolts), and rear bearing cap (2 bolts).

I inspected my front seal. Looked good. Inside of engine looked great. I wiped the dripping oil from my forehead.

I spent well over an hour cleaning the lower half of the bearing cap. You need to get all of the old bearing residue out of the groove. That was tough. I pulled out the upper bearing seal as per online instructions. Easy so far.

I cleaned my oil pan seal surface and noted an extremely clean pan. I wiped it inside and out and installed my new pan gasket using 4 rubber bands to hold it in place.

Next came the fun part. I lied. This was the annoying part. I soaped up my upper seal as per directions, and began installing it in the upper groove. I dicked up the seal because I suck at this sort of thing, and had to drive to a local NAPA autoparts store to buy another one. Wasted time and money. On my drive there, I remembered something about loosening ALL of the bearing caps.

Upon my return with shiny new seal pack, I loosened up all bearing caps as noted above. Upper seal slipped right in. I added the expensive MOPAR RTV to the correct locations, then added more for good measure. Don't do that. Remember, I suck at this. Just follow directions.

I installed the lower seal and lubed up the bearing surface where I was supposed to, and didn't where I was not. Retorqued all bearing caps to proper spec, installed the bearing cap rail, and prepped the oil pan with RTV.

Again, I over used some RTV on the oil pan gasket, but so far it has not leaked. I installed the pan, loosely installed the bolts, and removed the rubber bands prior to tightening the bolts. I wrapped up the job by re-installing inspection plate (PITA), exhaust bolts, O2 sensor, starter, etc. I was pleased with the installation as it was much cleaner and faster than the dissassembly.

New oil and filter completed the job. I started the Jeep, drove around the block to check for oil pressure, and parked it. I immediately noted a quarter size pool of oil under the RMS area. I screamed, kicked, cursed, and pouted for a day until I realized it was my Oil Adapter Filter o-rings causing the leak.

I now wonder if my RMS was bad all along, as my OFA o-ring seemed to clear up all of my oil issues. Remember, I suck at this.

Good luck. I may be doing another RMS job in the very near future (different XJ).
 
Do yourself a favor. Change your OFA o-rings (8 bucks) first before attempting the RMS. Then change out your valve cover gasket, and crankcaase valves/grommets before attempting the RMS.

This has been a Frog Blog helpful hint.
 
How do you replace those o rings? Is it really messy? My valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago. I need to do something because it's leaking wayyyyy too much.
 
How do you replace those o rings? Is it really messy? My valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago. I need to do something because it's leaking wayyyyy too much.

Get the OFA o-ring kit from your local dealer. Expect to pay about 8 bucks for the set, but don't be cheap and buy anything else. Just get the recommended set and be done with it.

Next, determine what your OFA bolt head is. That is done by searching this thread and finding a few hundred posts on the same subject. I have a T-60 torx bolt, so I found my T-60 socket and punched the torx bit out. I used a drift and a slightly larger socket and...well, you can figure that part out.

I then taped the torx bit to the 12mm open end wrench so the bit would not fall out. I put the wrench on the OFA bolt and tried to loosen the bolt. Since it would not budge with my short wrench, I took my hi-lift jack handle and used that for leverage on the wrench. Fit pretty good.

I am assuming you did enough research to know where the OFA is, and the limited clearance you have, thereby necessitating the removal of the torx from the socket. Anyway, use a pipe or your jack handle and loosen that sucker up. Be careful as you are working in vicinity to some delicate parts as well as the battery. Avoid zapping yourself or cracking something important.

Once the bolt is loose, you can discard the pipe or handle and loosen the bolt the rest of the way. I removed my oil filter before taking the bolt completely out. Doing this procedure while changing your oil is best, but remember, I suck at this stuff so I like to make my life hard.

If you are careful, you can remove the oil filter without spilling too much oil. Make sure you park on your neighbor's lawn to avoid messing up your own driveway. Remove the bolt, pull out from the engine block, and inspect the bolt for the o-rings.

Each size ring is fairly straightforward and I won't go into that for fear of insulting your intelligence. Besides, a good mechanic will search first and find pics to go along with directions. My Haynes manual probably has good pics, but I never looked at that and instead simply winged it.

As a word of advice, soak your new rings in oil while you are loosening the OFA bolt. Slip them on the bolt as if it were a lucky Saturday night, and replace the OFA bolt into the block. Tighten to...70 ft lbs...I think...and replace the filter.

Presto. You are done and the entire job took longer than it took me to write the answer to your question. PM me if you need more info.

Good luck.
 
Sweet man.

I hope the oil on the inspection plate is only on the front, not back.

However, I seem to have oil leaks all around the pan gasket, even at the front seal.
I really don't want to do the rms, but I hate dropping oil everywhere.
 
As a word of advice, soak your new rings in oil while you are loosening the OFA bolt. Slip them on the bolt as if it were a lucky Saturday night, and replace the OFA bolt into the block. Tighten to...70 ft lbs...I think...and replace the filter.

50 ft lbs (per '99 FSM), if you can fit your torque wrench in there in the first place...

Lucky Saturday night... that's why I keep coming back to this darn blog. :laugh:
 
Thanks, dude. Yes, you should hang with us Sierra Chapter guys. This weekend we had some guys do a snow run and a three of us did Prairie City, so I guess you could take your pick..snow or mud.

I know we have some Strawberry Pass trips planned later this year as well, in addition to a dozen other events. Some guys are planning the Rubicon, and other's are doing more difficult trails. Either way, keep in touch, get your NAXJA membership, and get involved in the group runs. I'll head out to PC with you unless I already have wheeling, camping, or fishing plans. It is great fun and the more XJs the better (I'm starting my own fleet with a third XJ soon...).

As far as the JCR bumper, I like it very much. The welds are great and the approach angle is terrific. This is my second one (got one on Old Blue as well) but I went for a straight hoop on this Stage IV beast so I could hang some lights. If you buy one, make sure you get the uni-body tie-in brackets. Those are well worth the extra 44 bucks and are absolutely necessary if you plan to recover anyone, or be recovered yourself.

Hope to see you on the trail soon. Oh, and thanks for visiting the Frog Blog....

Thanks a bunch. Yea im a paying member over on Jeepforum. I have been out to Prairie City 3 times now and its fun for a couple hours. My biggest problems were i didnt have tow hooks or sliders. Good news is, i have front tow hooks now, and my JCR Stage 3 sliders should be coming in next week (CANT WAIT). Now the tricky part is finding time (being a senior in highschool and trying to finish my Eagle Scout, there isnt much time to spare). I would love to meet some NAXJA guys, especially because the JF guys are mainly all wranglers (there still good people).
Also, is there a reason you didnt get the winch bumper? Because i feel that if im going to spend money on a front bumper, i mine as well get one that is suitable for a winch?

Again, your jeep looks great. Cant wait to actually go out and wheel with you guys. :party:
 
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Eagle Scout! Awesome. My kid 100K XJ is an Eagle Scout from Troop 349 here in Rocklin. Keep it up and best wishes to you.

I did not get the winch bumper strictly for budget reasons. I did, however, get the 2" receiver up front so if I ever get a winch I can simply use a winch plate and move it from front to back.
 
100K XJ and I drove to San Jose today and picked up his new Jeep from Illustrated XJ. Here is some initial photos of that rig, along with the Frog and Old Blue.


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Moments after arriving home, he parked the new green XJ between the other two. It did not take him long to start washing it and pouring over every square inch of it.

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The sun was setting fast by this time, but he wanted some shots of all three together.

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From left to right, the Jeeps are equipped with 5.5" RE lift and 33" BFG KM2's, 4.5" RE lift and 32" Goodyear MTRs, and 3.5" RE lift and 31" BFG A/Ts.

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For a short time, we have our own little XJ club. Wish I could keep all three.
 
Can I bug you again? haha

I'm interested to see all 3 from the front. (Parking lot style.)

I need to decide if i want to run 33's or 32's on 4.5 inches.

The green one looks like the perfect height!
 
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