Stripped Wheel Stud Splines

[fryed_1]

Not the stud itself (well they're stripped now, they weren't new).

I've been searching for the last 45mins.

I've seen the article on how to replace them, I'm well familiar with that. I've replaced about 10 in the last day or so. Problem is looks like the splines in the hub are ground down. Searching tells me that this shouldn't matter, that they should still seat firmly enough to hold, but they don't. I don't make it a mile before 3 or 4 lugs on each front side are already spinning after I torque them to ~100ft/lbs.

These are fairly new hubs. From a 99 wrangler (yes on my 94 XJ, I know... but got a great deal on them). I know there shouldn't be a problem with it just from a TJ. The only difference was about 1/8", but TJ rotors made up for it. That all works fine, braking and everything (except when the g/f unknowingly sat in the driver's seat to change the station and stomped the brakes a few times unknowingly while they were still perched atop the LCA, but that's a different story...).

I haven't seen anyone threading wheel stubs into the hubs, but I assume it can be done right? That or simply retapping them with new splines to match some slightly larger studs? I really don't want to spend more money on new hubs for an axle that will be tossed out in less than 3 months, but don't want to let it sit for that long undrivable either. I suppose the worst part of either would be drilling out the lug holes on my rims slightly larger to fit larger studs right?

Ideas? Tapped or Threaded?

 

[AZ Jeff]

You would actually consider putting in larger lug studs as a solution? You realize that would mean new lug nuts and PERMANENTLY modifying the wheel for the larger stud.

Furthermore, in order to maintain wheel compatibility front to back and side to side, you would need to do all 4 wheels this way.

For the cost of all that shenanigans, you can just buy ANOTHER HUB. Would that not make more sense??????????????

 

[Eagle]

Have you considered:

(1) Loc-Tite? Blue (medium strength) might do it, red (high strength) or green (insanely high strength) certainly should do it.

(2) Tack-weld each stud to the flange.

 

[rstarch345]

I'm going to speculate on this since I've had a bit of experience replacing studs on an XJ and a classic jeep.

Is it possible that the current studs in question have splines that protrude through the hub? If that happens, when you put the rotor on, it will push against the stud splines causing them to begin loosening. If this is the case, why not countersink the stud holes in the rotor (rather than replacing the studs entirely with studs that have a shorter spline).

If the above is not the case, then perhaps the origional hubs had had the studs replaced before and the person doing it did a poor insertion job. If they would have pressed them in on top of the old splines instead of aligning the two, it would weaken the press fit.

Now, you say that you torqued the studs to 100 ft lbs and they are still loosening up. IF THERE is nothing pressing them out, they should not loosen. So my thought is that there is something pressing against the spline or the shoulder of the stud (if the stud has a sholder).

I've had some excellent results in keeping studs in using red loctite. Let them sit overnight before you drive. If they still come loose, then again, something is pushing the stud back out.

As far as replacing the studs and drilling and all that, I'd replace the hubs. Matter of fact, I've got two good ones (90.000 miles and feel fine), $50 shipped for the pair.

That's my two cents.

 

[fryed_1]

Actually with working on this thing for 2 days straight from near sunup to 10pm, those thoughts hadn't even popped in my head. Guess the simplest things slip by you the quickest! Tackweld would probably work nice, and can get it done for free. I don't even want to chance them popping off again with loctite.

Thanks!

 

[fryed_1]

As far as replacing the studs and drilling and all that, I'd replace the hubs. Matter of fact, I've got two good ones (90.000 miles and feel fine), $50 shipped for the pair.

I picked these up for $40/ea and they only had 5-6k miles on them I think...

Now, you say that you torqued the studs to 100 ft lbs and they are still loosening up. IF THERE is nothing pressing them out, they should not loosen. So my thought is that there is something pressing against the spline or the shoulder of the stud (if the stud has a sholder).

Well I tried XJ studs, which have shorter splines and are generally shorter in length as well. But took them out almost immediately because the lip on the outside of the stud (part pressed through the hub that is slightly larger than the threaded portion) didn't quite line up with the new rotors. The rotors had a little play in them. So I got some new TJ studs which were an exact match for the old ones. They line up perfectly and have no excess lip beyond the lip of the rotor, which is seated tightly.

For now I think I'm going to park it in the backyard until sat morning and drive the other XJ.

 

[bj-666]

are you sure there seated all the way if there not seated all the way 100ft/lbs will go to 0 very quickly

 

[fryed_1]

are you sure there seated all the way if there not seated all the way 100ft/lbs will go to 0 very quickly

Yeah they were seated. about 10 washers and an open nut with a quick burst of the impact. (Yes I'm sure it didn't strip them with that)

 

[Slonopotam]

Where have you seen the article, could you please give me a link ?
Thank you