muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
Yeah the shanks are shorter but it will still work out. I had to lose about 1/4" of length but wasn't a problem.
Rough Country Flex-Joints worn
- Thread starter westvalleyxj
- Start date
westvalleyxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Peoria, AZ
Yes, the amount of actual depth the shank needs engaged to be secure is the diameter of the shank itself. Example, if the shank is .75 inches, then only .75 inches of the shank needs to be threaded in the rod to be secure.
muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
You should be able to hit that length. I have the long arms and needed a bit more length to reach 29.5" but didn't hurt to go with 29.25".
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
IIRC...RC says the set the lowers to 29.75" eye to eye. Depending on how much lift you have a 1/2" could make rubbing a real problem.
Just to add to this.. I am one of the many with bushing problems. I just got off the phone with Jeffery at RC. They are now waiting for a new order of bushings from Currie. It's a poly bushing, but Currie seems to make good stuff so we'll see. The should be ready and in the system in 2-3 weeks.
Rustys also makes a a flex joint that will work.
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muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
Yeah I originally had em at 29.75 but rubbed on the front of the flare so instead of trimming I moved it back 1/4". Now I moved it back another 1/4" and the tire seems to be perfectly centered in the fender.
Poly bushing to replace the flex joint? Or a poly bushing for inside the flex joint? If they end up going with the complete currie joint, I'm gonna lose my mind cuz I just spend $$ on getting currie joints after all those failures.
- Location
- Oceanside, CA
From my understanding they are getting poly bushings from Currie for INSIDE the flex joints.
muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
Well they must be custom made because I spoke with Currie a while back about swapping in their bushings but they said it won't work. I'm curious what they will give RC.
I installed the 4.5" short arm kit on my DD on Friday and immediately had clunking... (didn't see this thread first) The upper jam nuts were loose, so I tightened them down. I drove 200ish miles on them and they're still clunking.
In the install directions, it said to 'snug' the ring down with the spanner wrench then lock it in with the set screw, I'm wondering if I should have greased the rubbers before assembling the joint then load it with grease after as well?
I'm gonna pop them off today and grease them by hand then tighten the washer down gorilla tight. See if that helps. As a DD, the clunking really sucks, sounds like I got stuff about to fall off when I'm on the freeway
If this doesn't work, - just to be clear, these are the currie replacements I'll want. Correct?
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1262
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=2629
I want to try what I can before dropping more money on Currie joints, but don't wanna be like muddeprived changing the joints out every 20 miles... LOL And I don't want to buy the joints if RC is going to offer up a real solution that works either.
Thanks for your help fellas.
In the install directions, it said to 'snug' the ring down with the spanner wrench then lock it in with the set screw, I'm wondering if I should have greased the rubbers before assembling the joint then load it with grease after as well?
I'm gonna pop them off today and grease them by hand then tighten the washer down gorilla tight. See if that helps. As a DD, the clunking really sucks, sounds like I got stuff about to fall off when I'm on the freeway
If this doesn't work, - just to be clear, these are the currie replacements I'll want. Correct?
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1262
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=2629
I want to try what I can before dropping more money on Currie joints, but don't wanna be like muddeprived changing the joints out every 20 miles... LOL And I don't want to buy the joints if RC is going to offer up a real solution that works either.
Thanks for your help fellas.
muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
Use a pry bar or large flat head screwdriver to test the joints. Prying them forward will tell you if they are shot, or you can go flex it and see if they move forward or back. Usually the lowers will clunk or move with a pry bar while in park and the uppers are pulled forward when flexing. That's how I know they are bad.
I'd call RC first since the news is they are going Currie so you might not have to spend any $$.
I'd call RC first since the news is they are going Currie so you might not have to spend any $$.
XJOFFROAD
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Washington State
kdub, why spend $200 when RC might be switching joints????? Give RC a call first before you waste $200.
I wouldnt have spent it but after reading from other posts on how nice and tight the johnny joints were i had to give it a whirl. But other than their joint going out RC is the way to go. Great customer service and they will jump through hoops to make their customers happy.
but by all means dont go spend 2 bills like i did and call RC i did and they said that they were still working on the new joints and wont be out for a while and i wanted to have a non clunking ride now and not in 2 weeks or months lol thats why i just nutted up and bought the joints.
muddeprived
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- PA
Doubt it's gonna last long. I did that on the very first joints, not knowing how tight to put em and the quietness only lasted a week. I tried alot of different tightnesses from light to spanner-breaking-tight and nothing could stop the clunking from returning.
