Self adjusters...

If you are truely concered, buy a new hardware kit, adjuster kit and new adjuster cables. everything new and properly greased should work as designed.

Until you resign yourself to affording all new parts, don't expect it to work perfectly.
 
Well I dunno what to do then... the brakes are clearly *not* self adjusting, and it doesn't look like they ever will without something to put some drag on the star wheel...

the last pic is with the old cable and saddle, but the position of the lever was about the same with the new one.

I also tried putting a little anti sleaze on the backside of the lever but that didn't do anything at all... star wheel still does not ratchet
 
If you are truely concered, buy a new hardware kit, adjuster kit and new adjuster cables. everything new and properly greased should work as designed.

Until you resign yourself to affording all new parts, don't expect it to work perfectly.

That's exactly what I did (from NAPA,) and it still doesn't work.

I tried swapping in the new star wheels from the kit, no change.
 
One last thing. I don't mean to admonish or lecture but, using anti-seize as a lubricant in brake parts is poor practice. Simple wheel bearing grease will last longer and do a better job.
 
well maybe I'll clean out the star wheel threads and put grease on them then. I did use brake grease on the pads but figured anti-sleaze was the right stuff for a threaded assembly. They seem to be quite free though, and that anti-seize has been on there for several months (I put it on when I pulled the drums this summer to inspect the brakes for wear)

maybe a thick brake grease making the star wheel *harder* to turn would be better?

But whatever grease is on the new NAPA star wheels doesn't seem to make any difference.
 
That's exactly what I did (from NAPA,) and it still doesn't work.

I tried swapping in the new star wheels from the kit, no change.

How long are you giving it? they don't wear much in 10,000 miles and the wheel should only move a click or two over that time.

There should be a ~1/8" or little more gap between the drum and the shoe for the system to work properly.

When first installed, the 'correct' install uses the gap gauge to adjust the shoes before the drum is installed.

The shade-tree and widely used method is to adjust the shoes with the drum on, until the slightest drag is heard while rotating the drum. the shoes should not drag on the drum. If they do, they are too tight and will wear quickly, heat up and heat check.
 
I think I got it!

Sometimes I guess you just have to step back, pour yourself a cup of coffee, bitch on the internet for a while, and think about the issue before you actually come up with the solution.

The problem, I think, was that the new springs for the adjuster lever were too strong - not in the rotational direction, but they were pressing the lever too hard against the star wheel. I unhooked the spring from the lever, stuck my screwdriver in there, and pried it out away from the backing plate a little to bend it so that it would provide less tension in the "in" direction.

Pass side seems to be working now! I'll reinstall the new cable and guide so it stays working freely, then do the same treatment to the driver's side, and hopefully be done with this whole sordid mess.
 
I'm going to pronounce success...

I put everything back together after putting all the new parts back on and bending the spring on the driver's side... didn't really adjust the brakes just left them where they were. Drove over to the all you can eat buffet place because, well, it was that time. Came back, did maybe 5-6 hardish stops forward and reverse in the driveway. Handbrake was at 6-7 clicks before I left now it is at 5.

I'll check the brakes again on Saturday when I'm over at the shop but I *think* I got it...

This is probably the first time the brakes have worked 100% correctly since I got the thing... when I got it the fronts were worn out, replaced them, couldn't stop (which was odd because I could stop before), took it to local mechanic who said "oh, your rears were just out of adjustment" so I don't think the self adjusters were even working before... I was going to put off fixing until the rear shoes wore out, but then my wheel cyls. crapped out on me... of course, while it was cold and snowy.
 
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Success. By backing up and hitting the brakes hard (repeatedly), you adjust them up to where they should be. That's my method after every brake job.

I do the same thing. I've replaced a couple of levers and adjuster cables over the years, but as long as I use a dab of copper paste on the star wheel threads I've never had any real issues with mine (except one adjuster cable that rusted completely through). I did reassemble them wrong once, the (mid shoe) cable guide popped out of the hole and that drum refused to adjust.

If you want to get them adjusted quick after a shoe change or service, apply the parking brake lever maybe three clicks, back up and brake moderately hard. A combination of the parking brake and stopping in reverse usually tightens the shoes up quick.

The main problem around here is nobody carries a complete brake rebuild kit. If you are lucky you get some useful stuff in a kit, but I most always end up ordering the pieces I really need one at a time.

Be sure and compare the length of your new adjuster cable with the old adjuster cable.

One thing I do that seems to really extend the life of all the barke pieces is I remove the drum and wash out all the dust, rust, slat and whatever at least once year. I use a bucket of hot suds, a bottle brush and catch pan. Then rinse with really hot water. Re grease the star wheel threads and the dab spots behind the shoes, check the wheel cylinder for seepage.

Another million dollar trick, dab a finger full of grease onto all of the wheel cylinder and other brake line connections. Wipe off last years grease and apply some new stuff yearly. You'll thank me when it comes time to replace brake lines. Ten minutes a year can save a lot of grief later on.
 
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