Rock Krawler vs. Ballistic Joints

Makes me wish I would have gotten a full set of rod ends from Dan at Ruff Stuff instead of Ballistic junk when I did my four link.

I guess his products are really good. Just wanted to warn others that the service may be lacking.
 
I guess his products are really good. Just wanted to warn others that the service may be lacking.

No, really, it was such a PITA I wish I would have just gotten some rod ends and maybe some Heretic Fab links to thread them into. And my oldest Ballistic joints had the crappy non-solid races.
 
Well I don't have time to read all four pages of that, and I've had absolutely no problem with ballistic, after about a dozen orders from them. So please keep the discussion of company policies in another thread, this is a discussion on fit and strength of the parts, thanks.

Got the drivers side done, I'll get the last link another day, I have some work to do on the CJ5.

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id be worried about running the grease fitting and set screw on the bottom
 
I am too, but they won't fit up top, they hit the bracket. I already replaced the grease zerk with one of the flat style. I may go try to find a shorter set screw that sits flush.
 
The zerks on my JJ are on the bottom, I wouldn't be able to get to them up top. I usually end up scraping them off during a run, but I just replace em every time and fill it back up with grease.
 
definitely would worry about the grease fitting. Would be a PITA but you might want to just put a grade 8 bolt in there if you can find one that small, carry the grease fitting with you and swap when needed. Shearing off a zerk in there would be a much bigger PITA than swapping the fittings when you need to grease, not to mention you will save having to go out and buy zerks after every run
 
I would agree the rock krawler joints are better than ballistic joints. Never had a single problem with my RK joints coming loose, making noise, breaking or wearing out in 3 years of wheeling and daily driving and I never greased them. I am now running ballistic joints with the solid races and they need maint. frequently. Setting the initial preload on them was a on going process, "pull the control arms off, tighten or loosen as necessary, grease, put arm back on and then set length." They also don't take grease well, and when they need grease "about once a monthfor me" they are very noisy. I called and talked to so many people at ballistic about how tight to set the preload on them and everyone was full of BS, 4 months latter I finally talked to someone at ballistic who told me what grease to use and how tight to run them. I know they look burly and un breakable but they are high maintenance! I wish I could tell everyone who wants them to buy Johnny joints instead, they are bad ass!
 
anyone who says rk joints are better than ballistic, is smoking crack, the rk's dont even have a set screw...... thats a XXXXing a JOKE....

the only probrem with ballistic joints, is the hallow race they sell em with.

The honeycomb race was simply trouble and is no longer available. All joints are shipped with the solid nylatron race even if it is overkill, just simpler that way.

mine are old and came with grease fittings. but i never got around to greasing them. and they hold up without grease so i cant complain.

i have had about a year of issues with my ballistic joints. had to adjust them every couple of weeks, and they made really bad noises and whatnot.

but i can't complain too much because dave at ballistic is helpin me out sending me all new stuff.

Let me know how the new parts workout. I sent more than you indicated needing as I figured it was better to have some extra stored in the garage for later use. :D

Dave at Ballistic Fab has screwed over a number of customers with unethical business practices and what seems like out right lies and theft. He will not get 1 cent of my hard earned money.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=985024&page=4

I would invite anyone who thinks this to feel free to contact me directly. I am more than happy to assist with any issue any customer has. I am typically able to solve issues IF I know they are at hand.

Being the face of a company can be trying. It is easy for everyone to remember your name and that isn't always the best thing when something goes awry.

Try me, if I don't offer top notch service, tell me and I will try again.

Makes me wish I would have gotten a full set of rod ends from Dan at Ruff Stuff instead of Ballistic junk when I did my four link.

If there is a current issue that I can help with, please send me a message and I will be glad to assist.

I guess his products are really good. Just wanted to warn others that the service may be lacking.

Again, I'd invite anyone to contact me, I am more than happy to help out.

No, really, it was such a PITA I wish I would have just gotten some rod ends and maybe some Heretic Fab links to thread them into. And my oldest Ballistic joints had the crappy non-solid races.

If you still have those joints, please let me know. I have some solution options that will likely help you quite a bit.

Dave
 
Just an FYI...

The RK kits no longer use those joints you posted. they now come with a Krawler joint that is significantly nicer, and larger...

Does have a lock screw and non greasable, no maintanence.
Krawlerjointssm.jpg
 
Looks like heavier constuction that the old style, but I don't trust anything non-greasable for offroading, if I got some of those I'd drill and tap in a grease zerk.

How long is the shank on those? The old ones were only 2", didn't leave a lot of room for adjustment.
 
Looks like heavier constuction that the old style, but I don't trust anything non-greasable for offroading, if I got some of those I'd drill and tap in a grease zerk.

How long is the shank on those? The old ones were only 2", didn't leave a lot of room for adjustment.

I am not to sure. I just snapped a few pictures before installing them on a customers jeep this weekend. I have another major kit install this weekend coming up and will pull one out to measure.
 
Looks like heavier constuction that the old style, but I don't trust anything non-greasable for offroading, if I got some of those I'd drill and tap in a grease zerk.

a billiondy people run heims offroad without issue

what is not to trust?
 
Every time I've tried to run non-greasable bearings of any kind they destroy themselves very quickly. Especially when I was living in Ohio and they were regularly submerged in mud and water. If you can't pump grease back through to get the water and grit out they just don't last. Just one of my complaints against unit bearings too, I was lucky if I got six months out of one, every time I replaced one you could spin it and hear and feel all the grit in it.

Even out here in the desert, the non-greasable rod ends on my steering were creaking and groaning after just a few months so I took them all off, dunked them in oil and worked the ball around to get all the grit out. I reckon I'll end up doing that on a regular basis.
 
Every time I've tried to run non-greasable bearings of any kind they destroy themselves very quickly. Especially when I was living in Ohio and they were regularly submerged in mud and water. If you can't pump grease back through to get the water and grit out they just don't last. Just one of my complaints against unit bearings too, I was lucky if I got six months out of one, every time I replaced one you could spin it and hear and feel all the grit in it.

Even out here in the desert, the non-greasable rod ends on my steering were creaking and groaning after just a few months so I took them all off, dunked them in oil and worked the ball around to get all the grit out. I reckon I'll end up doing that on a regular basis.

ive had good luck with heims in the northeast (on rig thats driven through the snowstorms when they are dumping piles of salt and sand in the streets)

the only time i had them wear out prematurely was due to clearance issues
 
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