The Dana 34 Project: The Ultimate turd polish!

I put the calipers on the drums today they are exactly 170mm
The adapters were a 10 bolt.
This came from a DRW truck.
I tried to call ghost and let him know i dont need 220mm but he got tired mf me harassing him and stopped answering my calls
I may end up at about 65" wide for the sake of the rear axle adapting to the 170mm 8 lug pattern.
Thanks for your input guys
A
 
Last edited:
I put the calipers on the drums today they are exactly 170mm
The adapters were a 10 bolt.
This came from a DRW truck.
I tried to call ghost and let him know i dont need 220mm but he got tired mf me harassing him and stopped answering my calls
I may end up at about 65" wide for the sake of the rear axle adapting to the 170mm 8 lug pattern.
Thanks for your input guys
A

"You LIE! ;)
 
I think it's time to split this thread and put the D60 info/build in a new one.
 
I think it's time to split this thread and put the D60 info/build in a new one.

We do want Andy to be able to finsh posting about both axles! :kissyou:
 
I'm waiting for the FF 40 spline D35 :laugh3:
 
Build a custom 4-spider full case for the d35! I bet you could sell those, sadly
 
We have been weighing our options for practicality and are debating the 60 because of weight and ground clearance.
I have a HP 44 that is full width I can narrow down. I also already have the alloy shafts/CTMS, flat tops and a lock right. However, I still want to run the dana 34 I have been researching builds of guys that tend to go fast and a 35" tire seems to be a good round number.

I am curious how many of ya'll have specific experience trashing ring and pinions on D30 housings that are not based on shaft failure. I know folks like to say a alot and I have broken plenty of shafts/ Axle joints etc. but I have never had any problem with the R&P.

Even on jeeps running 37s the shafts and joints always fail first.

I know I am going to get railed again but I am leaning back that direction.
A
 
I've grenaded two carriers on my D30 with 35's and an aussie which took out the R&P. Both failures were with a very light foot (second one came apart in 2wd on a dirt road) and during this 1.5 year period I twisted the splines on a long-side and oblonged the ears of three sets of stock shafts (with 760's and full-circle c-clips)

The first one took a half-dollar size chunk out of the carrier where the crosspin bolts in along with braking my crosspin into three pieces.

The second carrier was ruined by an oblonged crosspin hole which proceeded to break my crosspin into two pieces.

In both cases the crosspin hit the pinion and ruined the gears.
 
Only got 2 runs on my D30 when I put the 35s on. (Disclaimer: I do enjoy the win pedal :D)

4.88s, stock carrier with lockright, stock shafts with x760s and full circle snap rings.

Took out 5 teeth. Measured .020" runout on the carrier where the ring gear broke. Stock shafts were unmolested when I pulled it all apart (no oblongs in the yokes, no twisted splines, etc., u-joints were still good).

3147_521967885430_41902041_31069650_3742012_n.jpg


Wheeling in the northeast tends to involve more wheelspin/momentum then wheeling out west I would guess. Shockloads tend to take out gearsets and internals, where as bound up tires tend to take out shafts/hubs/joints.
 
Last edited:
i have 2 rings that look JUST like that!!!!

dana 30 4.10s lockrite and 35s. everything else was stock.

go go win pedal!
 
I've destroyed two d30's myself - first one, aussie locked on 33's - cross pin fell out and mashed the pinion. second one, aussie locked on 35's, cross pin fell out and mashed the pinion and ring gear as well.
 
when i redo the 30 sooner or later I am determined to find a way to get that roll pin to stay in the cross pin. Ross (foxwar) said he used green loctite for years and it never came out, or sam (ktmracer) said he tapped the carrier on his 44 and threaded an actual bolt through the carrier, i'm sure he could tell you more about that.
 
Last edited:
Green loctite will work and hold the rollpin in place if its NEW. the problem with the stock rollpin is after you remove and install, it becomes weakened and doesnt like to stay put. When I set up Dundy's second D30, we reused the roll pin. After it shifted outta place and let the crosspin high-5 the pinion, we tried to use a screwdriver blade the stretch/open the rollpin back so it would hold better. It just factured and fell apart.


Hell, I trust the cotter pin in it now more then the stocker rollpin, at least that wouldnt slide out. :gee:



I like Sam's idea of tapping the carrier. You could use just a regular G8 bolt, or use a threaded rollpin from like a 8.8 or 8.25.
 
Back
Top