BayouXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Baton Rouge La
I'm not sure if this goes here but, has anyone mounted an after market spare tire carrier on a factory bumper? If so, did it work out ok?
Spare tire carrier on factory bumper?
- Thread starter BayouXJ
- Start date
- Location
- La Habra, CA
The factory bumper is just formed steel, so it probably wouldn't be strong enough to support the weight of the tire carrier and spare tire. I think the bumper would just start twisting.
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
I have my "swing away" spare wheel mounted on a carrier that's fixed to the rear bumper as an original factory fitment. There's a special reinforcing bracket that's fixed to the right corner of the bumper so there's no issue with the bumper twisting.
MAXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Massachussetts
This might help you out, i found this one a while ago.
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARtireCarrier/RearTireCarrier.htm
Seems like it would work out allright as long as your tires arent too big.
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARtireCarrier/RearTireCarrier.htm
Seems like it would work out allright as long as your tires arent too big.
jeepnutty
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Albany, NY
I installed an aftermarket tire carrier to help free up the cargo area - it cost about $170 about five years ago. For the model I bought, both hinge and latch had to be bolted behind the rear light housings (remove the lights, three bolts each side into the body). The hinge side had an extra L-bracket through which two bolts were threaded through the upper bumper ledge (had to be drilled, aligned with the bracket). The rear license plate and light then had to be relocated because the original location would have been behind the tire (bracket was supplied in the kit), and that requires drilling into the rear hatch for the new mounting screws (you really have to commit to this!). The carrier has two adjustable rubber bumpers that snug up the carrier arm against the rear hatch when closed. It blocks a small area of vision (center) in the rear glass (because the tire has to ride high enough to clear the bumper), but not nearly as much as the blind spot caused by the original cargo area placement. It's not even noticable after a while. Also, towing can be a bit tricky (have to open the carrier partially, mount and lock the trailer, close the carrier), because the tire rides directly over the hitch ball. Also, you have to check that the trailer contents clear the rear tire when turning.
It worked pretty well at first, but because of the setup, it is almost entirely supported by the body when opening, not the bumper (as with the OEM setup). After a while, the body flexes on the hinge side and causes carrier sagging and tailight problems. To get around this, I ran a length of heavy chain behind hitch-side rear interior cargo side wall, from the rear seatbelt mounting bracket to one of the upper carrier hinge bolts (last link placed over the internal bolt protrusion and held there with a nut). Then, I tightened it up so no flex was possible. It solved the problem, but I had to farbricate a new interior cover (1/4" wood, heavy vinyl of same interior color, stuck on the original wall with velcro for access), because the chain ran throught the original cover "recess", which had to be cut out. It was a bit of work, but I haven't had a problem since, and you can't really notice a difference in the interior. I also had to repaint it once because the aftermarket finish is not as good as OEM and it is in a corrosive area (I live in the Northeast, lots-o-salt spray).
Was it worth it? For me (believe it or not), ABSOLUTELY. I run occasional weekend outings (ski, camping trips, etc...) with friends and I would have gone nuts without the extra cargo area. It all depends on whether you can live without the room. If you can find an OEM carrier, it is a much stronger setup, but my guess is you can't find many and it would be expensive if you did.
The interior tire used to drive me crazy - I can't believe they couldn't come up with something better, or make the exterior carrier standard equipment.
Hope this helps - if you have any questions, drop them in the forum.
It worked pretty well at first, but because of the setup, it is almost entirely supported by the body when opening, not the bumper (as with the OEM setup). After a while, the body flexes on the hinge side and causes carrier sagging and tailight problems. To get around this, I ran a length of heavy chain behind hitch-side rear interior cargo side wall, from the rear seatbelt mounting bracket to one of the upper carrier hinge bolts (last link placed over the internal bolt protrusion and held there with a nut). Then, I tightened it up so no flex was possible. It solved the problem, but I had to farbricate a new interior cover (1/4" wood, heavy vinyl of same interior color, stuck on the original wall with velcro for access), because the chain ran throught the original cover "recess", which had to be cut out. It was a bit of work, but I haven't had a problem since, and you can't really notice a difference in the interior. I also had to repaint it once because the aftermarket finish is not as good as OEM and it is in a corrosive area (I live in the Northeast, lots-o-salt spray).
Was it worth it? For me (believe it or not), ABSOLUTELY. I run occasional weekend outings (ski, camping trips, etc...) with friends and I would have gone nuts without the extra cargo area. It all depends on whether you can live without the room. If you can find an OEM carrier, it is a much stronger setup, but my guess is you can't find many and it would be expensive if you did.
The interior tire used to drive me crazy - I can't believe they couldn't come up with something better, or make the exterior carrier standard equipment.
Hope this helps - if you have any questions, drop them in the forum.
