Renix hatch window seal question

[djgrayxj]

I have an 88XJ Laredo 4X4 with Auto Trans and NP242.
Here is my problem contrary to the song it does rain hear once in a while in Southern California.
And after our last winter rain in that my XJ is an outside Jeep (garage is full of everything but cars) I found wet carpet back by the spare tire.

I have looked at a number of post hear on regarding how to R & R my back glass. I think I have the procedure down pretty clear in my mind.

So here is my question all of the posts that I looked at were not generated because of a leaking between the hatch glass opening and the window glass gasket which is my problem. So there was no mention of replacing the gasket. But I decided that there was a reasonable probability that the reason that mine was leaking is that it is old and dried out. Very typical problem hear in So Ca. Windshield wipers last one season and the need to be replaced etc. What do you Renix era XJ owners think?

Now I ran into my next problem if I do try and replace the gasket with a new one my local Jeep dealer looked on their computer and told me there were no OEM replacement “SEAL, Lift Door Glass, 1987-'96 P# 55007134 or P# 55007135” available in a Jeep dealership; part is discounted.

Team Cherokee, Quadratec & Rockauto have a replacement Liftgate Window Seal listed in their catalogs for the 1987-'96XJ. But what I don’t know is whether all of these included years had the chrome accent surrounding their rear windows that by Laredo has or not. And so far I have only received one return response and that was from Rockauto and they don’t know whether their gasket has a grove for me to insert my trim peace’s into or not.

Were these trim peace standard on all models?

 

[Saudade]

According to my part's guide, the 5500 7135 has groove for the molding. The ....134 does not. Since it sounds like it's only available in the aftermarket so you may need to go sans trim.

As for "standard", I can't say. All I know is I have an 88 Laredo with the chrome package and have no such trim piece on mine. None of my other windows do either.

 

[Shorty]

According to my part's guide, the 5500 7135 has groove for the molding. The ....134 does not. Since it sounds like it's only available in the aftermarket so you may need to go sans trim.

As for "standard", I can't say. All I know is I have an 88 Laredo with the chrome package and have no such trim piece on mine. None of my other windows do either.

X2^^ every bit of that-- I don't know that I've seen the chrome window trim on anything other than the Wagoneer and early Pioneer ('84-'86) models. I know my '88 Laredo with chrome package doesn't have any of it, sadly.

 

[djgrayxj]

Note from DJ
Thanks Saudade & Shorty for the reply.

My ‘88 Laredo has chrome bumpers’ chrome power mirrors, chrome rain gutters, chrome trimmed windshield, chrome grill and 3/ 8 “wide chrome trim inserted into back window seal. Ireally want to find
The 5500 7135 seal if I need to replace the one I have.

 

[Saudade]

Well, good luck to you. If the dealerships are out, only option may be a JY. In that case you run the risk of an old, dried out gasket as well.

FWIW, I also have chrome bumpers, mirrors, grill, door handles, badges, gutters, headlamp surrounds, and the trim around the front windshield (and may a few more pieces) but none on the rear gasket. Didn't even know there was an option.

If you're sure it's the rear gasket and not the side panel, then the $45 @ TC may be worth it to stop the water entry while you hunt for the other one.

Also, you can always try removing the interior trim piece and trying to get some silicone under the lip.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Are you entirely sure it's the window gasket, and not the main hatch gasket? The latter is where my 87 leaked. Worn hinges made it close sloppily.

 

[djgrayxj]

Note from DJ
Thanks again for the posts; maybe I have a one of a kind XJ. In that case I need to rearrange the garage and put it up on a pedestal for display.

Saudade mine one-ups yours in chrome. If you are located in the San Gabriel Valley and send me a PM with your location I might stop by some day and we can compare notes.

Matthew Currie Yes it is the window gasket. If I raise the hatch to a level position and take a water can and pour a small amount of water on the glass I have no leak. But if I repeat this test by pouring water into the channel between the hatch and the seal; the moment I reach the top left corner I end up with almost a stream running out on the end side.

 

[Matthew Currie]

When I had leaky vent windows, someone on this forum (or perhaps its predecessor - this goes way back) suggested rubbing silicone grease on the rubber gasket at the leaking joint. This seemed pretty unlikely, but in fact it worked. Something about the silicone keeps the water from migrating past it. It seems like a long shot, but then again, pretty cheap to try.

 

[Saudade]

I'm down in the OC. You *do* have a bit more bling.

Not sure what else to suggest though.

I did run into a issue with the left side column stalk with the cruise control once. I searched and searched for a replacement but couldn't find a chrome one. Luckily, it was a broken wire that was easily fixed. I just couldn't swap out the chrome for plain ol' black (no offense to the bling-less ones!) so I know how you feel.

It's amazing how many chrome doo-dads this thing really has.

 

[Ecomike]

When I had leaky vent windows, someone on this forum (or perhaps its predecessor - this goes way back) suggested rubbing silicone grease on the rubber gasket at the leaking joint. This seemed pretty unlikely, but in fact it worked. Something about the silicone keeps the water from migrating past it. It seems like a long shot, but then again, pretty cheap to try.

Silicone(s) has a very low surface tension, it is a surface tension trick. The Windshield glass treatments (Rain-X ?) use a silicone compound as well. Silicone around a paint job (some silicones, not all) will keep the paint from sticking, causes fish eyes..., not all silicones are alike, but some have extremely low surface tension and do some very odd stuff as a result.

 

[Ecomike]

Are you entirely sure it's the window gasket, and not the main hatch gasket? The latter is where my 87 leaked. Worn hinges made it close sloppily.

X2 on that question. I have never seen a rear window leak, or bad gasket on that glass.

That said, I would go to a local auto glass installer and ask them who they buy their gaskets from. There is a large wholesaler they buy from in Houston (or did 20 years ago), but you need a part number or sample first, and just buy it by the foot.

 

[djgrayxj]

Note from DJ

Update I found the seal #55007135 I was searching for on E-bay in unused and as new condition.

The photo shows the grove in the seal I will need to reinstall my trim peace’s into so I ordered it, I may have it in time as a Xmas present to myself, delivery date is the 23 or 24. So I will be watching for new box to appear falling down the chimney.

About 1 hour after placing by order on E-bay I receive an email from Team Grand Wagoneer .com in reply to my email to them on 12-17-2011.

MY email asked this question;
“I have a question regarding this part OE 84-86 TAILGATE GLASS SEAL#55007134
My question to you regarding your seal is does your seal have a grove in the middle of the exterior portion for me to install my existing chrome trim into”.

Their response was “Yes this does accept the chrome trim”.

Note they have it listed as P#55007134 which is the OEM part # for the seal without the molding grove. So there is some misinformation somewhere.

For now I am not going to seek further clarification from TGW on this matter until I open and examine my E-bay Xmas present. I will post update later.

Again thanks to all who have responded to my plea for help.

 

[Saudade]

Nicely done.

If TC does have the grooved strip, I think they need to catalog it differently. I'd hate to order the ...134 and get one with a groove.

Keep us posted and post a pic!

 

[tjmotter]

I guess you are going to have to drive up to North Houston to check one out. :rattle:

I have had a nagging water leak from the rear liftgate since I bought it a couple of months ago. I thought it was the edge seal but after replacing it with a new one, the leak slowed but was still there. I sat smoking a cigar trying to figure out where it might be leaking from when I noticed that the window trim had a 1/8" gap across the top (right in the middle of the glass). This was curious so I started to closely examine the hatch only to find that years in the Texas sun seems to have caused the liftgate to bow. In fact, the left/right sides are lower than the top of the roof while the center of the hatch extends above the roof line (it is now a small air dam). This created a gap between the top of the window trim and the hatch which was allowing water to seep in. Once the rubber gasket filled up with water, it would start to drip into the rear of the XJ. Worse, the inside of the gasket wasn't actually touching the frame. I could probably remove it without breaking the glass.

To give you an idea of how much flex is there, I reached inside and proceeded to press the window gasket up so that it would seal against the body. Good idea in concept but since it was now 1/8" higher than it used to be, the top of the glass was now almost out of the gasket. When I had my wife slam the front door, I could feel air blow past the seal :-(. I ended up centering it a little to get a better window seal and then covering inside/outside liberally with Permatex to get it to seal.

Looks like the leak is gone.

I know from other projects that Fiberglass panels can often be "adjusted" by leaving them in the sun on a hot day with weights on them. I never expected to have to do this to my XJ but it looks like I'm going to have to try once things warm up down here.

X2 on that question. I have never seen a rear window leak, or bad gasket on that glass.

That said, I would go to a local auto glass installer and ask them who they buy their gaskets from. There is a large wholesaler they buy from in Houston (or did 20 years ago), but you need a part number or sample first, and just buy it by the foot.