Roller Camshafts for the 4.0

I have been following this on the yahoo strokers group for a while, I am in the process of gathering parts for a 4.7L. I am very interested, but I would like to know some results, but I know that we are the guinea pigs. So give me a ballpark figure on the price..............
 
JTwthaXJ said:
I have been following this on the yahoo strokers group for a while, I am in the process of gathering parts for a 4.7L. I am very interested, but I would like to know some results, but I know that we are the guinea pigs. So give me a ballpark figure on the price..............


Sorry, haven't got one yet, but will be calling Joe Today. Been working on one of my "other" projects.( Trying to turn an old abandoned "air strip" into a Drag Strip!:guitar: :passgas:

As far as the "guinea pigs" go's. Look at it this way, the more buyers of the first cam, the less expensive it will be.
If the 2nt order only included...... you or I.................the price could be, way high.:confused:

I'm hoping that i will be getting a Quote for 1 cam as well as 6+ cam order, just for comparison.:cool:
 
what are we looking at for grind specs?

I've had hesco's rvob, didn't like it, currently running cliffords cam, not sure which one, 246 comes to mind, but anyway I really like it. i also put in a set of yella terra roller rockers, and the valves are a lot noiser than I'd like, probably due to the springs, if this cam and some roller lifters will quiet things down I'm in.
 
brent said:
what are we looking at for grind specs?

I've had hesco's rvob, didn't like it, currently running cliffords cam, not sure which one, 246 comes to mind, but anyway I really like it. i also put in a set of yella terra roller rockers, and the valves are a lot noiser than I'd like, probably due to the springs, if this cam and some roller lifters will quiet things down I'm in.

We need all the cam buyers we can get:lecture: , and i would love to say that it would be Quieter,.......But if the Roller Cam did, make it Quiter, it would probably be due to better lifter preload or maybe you have a lifter that just won't pump up right.

If its a a bad lifter making the noise then a new lifter could help the problem.
And the worse scenario,...... your cam is going flat and then, most definitely, the Roller Cam would be a lot quieter and live a lot longer.

I have never used the "Yella Terra" roller rocker so i have no idea if they are sapost to make noise. But, if they are the cause of the noise then the roller CAM would make the same noise.
I'M NOT TRYING TO TALK YOU OUT OF A ROLLER CAM!
Just don't want you to spend $$$$ on a cam to get ride of a noise that may have to do with the valve train and not the cam.

I would be double checking the preload of the lifter . The new rocker arms may have changed how far the push rod go into the Hyd lifter.


Flash.
 
What's the status of the development of the 4.0L roller camshaft? I'm interested after having wiped a Crane cam at 10,000miles.

CJR
 
CJR said:
What's the status of the development of the 4.0L roller camshaft? I'm interested after having wiped a Crane cam at 10,000miles.

CJR

Sorry to here that.
Were you using the GM cam additive? or equivalent to get the zinc level back up.

Over on the "Yahoo stroker group" were still hard at it!
currently were trying to decide which cam to us, as the copy to make the roller cam from.

There is 2 or maybe 3 design of the 4.0 L cam. one that us a dowel to hold the timing chain sprocket in place and one, that uses a key way, and the 3d cam has a strange wider first journal with a blind hole drill in it,..... that may have been us for indexing we are trying to be able incorporate all of them in to one Roller Cam Blank. Also there is a fuel pump lobe on the carb AMC Inline six that we want to have on the Roller cam blank......if it don't take to much effort!

We have 3 old cams that have been sent to Roto faze and are being evaluated as we speak.
I have put in a call to him and waiting for a return call.
Once we have decided which one, what variation, how , and when i will let you know.

Just to thro out a little more info,

I ask Joe at Roto Faze who he recommended to grind these cam blanks after he has made them.

CAM GRINDING!

He said that if you live in the Eastern states, that Crane (Florida) is who he would recommend. Crane Cams, talk to Chase Night at 386-2552-1151 EXT.# 402

If you live in the Western states, that he would recommend "Schneider Cams" out of California. Take to Jarry 619-297-0227

Joe has used both of these cam manufactures for every thing form a one of a kind roller cam for a 50's V8 caddy(that he raced out on the salt flats) to custom roller motor cycle cams with enlarged cam journals so that more lift could be created!


Flash.
 
I have the Yella Terra roller rockers and love them! The valvetrain noise that I had before with a Crane cam and standard factory rockers was all but gone with the Hesco cam I got and the Yella Terra Roller Rockers. I wouldnt think twice about putting them on in my next motor. I think it was well worth the money.

As for Crane doing the grinding for the guys in the eastern side of the states, CRANE SUCKS! Having blown up two of their cams and then trying to deal with them to get it fixed, no way! I would rather have the guy in california do it and pay for shipping just so I dont have to deal with Crane.

AARON
 
MrShoeBoy said:
I have the Yella Terra roller rockers and love them! The valvetrain noise that I had before with a Crane cam and standard factory rockers was all but gone with the Hesco cam I got and the Yella Terra Roller Rockers. I wouldnt think twice about putting them on in my next motor. I think it was well worth the money.

As for Crane doing the grinding for the guys in the eastern side of the states, CRANE SUCKS! Having blown up two of their cams and then trying to deal with them to get it fixed, no way! I would rather have the guy in california do it and pay for shipping just so I dont have to deal with Crane.

AARON

Good thing Joe gave me 2 recommended cam grinders,Huh.;)

Sooo, are you read for a Roller cam?

How about every one else.............................................

The minimal order is 6...................

The cam has been decide!!!!!!!!!:woohoo:

It will be the Early HO cam design.

Those that have a 99 or newer 4.0L, it will be as simply as........ buy the timing chain, sprockets and bolt (with pin and spring in it) from the 98 and older. The thrust cam plate for the 99 and newer will not be used in this HYD Roller Cam Blank.

Joe couldn't give a price until these decision's were made.

Should have a positve number buy the end of next week!!!!!!!

O and by the way, This cam will have a fuel pump lobe, for those in-line AMC/JEEP six cylinders Eng's that have a carburetor and require a mechanical fuel pump.


Flash.
 
I still think that the mechanical fuel pump lobe is as worthless as tits on a bull... :looney: but what are yah gonna do...

It's just an extra step in the process that's 99.999% unnecessary which will certainly add some dollars to an already spendy cam.... And I bet it's more than you think Flash :) Even if it's only 50 bucks that's still 50 bucks wasted for nearly every single purchase. If 25 of us buy this thing that's $1250.00 dollars tossed away for nothing... Think in terms of group buy, if 10 of us pony up then it's $500 dollars needlessly sent to Joe.

And don't give me the old "don't leave 258 owners out" they can buy an electric pump for probably LESS than the cost of that fuel pump lobe being addded :)!!!1 and a whole crap load less than the accumulated wasted dollars that 4.0 owners will be throwing away to pay for that unnecessary bump.
 
1bolt said:
I still think that the mechanical fuel pump lobe is as worthless as tits on a bull... :looney: but what are yah gonna do...

It's just an extra step in the process that's 99.999% unnecessary which will certainly add some dollars to an already spendy cam.... And I bet it's more than you think Flash :) Even if it's only 50 bucks that's still 50 bucks wasted for nearly every single purchase. If 25 of us buy this thing that's $1250.00 dollars tossed away for nothing... Think in terms of group buy, if 10 of us pony up then it's $500 dollars needlessly sent to Joe.

And don't give me the old "don't leave 258 owners out" they can buy an electric pump for probably LESS than the cost of that fuel pump lobe being addded :)!!!1 and a whole crap load less than the accumulated wasted dollars that 4.0 owners will be throwing away to pay for that unnecessary bump.

That is just not true. Have you ever done any mechanist work? if you have then you know that 99.9999% of the time is spent on set up. once it's set up you can mass produce a lot of product fast. In this case, cam blanks.

You have to remember that the fuel pump lobe is just one less lobe that doesn't have to be machined down to the stock center shaft diameter.

The cam's life will start as a round piece of billet. most of the machining will be done between the lobes.
Picture the cam bearing journals of a cam, then picture the cam lobes looking the exact same as the cam bearing suffices of the cam.
The cam grinder will be who taking the round shapes and turning them into cam lobes.
If you don't need the cam lobe for a carb type eng.......the grinder will simply not cut the round fuel pump lobe into....well into a fuel pump lobe.

I appreciate what your tying to say but the fuel pump lobe will only cost those that need it. Extra Cash will be give to the cam grinder, not the cam make (Joe) and only to those that will need the fuel pump surface turned into a lobe.

I know that there will be a vary small percentage that will need this lobe but why not if it is not going to cost any more (0 added dollar to the project.)

I wanted to post a pic on here to help every one to understand but by Photobucket won't up load any pic to night:dunno: :badpc:

Flash
 
Well if it's not costing anything then I'll shut up... I guess I just mistakenly remember from the discussion on the strokers group that it was "only minimal expense" or words to that effect. Minimal expense relative to an expensive custom cam could still be pretty expensive.

I'll just shut up anyway as there's no chance I can afford one of these right now as much as I might like to be able to buy one or two in the future.
 
1bolt said:
Well if it's not costing anything then I'll shut up... I guess I just mistakenly remember from the discussion on the strokers group that it was "only minimal expense" or words to that effect. Minimal expense relative to an expensive custom cam could still be pretty expensive.

I'll just shut up anyway as there's no chance I can afford one of these right now as much as I might like to be able to buy one or two in the future.

It's all good. :) and yes that was what we thought at first. but realized later that it actually required no more efforts to keep it......so why not.

Flash.
 
ALL THE NUMBERS ARE IN...........

This is what it will take to own a roller cam.
there must be 6 orders Before Joe will start.
Joe said that there must be at least 50% down on all 6 cam blanks

The price from Joe is: $485.25 for the cam blank.


The first Cam grind shop that Joe recommended is in California

"SCHNEIDER CAMS" There # IS 619-297-0227, Take to Jerry.
Price.... ......... $450

East coast(Florida) Then Crane was the
recommended cam grind shop.

Crane Cam's: talk to Chase Night at 386-252-1151 ext.#402

Cam Grind $468.00, (any profile) Chrome molly push rods "$80.00",
V8
Hyd Roller lifters ( set of 12)...Chase said that he would give us
the good guy discount $337.00..... .. is actual words were
the "installer discount"!

Flash
 
Is $337 for the roller cam alone? How much does a set of 12 AMC V8 roller lifters cost? Where do we get the lifter bar to stabilize the lifters? Does it need to be bolted to the block?
You mentioned chromemoly pushrods. Are these stock length? I'm only asking because I already have stock length Crower chromemoly pushrods in my stroker so if I can avoid buying another set, that would be great.
Sorry I'm asking so many questions but I'm just trying to picture which parts I'll need, how much they'll cost, and find out how easy the installation will be.
 
Dr. Dyno said:
Is $337 for the roller cam alone? How much does a set of 12 AMC V8 roller lifters cost? Where do we get the lifter bar to stabilize the lifters? Does it need to be bolted to the block?
You mentioned chromemoly pushrods. Are these stock length? I'm only asking because I already have stock length Crower chromemoly pushrods in my stroker so if I can avoid buying another set, that would be great.
Sorry I'm asking so many questions but I'm just trying to picture which parts I'll need, how much they'll cost, and find out how easy the installation will be.

$485 for the billet cam stock, or bar, with round lobes and spaces between lobe ground and cam/dist gear cut.

$450-$468 to have the cam blank ground into a actual cam.

Chrome molly push rods "$80.00",......I should have put as, or if needed.


Hyd Roller lifters ( set of 12)...Chase said that he would give us
the good guy discount $337.00..... .. is actual words were
the "installer discount"!..............I haven't check to see How much better that is then normal.

As far as the T bar (not sure of the proper terminology, but the metal strap that ties the two lifters together) i thing that the stock ones would work probably work just fine, but there was a guy by the name of Delk, on the Yahoo Stroker Group that was going to builds some longer ones, just for a safety measure that the stock ones could fall out.

Delk,said that the one lifter had to be lifted approximately .500 above the other to install the t-bar. .500 times rocker arm ratio 1.6.......You get the idea. I don't think we could get enough lift to cause the bar to come lose.

Flash
 
Weasel said:
So if we don't get one now is it going to be a one time deal or are these going to be avalible later on?

You can get one later, but not at this price.

and if we don't get 6 cams ordered there will be no cams made at all!...................


Flash.
 
Well I am planning on doing a 4.7 but it's going to be probably 2 months before I have the money, could be end of August but probably end of Sept, so I would be in for one then if you don't have six by that time.
 
Flash said:
$485 for the billet cam stock, or bar, with round lobes and spaces between lobe ground and cam/dist gear cut.

$450-$468 to have the cam blank ground into a actual cam.

Chrome molly push rods "$80.00",......I should have put as, or if needed.


Hyd Roller lifters ( set of 12)...Chase said that he would give us
the good guy discount $337.00..... .. is actual words were
the "installer discount"!..............I haven't check to see How much better that is then normal.

As far as the T bar (not sure of the proper terminology, but the metal strap that ties the two lifters together) i thing that the stock ones would work probably work just fine, but there was a guy by the name of Delk, on the Yahoo Stroker Group that was going to builds some longer ones, just for a safety measure that the stock ones could fall out.

Delk,said that the one lifter had to be lifted approximately .500 above the other to install the t-bar. .500 times rocker arm ratio 1.6.......You get the idea. I don't think we could get enough lift to cause the bar to come lose.

Flash

So is the total cost per engine going to be $485 (blank) + $450 (grinding) + $80 (pushrods) + $337 (lifters) = $1352 or am I missing something?
 
Dr. Dyno said:
So is the total cost per engine going to be $485 (blank) + $450 (grinding) + $80 (pushrods) + $337 (lifters) = $1352 or am I missing something?[/quote]

Nope, thats the number I ended up with too. Unless you don't need push rod.



Flash.
 
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