Replaced TPS - Idle now WORSE!

peuglow said:
Hahahahah so not to pull a Bimmer, but as I'm tightening up the adjuster bolt on the idler pulley, it freaking snaps!!!!

Looks like it'll be another few days till this is done. I can only hope that I can get the remainer of the old bolt out and the new one in without removing the PS assembly.

Anyone have a part number for that bolt? Maybe I can just go to a hardware store for one.
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Part number is 3420 2480 for a 95 down, 6503 198 for 96 up.

Goofy knuckle thing: 5300 2915 for 95 down, 5301 0149 for 96 up.

peuglow said:
Quick question, what years would have the same adjustment bolt and the nut it and the pulley feed into as the 1996 XJ? Going to a pull a part tomorrow.
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I believe 96 through 01 should all have the same tensioner setup - checking now.

edit: 97-99 share the same part numbers as well, I'm just going to assume 00-01 also do
 
Thanks Ken. I was able to grab some previously loved parts from Jeeps Unlimited in Providence.

And Bimmer, the ceramic snapped during removal but I suspect it was already cracked beforehand. And one terminal had definitely disintegrated. These plugs have been on there a looong time
 
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I think you got money's worth worth out of those $ spark plugs, but I seriously doubt you got your money's worth out of the XXXX tanks of gas burned.:passgas:
 
Agreed! Like I said, not a mistake I'll make again. I can't believe how smooth the engine is running! Now I'm going to focus on some body issues and the gas tank.
 
Wouldn't bother. If it survived 5 years, it'll keep on going... fuel pumps are a "bathtub curve" type of thing failure wise.
 
If you had to put a number on it, what's the other end of that bathtub curve? 150k miles?
Or life of XJ? Probably not, right, because I have read plenty of fuel pump failures here...
 
The one in my renix went 170000 miles and still worked fine when I replaced it. Don't ask why lol
 
I dunno, but I haven't found it yet and I'm pushing 250k on my MJ. In fact when I installed the new sender assembly (it was super rusty) I put my 230k stock fuel pump back in because I trusted it more than the airtex that autozone wanted to sell me.

Still no problems with it so far.
 
It does seem like a part that I'd only swap if I had a new one that I got super cheap/free. I don't see the use in swapping a working one for a JY part.

If it ain't broke, you know?

My gas tank, on the other hand, has been leaking for 2+ years where the clam shell meets. I've gotten tired of only putting in 8 gallons at a time. Can't wait to swap that out.
 
Have you tried using an anaerobic sealant on the seam?

peuglow said:
It does seem like a part that I'd only swap if I had a new one that I got super cheap/free. I don't see the use in swapping a working one for a JY part.

If it ain't broke, you know?

My gas tank, on the other hand, has been leaking for 2+ years where the clam shell meets. I've gotten tired of only putting in 8 gallons at a time. Can't wait to swap that out.
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peuglow said:
No, never knew it was an option. I'll have to look into it!!
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The gas should clean the leak area good, just lower the fuel level, dry the spot with air, and push some gasoline proof anaerobic sealer in there and the iron (any rust) will catalyze the cure. Then you might reinforce it with a mini clamp and epoxy over the top till you have other reasons to pull the tank.
 
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The permatex stuff didn't get the greatest reviews on the Adv Auto website. I'm a bit hesitant to even attempt it now, although I guess I don't have much to lose other than like 7 bucks.

Going to check the tank out again and see exactly where it's weeping. Maybe it's a small area, maybe its a large section of the seam, I'm not sure. If it's more than a couple inches I'm going to just replace it I think. I have a spare already, so I might as well do it.

I emailed Permatex, we'll see what they have to say
 
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Good luck getting the stuff to go far enough in to actually seal the leak, I would want to apply it from the inside. It may work but I would not bet on it.

You get new J-bolts for the tank? They make it way easier to replace, I like to just cut em, drop the tank, get two new nylock nuts (3/8-16 thread) some flat washers and new J-bolts part number j3240023 so I don't have to spend an hour with a pair of vise grips and a gearwrench trying to back the nuts a few inches down a rusty j-bolt shank. If you don't get new ones, wire wheel the bolts below the nuts beffore you even try to move them.
 
kastein said:
Good luck getting the stuff to go far enough in to actually seal the leak, I would want to apply it from the inside. It may work but I would not bet on it.

You get new J-bolts for the tank? They make it way easier to replace, I like to just cut em, drop the tank, get two new nylock nuts (3/8-16 thread) some flat washers and new J-bolts part number j3240023 so I don't have to spend an hour with a pair of vise grips and a gearwrench trying to back the nuts a few inches down a rusty j-bolt shank. If you don't get new ones, wire wheel the bolts below the nuts beffore you even try to move them.
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I've been told the best thing to do is cut the J bolts. I just emailed a dealership looking for pricing. I know I could make them, but I'd rather pay a little extra cash to make it go a bit quicker. Maybe I can get them to toss in the nylock nuts for free haha :thumbup:
 
You can get them for 3-4 bucks online, hell with the dealer. Just don't use factorychryslerparts.com for any reason.
 
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