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Still no start, no Bus, and no luck after fixing everything! Help!

Yes Sir, that's what I did today. I unplugged every sensor an still no luck. I would get No Bus everytime. I did not do the transmission sensors or O2.

I'm really not trying to take into the Dealer, but being Military I can't miss work due to my Jeep!

Don't know if this helps but I put a header in and the H-4 headlight upgrade a few weeks before this happened.

I also made sure my battery was nice and charged. It's a newer Interstate anyway.

Think I new a need a new instrument cluster? What's next, this is such a horrible experience only owning it for a month.....

What's involved in the headlight upgrade?

The NO BUS message may indicate a Bus Bias failure. No CCD Bus voltage (normally 2.5 VDC) will show a NO BUS message.

Check this:

You'll be using your new voltmeter for this. Set it at 20 VDC.
Go to the Data Link Connector.
You will be measuring the voltage of the CCD Bus (+) and the CCD Bus (-) circuits from the DLC.
With ignition on, engine off, measure the voltage at pin 3, CCD Bus (+) and pin 11, CCD Bus (-). The voltage should be between 1.8 and 2.8 volts. Pin 3 is on the bottom row of pins, 3rd from the right; pin 11 is on the top row of pins, 3rd from the right (hope this s your configuration).

If you don't get the desired 1.8 to 2.8 volts (no volts), turn ignition switch off, remove and carefully inspect fuse #9 in the Junction Block. If the fuse is blown you will need to determine where the short is in the Fused Ignition Switch Output circuit that cause the fuse to blow. If it is not blown, verify you have voltage at the #9 fuse holder - ignition on engine off - probe the fuse holder with the red (+) probe of your meter with the black (-) probe of your meter on a good ground. You should see above 10 volts. If not, you'll need to find the open in the Fused Ignition Switch Output circuit (Note: You may want to consider that you have a bad ignition switch). If okay, turn ignition off and reinstall fuse.

Check these items and get back. Next step is to check for voltage at the instrument cluster C1 harness connector.
 
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Fixed!

I ran into a buddy of mine at an X-Mas party this weekend that is a mechanic. He started laughing when I told him about my problem and talked abut how common it is. He said he sees Jeep's in his shop all week long with this issue. This guy owes me quite a few favors so one thing led to another an I had my Uncle tow up to his shop. Three hours later, a new Cam Shaft Position Sensor, and a bunch of diagnostic computer stuff it was done. I'm heading up there now to get the full report. According to them, because I tried to start it to many times in "No Bus" mode it put itself in some "safe mode" that can only be reset by pulling a series of relays an fuses. Then hook it up to the computer to clear and reset everything. I think its going to be around $300 with parts an labor...

Thanks for everyones help!
 
im chasing a no-start issue on my 93 XJ as well. does anyone happen to know who sells just the camshaft sensor?

thanks!

Dealer, NAPA, likely most of the China/India chain parts stores.
 
camshaft sensor.... AKA the sync sensor huh? weird... i find it really hard to believe mine would be bad after less than a year... but it IS a reman disty that i put in there...
 
Fixed!

According to them, because I tried to start it to many times in "No Bus" mode it put itself in some "safe mode" that can only be reset by pulling a series of relays an fuses. Then hook it up to the computer to clear and reset everything. I think its going to be around $300 with parts an labor...

Thanks for everyones help!

Outstanding fix.

See if you can find out exactly what 'series of relays and fuses' they pulled and why. To know would make good closure to this thread.
 
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