Rear drum woes (photos)

[wilcharl]

If anyone was following my previous thread regarding my rear brake drums here is a photo of the damage that caused the rear wheel locking... does anything look out of place or wrong short of the missing friction material. I am trying to figure out what could have caused this everything seems to check out okay ... good hydrlcs. etc...

 

[old_man]

Its hard for me to see, but it appears that you have the shoes correctly. The leading shoe has the smaller friction surface. I would take the brake shoes back for warranty. They should never break up like that. Next time spend an extra $5 and get the complete brake hardware kits. It will give you all the springs and hardware new and no rust/corrosion.

 

[langer1]

It looks to me like your brake cables are binding up.

 

[willyb]

I concur with oldMan and would say that's a manufacturing problem... Take 'em back an see what they'll do for ya...

Will.

 

[wilcharl]

would u beleive those springs were new oldman (put them on with the shoes back in 2000) the florida salty air i think took a hit on them... i ordered new springs and wagner thermoquiet bonded shoes ... thats why i was wondering about brands
the wheel cyls look good so they are the only thing staying everyhting else is going wagner... funny thing was last time everything went raybestos pg plus but i guess they werent the bestos

 

[old_man]

That crack is pretty wide. For it to open that much, things must have gotten pretty hot. I've never seen linings move on the shoe. Maybe you actually got rust under the linings?

Remember that when you put it back together, the short shoe goes to the front.

 

[RyleyF]

What kinda axle is that? I know that on my 89's Dana 35, when I got rear brake pads, every one was identical, didn't matter which way they went on.

 

[wilcharl]

Its a 35 on a 1988 the cheaper Bendix brakes had identical pads for both sides i think some brands of pads don't have the correct leading/trailing shoes

 

[langer1]

Its a 35 on a 1988 the cheaper Bendix brakes had identical pads for both sides i think some brands of pads don't have the correct leading/trailing shoes

I had that same problem and as I said it turned out to be the brake cables would cause the one shoe to drag. As the rear bounced up and down they would creep and pull on one shoe, after I changed the cables the problem went away.

 

[Piece-by-piece]

I have the exact same symptoms (unresolved). I can manually adjust the shoes, but they begin grabbing/sticking after the first hard brake or after a few rounds of moderate braking.

I've changed all the shoe hardware, the shoes (twice), the wheel cylinders, the rubber splitter/junction hose, and the 2 shorter brake line segments. And, of course, in the process I've flushed through several gallons of new brake fluid!

I have NOT yet replaced the proportioning valve or the brake cables.

I have a suspicion that its a sticking brake cable, and-- my suspicion reinforced by Langer1's advice, I think I'll look at them next.

Thanks for the thread!