Serious irritation...tnt truss

[REVROK]

Ok, so I got this great deal on an 86 waggy d44 in the gear ratio that I needed and am as bonus it's recently rebuilt with a lunchbox locker. So I buy a tnt truss and it's really a nice piece. Welded it on after checking it over to make sure it had every thing I asked for... Then after completely welding her I notice there is no triangulation angle on the drivers side upper control arm mount.

So my question is what size tube holds the bushing? I can cut and grind the mount off and make a new one, no idea if the tube is a regular size? Input?

 

[REVROK]

Ok, apparently being mad shortcircuits my intelligence...used a vernier and it is 2 x 1/4. As you can see the mount is perpendicular to the truss and the truss is welded to the axle including the lower CA mounts and my custom mounts for the swaybar links.

 

[REVROK]

No more questions... just venting and looking for sympathy. Of course I also feel mildly :doh: for not catching it before it became permanent. I am adding a twist to the build on this. I will be redrilling the hub faceplate to 5x4.5 bolt pattern and opening up my wheel centers because I am not interested in buying new wheels and EMS offroad gave me the idea because they offer it as an option on their hub conversion kit. Just have to use spline drive lug nuts... no biggie there.

I'll show you guys when it's done.

 

[Rammin97]

Hey Revrok, was the other side setup right? That sucks!!!! Can't you just cut it off at the base, reposition it, and burn it in? you could add a plate to the truss if it's a bit shorter after the removal..

 

[REVROK]

Hey Revrok, was the other side setup right? That sucks!!!! Can't you just cut it off at the base, reposition it, and burn it in? you could add a plate to the truss if it's a bit shorter after the removal..

That's exactly what I did added a small piece of 1/4" scrap angle and welded across and to the front as well... The other side was fine... think I'll call Treks and at least get a nice T-shirt for my trouble and for the fact that it is just slightly less pretty than before.

 

[Rob D]

Thanks for posting this. I just ordered one of their trusses for a d44 I'm workin on. So now I'm thinking it would be a good idea to call them on this before they ship it to me. Did you get the RockKrawler mount or just the standard upper mount? I would prefer they do it rather than me, since my flux-core won't look nearly as nice as their welds. And to repeat, post pics please. Just in case I have to do it I'll probably copy what you've done.

 

[Rock Yacht]

Thanks for fixin' our goof... Dayum new guys.

Shoot us an email to [email protected] with sizing and shipping info.

Bob

 

[connor0770]

That's good customer service right there!

 

[REVROK]

Thanks for posting this. I just ordered one of their trusses for a d44 I'm workin on. So now I'm thinking it would be a good idea to call them on this before they ship it to me. Did you get the RockKrawler mount or just the standard upper mount? I would prefer they do it rather than me, since my flux-core won't look nearly as nice as their welds. And to repeat, post pics please. Just in case I have to do it I'll probably copy what you've done.

You shouldn't need to do it... I doubt seriously if they would make the same mistake twice. I'll be glad to post up what I did when I get a chance... the welds are good, but the double layer of metal means not near as pretty as the original setup. I would not even consider doing it with a flux core, not even the tube to truss welds. I have a Lincoln 175 amp mig. If you are going to buy the truss and are using a flux core 110, get another welder or have a pro do the work.

 

[Jes]

I would not even consider doing it with a flux core, not even the tube to truss welds.

Why not?

 

[REVROK]

Why not?

Actually, not the flux core that is the issue so I mis-spoke... a 140 might be strong enough to weld this truss to a 44, but I would feel much more comfortable about penetration with a 220 welder. The heat level I used to weld mine is beyond the Miller 140 I have used in the past.

 

[REVROK]

Thanks for fixin' our goof... Dayum new guys.

Shoot us an email to [email protected] with sizing and shipping info.

Bob

Just emailed an order request for your trac bar (with a T--shirt) :scottm: and hope to hear from you soon!

 

[REVROK]

Thanks for posting this. I just ordered one of their trusses for a d44 I'm workin on. So now I'm thinking it would be a good idea to call them on this before they ship it to me. Did you get the RockKrawler mount or just the standard upper mount? I would prefer they do it rather than me, since my flux-core won't look nearly as nice as their welds. And to repeat, post pics please. Just in case I have to do it I'll probably copy what you've done.

Did you get your truss? If you wanted to bring it over you can use my welder or I'll burn it in for you.

 

[Rob D]

Actually, not the flux core that is the issue so I mis-spoke... a 140 might be strong enough to weld this truss to a 44, but I would feel much more comfortable about penetration with a 220 welder. The heat level I used to weld mine is beyond the Miller 140 I have used in the past.

Just an update. Got my truss and it has the proper angles on the uca mounts. I need to do some minor grinding so that it will fully slide into position past the sides of the diff housing. But I must say it is a very nice looking bit of work they do putting those trusses together. I can't wait till I have it all done and can test it out on the trail. And I'm still trying to decide the welder issue. My 140 amp flux-core Lincoln has been good to me so far. But a 220 powered 170 or 180 flux-core with the heavier (hard to find) wire would be that much better to get a good burn into these tubes. I just don't have one. :dunno:

 

[Rob D]

Did you get your truss? If you wanted to bring it over you can use my welder or I'll burn it in for you.

After I wrote all my stuff above I saw your latest. Thanks for the offer. I might take you up on that. I'm not quite ready to burn it in yet. I'm thinking of narrowing the housing first. I want to be able to use stock TJ Rubicon length inner shafts on this. Makes it easier to find/get new shafts that way. When I get it ready I'll try to get hold of you and see if the offer still stands. Thanks again.

 

[Phil]

If you tack it together, I have a 220V MIG setup in Sac and commute to Antioch daily and could help weld it up.

 

[chasdb]

Are you guys running air lockers? Just wondered the best place is to put the vent line and fitting for the ARB since the truss and control arm bracket is right over the original vent hole and hole to mount the brake lines which I was originally going to enlarge for the locker.

 

[Rob D]

Are you guys running air lockers? Just wondered the best place is to put the vent line and fitting for the ARB since the truss and control arm bracket is right over the original vent hole and hole to mount the brake lines which I was originally going to enlarge for the locker.

I decided to go with the e-locker. It was between the ARB, OX or e-locker tho. If it had been the ARB I was thinking the same thing, run the line thru the brake line mount bolt hole. I may still be able to use that hole for the electrical wires tho.

If you tack it together, I have a 220V MIG setup in Sac and commute to Antioch daily and could help weld it up.

Thanks Phil. That's a heck of a commute from Sac to Antioch. As soon as I get it narrowed and the truss all fitted up pretty to the new width I'll see what I can do from there. At the pace I'm moving with this project it may be New Years before I get that far. I'm getting closer tho. I "only" have to get gears, install kit, inner tube seals, axles, u-joints, steering/track bar parts and some brake calipers and I'll be able to get this thing all put together. :gee: