Sprintex / Boostec Supercharger Install

...for people who don't like hacking their jeeps - like CobraMarty).

And where did I hack anything? You don't need to answer, I will- Nowhere was anything 'hacked'.

As for Rick, you can take your rant elsewhere. This thread is not about him. This thread is about my install experience.
 
It may about your install experience, but info on the product itself is always good as well.

And I don't think Yan was claiming you hacked anything - he was using you as an example of someone who wants things plug and play friendly with little to no hacking. As such, the question of whether or not everything was included to make it plug and play is valid.
 
And I don't think Yan was claiming you hacked anything - he was using you as an example of someone who wants things plug and play friendly with little to no hacking. As such, the question of whether or not everything was included to make it plug and play is valid.

... and that's the difference between a kit and a box of pretty parts IMHO. Most of Rick's kits - that I've seen/ read about thus far - were DIY/ not plug and play, so I'm curious to see how this one's any different.

$3500 is a decent price for a supercharger kit, but if you have to slave over the finer details like splicing (if you don't like hacking), tuning and dynos.. well... it's really not a plug and play kit is it?
 
Yes there is some splicing of about 10 wires for the AEM. About as hard as installing a stereo or headlight wiring harness. There is no more availability of the AEM 'patch/jumper' cable. I made my own with JY ecu and harness.

It is my choice to take it to the tuner and have the tune looked over and dynoed, and is not required. The tech there is AEM certified with lots of FIC experience and is looking forward to putting his skill to test. I for my own tinkering and piece of mind and validation will have it dynoed. I have had all my cars dynoed. Hard objective evidence of exactally what is going on with the engine. I am lucky to have a AWD dyno shop 15 minutes from me and only charge $90 for 3 pulls.
 
How does this thing run straight out the box? Were you supplied a tune? Having said that, it's good you have access to a dyno and tuner nearby; sadly, that cannot be said for most people buying this kit. Keep us posted on those extra costs.

I'm curious to see how much all these extras will run you beyond the initial 3.5k cost. o-gauge-steamer (and Rick) claimed that, unlike Rick's older kits, these kits were ready to go out the box; you're hinting towards the opposite. It will be good to get all these hidden costs out in the open from someone not working-for or getting discounted parts from Rick.
 
Discounted parts- now that would be nice. I don't work for Rick, never did. If I got any deal it was just because I was at the right place at the right time and cash talks and BS walks. End of the year, holiday discount, needed money, I don't know but I am all about the deal. I love buying off Amazon and 'free shipping' and no tax. Saving 10% is like earning 20% more.

The system will work out of the box but I seem to always want/have to change something. You don't have to change the headers but I did, you don't need a different air filter/box from stock but I did. The dyno and tuner is not necessary but is my curiosity and desire. I changed the fuel injectors to 703's which is not required or necessary. You don't need or require a boost gauge or temperature sensors but I wanted them. This is a learning/teaching experience for my son and his interests. I'm sure the next project will be a supercharger for the BMW or maybe nitrous and propane injection for something. This is only a hobby and for fun and sharing information.
 
Somewhere down the road I'd like to twin-screw my 95 m3. My next stroker will have forged internals and a lower comp ratio so that it can handle boost.
 
Somewhere down the road I'd like to twin-screw my 95 m3. My next stroker will have forged internals and a lower comp ratio so that it can handle boost.

ESS Tuning makes some nice products for the bmw. They make a twin screw for E46 328 I6 engine. So similiar to the jeep I6 except it is crossflow 4 valve head. Their kit has a new manifold like the sprintex and it has an intercooler integrated into the manifold. It is sweet. I've only seen centrifugal s/c or turbos for the M3's and no twin screw. Do you know who makes a twin screw for the M3?

9.0-10.0 CR can work. Just have to be conservative with the boost and timing advance and must have it fuelled right.
 
Yeah but I would love to have one of those intercooled manifolds. Laying it right next to the sprintex piece, they would be soo close. If sprintex would modify their existing manifold to include the tubular intercoolers, that would be sweet. But that would add $1-1.5k to the price of the kit and would price them out of the market.
 
Timing-

I will be wiring the AEM in this weekend and programming it. The timing on the 4.0 is the question. Stock you can do the CPS mod and add 6* timing and it won't ping. I think that the stock 4.0's timing is so conservative so that it can run on cheap out in the middle of nowhere or back country or deep mexico and still run adn not detonate. I bet you could put old 80 octane in it and it won't detonate.

So if you can add 6* advance and it won't detonate, then with the s/c where the norm is to retard the timing 1* / 1 pound boost and at 6 pounds that would get me back to stock timing. I hope that make sense.

I have to look, but is there timing marks on the balancer? Pointer? If I put a timing light on it will I be able to see it advance the timing with reving it? I think that I read that someone was able to verify that the CPS mod added 6* by using this method.
 
To the question of increasing the fire rate of the "extra" injector.

When installing the F/IC to fire all of the injectors, it is wired so that the PCM "fires" the F/IC. The injectors are completely divorced from the PCM and controlled, in toto, by the F/IC. Even if the control value is zero. I program in percent as it is, to me, easier to do the Math when calculating the changes to be made to the injector pulse width.

When using the "extra" injector installation, the signal to the selected injector (typically the number 1 injector) is paralleled to the F/IC and the F/IC then fires the ectra injector along with the factory injector allowing, of course, for the propagation delay in the electronics. The money involved to purchase a microcontroller and the rest of the hardware required to "multipulse" the F/IC would be, IMO, greater than the costs of a new set of 6 injectors.

Personally, I hope this works out as it will drive the cost of installation down. CobraMarty is fully instrumenting this installation and all I can see coming out of it is good things.

What would be nice is if the integrity of this Sprintex installation thread is maintained and not sniped into oblivion.

Timing. I am at over 6k' of altitude and do not pull any spark back for the first 2 pounds of boost. As far as the engine is concerned, that level of positive pressure just moved the engine down to seal level. At what is effectively 1 pound of "real" boost, I am pulling out much less than 1 degree. AND, I run on middle grade 87 Octane fuel.

AFR. I run in the mid 14s everywhere with the exception of under acceleration where the Heep drops into the mid to low 13s. I do have one special condition where it will hit 12.9 and have only seen the engine get there a few times. It may be that I can pull some fuel out of the map.

What is nice about the AEM is that you program in PSIa and RPM. My tables are setup to allow me to get to 14k' of altitude to sea level. If one is never going to go to either "extreme", one can just change the scaling to gain better resolution in the maps. Or, conversely, one could set up the "B" map for altitude over some user selected value. You would need an onboard altimeter though...

As an FYI, the Factory PCM operates via PSIa. In both the cases of the F/IC and the PCM, at initial power up, Zero RPM, look at the standing MAP value and select the starting fuel/ignition points in the map based upon that value. Auto correction for altitude.

A popular myth is that you "have to run the high Octane fuel" in a forced induction engine. No, you do not. You have to adjust the timing for the fuel you have on board. My "B" map (which was originally going to be for E85) is set up for 85 Octane. On the 85 Octane, the Heep will still out run any other XJ in town that still has a 6 under the hood. I qualify this as there are more than a few V8 XJs running rampant around here.

Will you get more performance out of the higher Octane? Sure you will but, it is not a requirement.

I know, 85 Octane. You guys down where there is actually air do not know about this stuff. But, up here, where the O2 is less, we run lower Octane across the board plus it is at least 10% Ethanol in the Summer and 15% in the Winter.

And as a final rant, Boostec is a Distributor for Sprintex. That is all it is and no more. There isn't a soul at Boostec that actually understands modern fuel injection or how it relates to a supercharged engine. The use of the AEM was lifted from me by a person that works at Boostec and he went away from my house with a very incomplete understanding of the product. Had I known that he was going to do what he did, I would not have invited him to come over to the house. At the time, I thought he was a friend. Guess not...
 
Even used Eurosport TSs cost ~$5K. I want the linear power delivery of the SC(I auto-x my 95), so no turbo for me.
 
Wiring the AEM FIC to control just the 7th injector is much simpler than wiring it to control the whole system.

What is needed is:
1-tap power 12v+
2-tap ground 12v-
3-tap signal ground
4-tap TPS signal
5-tap injector #1 signal
6-cut crank position wire and attach both sides(ecu and sensor) to 2 AEM wires
7-cut cam position wire and attach both sides(ecu and sensor) to 2 AEM wires
8-connect 2 wires from AEM to 7th injector

Don't need to modify the MAP or O2 sensor signal wires or cut into al the injector wires when doing the 7th injector control.

So tap 5 wires, cut and splice into 2 wires, connect 2 wires. No more difficult than wiring a stereo or alarm system or remote start system or electric fan system, etc. An adapter or harness piece would be quite overkill and unnesessary. Yes you do need some basic wiring skills.

All this doesn't have to be done at the ECU. I think that I will do all this to the wiring harness up near the firewall.
 
We'll have to see if and how that plays out. The goal is not to see A/F ratios much below 12.5-13 and to see just how rich the ecu wants in WOT before going into open loop.
 
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