Repairing/leveling concrete slabs

KY Chris

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Louisville, KY
When I built my garage, we poured a slab adjacent to an existing slab that had a building on it. We tore down the exterior wall between the two slabs and I now have two slabs that aren't level. They range from about 1-2" above the original slab at one end to 1-2" below the the original slab at the other end. Is there a topping compound that I can use to smooth the transition? It's too much to grind, so I'd like to feather the edges together. Any suggestions? I'm afraid if I just use regular sackcrete on tob of the original slab, it'll crack off.

KY Chris
 
KY Chris said:
When I built my garage, we poured a slab adjacent to an existing slab that had a building on it. We tore down the exterior wall between the two slabs and I now have two slabs that aren't level. They range from about 1-2" above the original slab at one end to 1-2" below the the original slab at the other end. Is there a topping compound that I can use to smooth the transition? It's too much to grind, so I'd like to feather the edges together. Any suggestions? I'm afraid if I just use regular sackcrete on tob of the original slab, it'll crack off.

KY Chris
inbeforeJesmakessomeworthlesscommentonyourreputation.
inbeforePPPtellsyouaboutsomethingthatmakesnosense.

Legos?
Do you need it for structural? or just to get Beezil from one end to the other without the lil critter falling due to the difference?

I have seen good results from the concrete with fibers in it. Still requires some grinding etc.... but looked ok. Not sure how well it lasts though.
Glenn
 
You need to talk to a professional concrete guy. I believe they have a mix special for doing that. Glen is correct in that you will still have to grind (for a surface for the new stuff to stick to). You may also want to consider pouring a 2" pad over all of it (If you have the space). There are also companies who can pump concrete under pressure through holes drilled in the concrete to level the pad by raising the low end. May want to do some research with a local concrete contractor.
 
If you want to tackle it yourself, Sakrete will actually do a decent job. The largest aggregate in Sakrete is about 3/4 of an inch, which is not very large as coarse aggregate in concrete. You will want to "scarify" the surface of the old concrete to promote adhesion. Wire brush will help, or sandblasting -- anything to roughen up the surface and get you below any surface contamination.

You also want a bonding agent. Professionals use epoxy, but if you screw up with it you'll never get it all off. Instead, I recommend the following:

1. Use a latex admixture when mixing your Sakrete. The "name" in the industry is Laticrete. What you're looking for is a white-ish latex liquid that comes in gallon jugs. Replace one gallon of mix water with one gallon of Laticrete.

2. The more water you add to the Sakrete, the easier it is to push the stuff around -- and the weaker the concrete. Go for a mix that provides around 3,000 to 3,500 psf strength.

3. In addition to the Sakrete pre-mix concrete, buy a bag of straight Portland cement (not "mortar mix"). The smallest bag they have will do. This will be your bonding agent. Just before you're ready to place the concrete, mix up a "slurry" (a soupy mix) of Portland cement, water, and some Laticrete. Dampen the concrete floor first -- you want it visibly damp, but no actual water standing on the surface. Then brush on and scrub in a thin coat of the Portland cement slurry. Be sure to really work it into the old concrete. Then put your new concrete on top of this before the slurry dries. It'll help the topping stick to the old concrete.
 
As an ex-concrete repair man, I'd recommend using the epoxy method Eagle described above. The same directions as the Lacrete, but with an epoxy based compound. Also, make sure the original slab is CLEAN!

What do you need for durability? Do you want it to look nice? And, how long do you want it to last. The more "liquid" the mix, the easier it is to work with, but it is much more likely to crack- especially with temperature and pressure changes (summer to winter and driving on it)

If looks and durability are important to you, good luck. It is extremely difficult to get the mix in the correct proportions by trial and error. Especially when you only have one shot. Even with epoxy, results can vary depending on preparation and finish quality.

-Jon
 
It's not a structure issue. It's more asthetics and yeah, to keep me from tripping over it. After looking at it again this morining, it's not as bad as I stated. I've been living with it for a year. At the back end of the garage, the two slabs are even, but as it tapers towards the door, the original slab falls of to about 1.5". The apron is the height of the new slab, so there is a section of about a foot under the overhead door where the apron is slightly higher than the original slab. I know pictures would be better. I will try and post some later. I think the epoxy method may be my best bet.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Chris, I work for a manufacturer of the types of product you are looking for. PM your location, I can find a dealer in your area, and I can get you the number to our technical service department. Those guys can just about do anything with concrete, or toppings, and patches you could ever think about.
 
Run a Google for "Thoro" products. They make all sorts of concrete patching and repair products, and they have some made for patching concrete pavements that would probably be ideal for making a tapered transition to even out your slabs. "Highway Patch" rings a bell, but I haven't looked at their catalog for a long time.
 
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