removing stubborn spring pack

[the_chief]

I'm removing the LR pack for my aal, and I couldn't free the bolt from the eye to frame (front) mount. The bolt is stuck in the sleeve in the bushing. I ended up cutting the bolt to drop the pack. I brought the pack up on my bench, and I still can't free the damn bolt from the metal insert in the bushing. I tried to press it, and broke a pretty large vise in the process (you know, the old steel tubing over the vise handle trick).

Any thoughts on banging it out? I've tried to beat it with a hammer, press it with clamps/vise, soaked the hell out of it with pb blaster.

Is my only option to bring it to someone now? If so, who should I bring it to? Thanks in advance.

dave

 

[cjmatt]

drill or torch

 

[Nihil]

isnt that bolt threaded into the bushing? so pressing it out wont work. like he said drill it out out with a good titanium bit or torch it, which will ruin your bushing, but you might want to get new ones anyway.

 

[small pederson]

no the bolt is not threaded into the sleeve. burn out the bushing

 

[Eagle]

No, it's not threaded, just solidly rusted. I would try really drenching it in PB Blaster for a couple of days. Then buy a short pength of pipe nipple the same ID as the bushing, set the bushing over that, and use a large punch (or another bolt) and a BFH to try to drive the old shank out. An air chisel with a punch bit would be ideal if you have one. The goal is to have something solid backing up the bushing (sleeve) so the impact loosens the shank in the sleeve.

 

[the_chief]

and for that bolt I cut out, do I need a jeep(r) bolt, or replace with grade8 equivalent? stealership wants 9 bucks and a few days to order. (Feel free to post a link to one on the internet.)

thanks guys, i appreciate the help.

 

[Eagle]

and for that bolt I cut out, do I need a jeep(r) bolt, or replace with grade8 equivalent? stealership wants 9 bucks and a few days to order. (Feel free to post a link to one on the internet.)

thanks guys, i appreciate the help.

I believe it's metric, and because the nut is welded into the frame it's not going to be easy to convert to an SAE thread. I'd say just buy the Mopar bolt. If you want to check prices, e-mail Todd or Fran at [email protected]. They won't recognize my screen name -- just tell them you got the e-mail from Eric Giordano's friend with all the MJs and they'll know who it is.

I have used SAE equivalent bolts for the rear eye, in the shackle end where there's an exposed nut. Don't remember what size, though. I think it was a 14mm and I used 9/16" -- does that sound right?

 

[the_chief]

I believe it's metric, and because the nut is welded into the frame

I think it was a 14mm and I used 9/16" -- does that sound right?

sounds right.

On a side note, I broke the weld on that very same nut taking out the right pack. I ended up cutting out the floor under the rear seat to fish the nut out of the frame, and get it back on that bolt. This is my first lift, and a true learning experience. Hopefully I'll be done soon. Thanks again.

 

[red91]

I was wondering too guys... I couldn't even break mine LOOSE ! Got a low miler, one owner from Cleavland, OH. Soaked it in PB Blaster for a couple of weeks and used a air gun to try and remove. Air Gun falied to make a dent. Tried LARGE FN breaker bar. No go. Decided at this point to add leaves and left original top spring in. Didn't want to cut the floor, a.) since I didn't know where, and b.) bad things happen when I don't know what I'm doing ( or have instructions.)

Can I do ANYTHING other than cut the floor? And where do I cut the floor if I decide to go that route later?

 

[the_chief]

I suppose if it spun but didn't come out, your nut-weld may already be broken. Lift the back seat, the hole will be all the way forward in the compartment under the seat, to the wall and back about three inches, near the closest press dent in the floor. Drill a few holes and you'll see it! I took pictures of the floor, I'll post them for you tomorrow, it was easy.

 

[red91]

I suppose if it spun but didn't come out, your nut-weld may already be broken. Lift the back seat, the hole will be all the way forward in the compartment under the seat, to the wall and back about three inches, near the closest press dent in the floor. Drill a few holes and you'll see it! I took pictures of the floor, I'll post them for you tomorrow, it was easy.

No didn't spin. Almost wish it did!! had about 150lbs of air behind the gun and no GO !!

 

[the_chief]

i had to use a socket with a 6 foot long lever, I think that's how i managed to spin the metal bushing inside the rubber bushing.

 

[sidriptide]

my shakle/rear eye bolts were the hardest part of my lift.. i bought new mopar bolts for both side in anticipation of cutting them.. only cut one bolt of the 6 though.... heres my question to the original post though.... why drop the entire spring to do an AAL???? could have been done right on the vehicle.. (i know hind sight sux sometimes) and would have given you less grief... if you cant get the bolt out of the bushing with PB and brute force its probably time to cut it out and replace the bolt and bushing with new.. since the heat required to get the old rusty bolt out of the old rusty bushing will ruin the rubber anyways... good luck, this is probably the most agravating part of any lift..

mike

 

[Codeman]

would it be a stupid move to cut the bolt at the rail, drill it out, drill another hole on the other side of the rail, and stick a long bolt all the way through and stick a nut on it? I couldn't get mine off to put my springs on, so I went out and bought some blocks for now (suck suck suck)

 

[redyouch]

this is what i did. the bolt froze in the bushing, i got it out as far as possible. then i cut the end off. then i removed the leaf by pulling it out and twisting. this resulted in the nut breaking off inside. then i took my angle grinder and made a small cut UNDER where the bolt goes on. i think this is alot easier than doing it on the inside. i did it on the inside of my old jeep, and it was so much more difficult. this looks alot cleaner, and you dont get shit inside your car. also, it makes access to the bolt very easy. you dont have to have half of yourself in the car and the other half tightening. good luck with it. also, u can use the bolts from the shackles to rear springs, and just get new 1/2" bolts and nuts for the shackles. also, the LCA bolts are the same size and pitch.

-chris

 

[ZAC]

had to cut away at the old bushing on mine and drive a pair of vice grips up there and grabbed onto the sleeve. with a huge breaker bar and cheater on that was able to crank on the bolt out while holding the sleeve with the vice grips. the key was to get a hold of the sleeve at the seam so the vice grips actually had something to get a hold of while you were turning the bolt. Ended up the bolt was just rusted to the sleeve. all of this after gallons of PB of course.

 

[The_Rock]

I had to cut a front rear spring eye bolt on my first lift and had the same problem with getting a Jeep metric bolt on a weekend. I figured out that the front lower control arm bolts are the same so I moved one back and put a standard bolt through the front with a nut. It got it back on the road.

 

[xjwoody]

I had to cut a front rear spring eye bolt on my first lift and had the same problem with getting a Jeep metric bolt on a weekend. I figured out that the front lower control arm bolts are the same so I moved one back and put a standard bolt through the front with a nut. It got it back on the road.

I had the same situation, but I used the rear spring eye bolt on the front spring eye (same bolt, also). Then ran a beefy bolt/nut/washer combo through the rear eye.

 

[the_chief]

i ended up stealing the bolt from the eye to shackle to replace it. I broke this nut too, and had to cut the floor again on this side. I replaced the shackle bolt with some grade 8 hardware from ace. Thanks to everyone who helped. It is now rolling, and quite well. I am excited. I have heard a few creaks from the drivetrain, but for now, I'll pretend it's still settling in. Look for those threads in the near future. :dunce:

here it is, thanks again

i don't know why the pic won't load, but here it is
http://www.precisionwood.com/xj.htm

 

[BPB]

what i have found works realy well is to drench it in pb blaster use an air impact wrench when it is out of the threading use a pickle fork and pry it out against the mount on the frame. I know it is too late for you, but for future references, as for your situation, try using a heat gun, or an infered heat lamp (like what you use for reptile aquariums) in conjunction with beating the hell out of it. Just my two cents.


-Ben