stereo/amp question

DeftwillP

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Round Rock TX
I've got a panasonic HU in my heep along with an amp for the front speakers and an amp for the sub. The rear speakers are driven by the HU.

Lately, I'm getting a lot of static and speakers fading out. It will fade most times completely to the driver front speaker. I can turn the balance all the way to right and get nothing but the sub. I can center it and fade it completely to the rear and get nothing but the sub. Sometimes the sub doesn't work either when this is happening.

I'm pretty sure that this means its the HU right? I just wanted to rule out that there is no way an amp for the front speakers can go haywire and somehow singal back to teh HU to flip its lid.
 
sounds like the head unit taking a shit to me. They don't like to run the preamp outs and the internal amps together at the same time (what you're doing by driving the rear speakers off the headunit still), it overloads the circuitry inside. Why are you running the rear speakers off the head unit still? you might be able get away with hooking them all up to the external amp - it could be possible that either of the circuit setups will still work on their own just not together at the same time :dunno:
 
Interesting, I have never heard that before. I am running all my interior speakers off my Eclipse HU with a small amp dedicated to my sub. I'm sure there's probably a lot of folks running their systems like this. Is that a problem as well, or is it only the mixing of the main speaker channels between HU and amps that causes a problem? I would like to believe the the HU manufacturers would design them to work properly with an amp on the non-fade sub output...
 
The preamp output is a simple non-amplified circuit. You get no amplification to run speakers from these channels unless you first run the signal to an external amp. If you do get any appreciable volume it would be at full blast and barely audible. So running a preamp out to an external amp while running the internal amplified channels to speakers really is a negligible load on the HU unless the preamp signal is split multiple times or you do something wonky with the wiring causing an out of phase issue, an open ground situation, or you incorrectly ohm load the any of the channels.

It does sound like the HU is letting out all the magic smoke and is failing. Most likey its the mosfets. Some of these units were built using a cheap tin based solder and as the circuits go through hundreds of heating and cooling cycles the solder will develop micro fractures eventually leading to an open circuit.

The way the channels will appear to phase in an out is, as one portion of the HU heats up it will cause the cracked solder to expand and as the circuit gradually closes you get a crackling sound and then a solid signal through out the unit.

If you are feeling froggy you can open it up and with a soldering iron go over all of the solder points. But be warned, there are tons and its time consuming and there is no guarantee that it will fix it either. Given enough time, partial voltages, low current situations... it could just be damaged beyond repair.

Edit: One thing you wanna check before tossing in another HU is, as I mentioned before, correctly Ohm loading the channels. If you use a 4Ohm speaker on an 8Ohm channel you will eventually fry that channel. If you use a 16Ohm speaker on an 8Ohm channel you will be fine. The issue comes with a simple lesson in electrical loads. Voltage (V)=Current (I)X Resistance(R) where voltage is measured in volts, current is measured in amps and resistance is measured in Ohms.

To be simple you can use 12v, cause its what cars use, and use the following rule of thumb. For voltage to remain constant current is inversely proportional to resistance. So to maintain 12v at 8Ohms your current must be 12v = I x 8ohms, so we solve for current, I = 12v/8Ohms = 1.5amps. So if this is how your HU operates and if you use a 4ohm loaded speaker 12v/4ohms = 3A. You double the amount of current when you decrease the load. In all circuits current is what produces heat. God forbid you use a 2Ohm speaker on a HU rated for 8Ohms, you'd be pulling 6A and would overheat the unit very fast on that channel.
 
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I don't know if I'm feeling that froggy. The HU is over 6 years old.


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I'd take it out and make sure all the connections are tight, especially the ground(ohm it out). I miss my old eclipse 8051 that got stolen in college--was the best sounding head unit I've owned. At least the thief didn't have the key CD(bagpipes, lol) to make it work once power was disco'd. Preamp only head units rule! I'm running an Apline 7618 tape deck w/6-disc into a gre-180 11-band eq into a RF Punch 400x4(real power) powering the temp junky Sony 5.25s and an Eclipse Aluminum 10". I need to get some other 5.25" drivers to match up to the Infiniti Kappa tweeters I have laying around(Infiniti Kappa cones always cracked). It could also be bad RCAs
 
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Another thing consider is your input source. If your running off an ipod or something, it could be the cable. I'm definitely thinking your head unit is on its way out though.
 
It happens on all inputs.

Now to find a 200w iPod deck with rear USB for $100....


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