Rugged Ridge steering

killerfly128

killerfly128

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Is there a way to "fix" the problem with the inverted t setup? I understand that spacers make it a world better, are there any other tips or tricks you guys have for dealing with it?
 
We tried spacers on all three joints,it was still bad.Replaced the RR set-up after about a month of "f*** this sh**".
 
There is no way to fix the dead spot. You can put on spacers, but those will only help a little, and they wear out pretty quickly as well. I recommend doing a WJ knuckly swap. I am actually using a WJ knuckle/big brake swap, and using the Rugged Ridge Steering components. However, I am using the RR Drag link to the top knuckle mount, and the RR Tie Rod OTK on the lower Knuckle mount. Only way to make the RR work IMO.
 
I ran the RR for about a week and gave it away!! It was a waste of money......built my own with .75" heims and 1.5" x .250" wall chromoly tubing. Heims and tubing about $160.00.
Now it's bullit proof!!!
 
killerfly128 said:
Is there a way to "fix" the problem with the inverted t setup? I understand that spacers make it a world better, are there any other tips or tricks you guys have for dealing with it?
Click to expand...

The way to "fix" this is by buying a different setup I had it and thats how I fixed my problem and I havent looked back!!!:greensmok
 
Well thanks guys .. looks like I need to keep looking for something to refresh my super worn steering. I dont have much cash to spend right now and I know I need something slightly better than stock at the minimum. Anyone have any options?
 
Rugged ridge =:banghead: Nothing I did really helped much, except the swap to Iron rock heim setup
 
JRW7072009 said:
A friend from work has the RR steering on his TJ and he hates it, we tried some hard poly spacers on both rod ends and it helped a little, but it still sucks.

I sure do like my JCR otk steering:D
Click to expand...
I thought they were exactly the same except for the smaller TRE's? No? I have the JCR OTK/OTA setup and it a bitch for a while! I had killer death wobble and the infamous dead spot. I kinda just went crazy and started replacing everything I could think of for a while there trying to fix it. It turned out to be the upper control arm bushings were sloppy, the LCA super flex joints were loose but the biggest fix was getting the alignment perfect. The caster (pinion angle) needs to be set between 5 and 7 degrees and the toe needs to be at 1/8" in or at exactly zero. It seems like a stupid thing but the alignment really makes a difference with the inverted-t and it's super sensitive to worn parts. Mine's been perfect for about a year now, no weird stuff at all, thank God. I did notice it was the worse when I originally had it UTK with the track bar in the stock location. OH and I don't use any spacers at all any more, it's just good like it is.
 
What set-up are you running now?How much lift do you have?
 
killerfly128 said:
6.5" of lift on 35" MTR's

The current setup looks to be a stock one, I didnt build the rig. I bought it with all of the lift and such so I have no idea what is done and what isnt.
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That all very important info, you'll need to know that down the road when you need to start replacing worn parts and such. I would get in touch with the previous owner and get an accurate list of all the mods made to it so you''ll know what your dealing with.
 
robsjeepxj said:
That all very important info, you'll need to know that down the road when you need to start replacing worn parts and such. I would get in touch with the previous owner and get an accurate list of all the mods made to it so you''ll know what your dealing with.
Click to expand...

Thats gonna be tough, the truck seems to have been built by a guy in PA andd shipped to a guy in texas. I MIGHT be able to get ahold of the original owner but I strongly doubt it.

As for the steering issues, all I need is a setup that will be stronger than stock that wont kill me. I have alot of play in the stock setup as things sit and am starting to become concerned about its safety.
 
The currie setup has a good track record for not having drivability issues as it's primarily a HD stock replacement, not sure if it's recommended up to 6.5" though. I personally won't put a rugged ridge setup on anything I own. There are way too many better options out there.
 
robsjeepxj said:
Then you either need to get under there and have someone shake the wheel and see what's loose or take it somewhere to get checked out.
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Already done that, pretty much every TRE is shot. I can eather replace the stock stuff, go rugged ridge, try to get a V8 zj setup to work, or find something else lightly used.

robsjeepxj said:
The currie setup has a good track record for not having drivability issues as it's primarily a HD stock replacement, not sure if it's recommended up to 6.5" though. I personally won't put a rugged ridge setup on anything I own. There are way too many better options out there.
Click to expand...

Better = out of my price range. I cant afford $400 for steering right now and saving for something high dollar wont work. I feel there is a safety risk driving it now and my normal daily just died so I am forced to drive the big Jeep.
 
I would recommend replacing the TRE's and calling it a day then. I ran stock steering and with BigDaddy tie rod for about two years when my jeep had the 4.5" lift on it and it was fine. Also with that setup replacement parts were very easy to come by should I ever need them in a hurry. Any way you look at it a HD aftermarket steering kit is going to run you at least $300 just to start, the better more HD stuff requires lots of fab work on top of that, most are not exactly bolt on.
 
robsjeepxj said:
I would recommend replacing the TRE's and calling it a day then. I ran stock steering and with BigDaddy tie rod for about two years when my jeep had the 4.5" lift on it and it was fine. Also with that setup replacement parts were very easy to come by should I ever need them in a hurry. Any way you look at it a HD aftermarket steering kit is going to run you at least $300 just to start, the better more HD stuff requires lots of fab work on top of that, most are not exactly bolt on.
Click to expand...

That is what I have found in my search. I dont know if I want to go with the rustys tie rod and replace the rest with stock or just do the zj conversion
 
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