emsanford
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Harrisburg
Hi all,
Finally after a long while away from the XJ I decided to dive right back into it and rejoin as a member. I started getting back into the XJ and have addressed a lot of issues that made me almost want to junk it. Broken I-6 (250,000 mi) and after years of wheeling it since high school I developed all kind of stress fractures. We (Eric and Marc) recently started addressing this by beginning to plate the frame rails and most importantly the steering box area which now closely mimics the C-Rok kit and beyond by continuing into the 3x3 3/16” angle covering the rails from the front door to rear both pass and drive side. Constructed a double sheer upper trac bar mount among other things. I feel we have laid a good starting point for cage attachment points. I want to finish plating and boxing the existing stock frame rails. I’ll try to post pictures or have a URL at the end of this thread so all can see. It might take an attempt or two since I’m new to the forums again.
But my biggest concern now is the steering situation. Where the tie rod and drag link meet at TRE joint is contacting and rubbing with the steering stabilizer bolt on the stock d30r mounting brackets. I don’t know if anyone else has had this issue and how it may be related to poor castor angles or related to the suspension lift in some manor. It is at about five in" lift with Clayton long arms. I’ll list the rest of the specs at the end of the thread. Anyways I’m hoping for your guys general input. I really just want to get it out and wheel it because it has just been way too long and I miss it. I do have a front d44r out of a bronco that has the removable radius arm stuff that I want to build eventually just not now. When I do build the front d44 I would also want to build a rear 9" (hopefully I can move the rear OX to this front d44). However like I said I want to run what I have now. So what are my options to fix this issue? Would a tie rod flip give me the clearance I'm looking for on the front d30r? If It did would I have issues keeping my stock trac bar angles parallel with the drag link to prevent bump steer? I’ve been away so long I don’t know what my current options are. I just don’t know hope yall can help.
I know it is horribly out of alignment and the tie rod is bent somewhat. I also know that my inspection guy will not pass it with the steering touching the stabilizer bolt for fear of binding. Please help me get her back on the road registration and all is good just itching to be behind that jeep wheel again.
Specs: 95 4dr XJ, d30r 4.56 gears Detroit true-trac, rear 87 XJ d44 4.56 OX locker, rear TSM brake conversion (ahh), 35” BFG muds, 250,000 mi with 50,000 mi I-6 4.0, have and will install Brett M. AW4 shift kit, Rustys recently refenagled spring pack, and my first lift Trail Master front coils with 3" worth of spacers, that’s all I can think of now.
Thanks,
Marc
Finally after a long while away from the XJ I decided to dive right back into it and rejoin as a member. I started getting back into the XJ and have addressed a lot of issues that made me almost want to junk it. Broken I-6 (250,000 mi) and after years of wheeling it since high school I developed all kind of stress fractures. We (Eric and Marc) recently started addressing this by beginning to plate the frame rails and most importantly the steering box area which now closely mimics the C-Rok kit and beyond by continuing into the 3x3 3/16” angle covering the rails from the front door to rear both pass and drive side. Constructed a double sheer upper trac bar mount among other things. I feel we have laid a good starting point for cage attachment points. I want to finish plating and boxing the existing stock frame rails. I’ll try to post pictures or have a URL at the end of this thread so all can see. It might take an attempt or two since I’m new to the forums again.
But my biggest concern now is the steering situation. Where the tie rod and drag link meet at TRE joint is contacting and rubbing with the steering stabilizer bolt on the stock d30r mounting brackets. I don’t know if anyone else has had this issue and how it may be related to poor castor angles or related to the suspension lift in some manor. It is at about five in" lift with Clayton long arms. I’ll list the rest of the specs at the end of the thread. Anyways I’m hoping for your guys general input. I really just want to get it out and wheel it because it has just been way too long and I miss it. I do have a front d44r out of a bronco that has the removable radius arm stuff that I want to build eventually just not now. When I do build the front d44 I would also want to build a rear 9" (hopefully I can move the rear OX to this front d44). However like I said I want to run what I have now. So what are my options to fix this issue? Would a tie rod flip give me the clearance I'm looking for on the front d30r? If It did would I have issues keeping my stock trac bar angles parallel with the drag link to prevent bump steer? I’ve been away so long I don’t know what my current options are. I just don’t know hope yall can help.
I know it is horribly out of alignment and the tie rod is bent somewhat. I also know that my inspection guy will not pass it with the steering touching the stabilizer bolt for fear of binding. Please help me get her back on the road registration and all is good just itching to be behind that jeep wheel again.
Specs: 95 4dr XJ, d30r 4.56 gears Detroit true-trac, rear 87 XJ d44 4.56 OX locker, rear TSM brake conversion (ahh), 35” BFG muds, 250,000 mi with 50,000 mi I-6 4.0, have and will install Brett M. AW4 shift kit, Rustys recently refenagled spring pack, and my first lift Trail Master front coils with 3" worth of spacers, that’s all I can think of now.
Thanks,
Marc
and my jeep for a while. I remember there being a tie rod flip kit available but don't know if it will solve my problems. Other than that spending alot of moola on other steering systems that I probably could not move over to the front d44. Oh, outside of the steering I don't see any reason I couldn't move my rear d44 OX to the front d44 when I build it. Am I wrong?
