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Short arm to long arm

Those are nice...and pricey. I'm more on the diy thang. could'nt I just make some brackets that bolt under the cross member? I notice the upper arms mount on the lowers. Does it have to be this way for a longarm setup?
 
Do you want to run true long arm's or do you want to run a y-link setup like tnt has? If you want to run a y-link then there's plenty of companies that make the arms seperate from the x member. If you want to run true long arms then you'll need to do some searching on here for either 3 or 4 link and there's ton's of threads about it alot with pics.
 
dfete91 said:
Those are nice...and pricey. I'm more on the diy thang. could'nt I just make some brackets that bolt under the cross member? I notice the upper arms mount on the lowers. Does it have to be this way for a longarm setup?


Just to clarify you've gotta have a pretty bomber x-member, the t-case x-member will NOT suffice. Diy or not, the stock -member is just not up to the task.
 
dave92cherokee said:
Do you want to run true long arm's
What kinda crap is that.Rusty's,RE,Clayton's,Rockcrawler,etc are all long arms!Whether it is a radius arm,3-link,or 4-link makes no difference!
 
Yes they are all long arms but different styles require different mounting styles. TNT's y link mounts to only one place on their replacement x member, rusty's is like TNT's only without the slight bend in the lower arm and mounting to a replacement x member. Once again Clayton's is like the above 2 only using square tubing, no bend, and mounting to a new x member. Rock krawler is a 3 link and instead of using a x member uses mounts that are attached to the uniframe. True 4 links have several different ways of being mounted but all look close to the same with two lowers far apart and two uppers close together and mounted to the uniframe in custom mounts instead of on a x member (usually).
 
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