Next weekend I am going to install a 4.5" Rubicon Express lift with the DPG Offroad extras, a slip yoke eliminator and new rear axle. Aside from normal sockets and wrenches, are there any necessary or nice to have tools to make the job easier? How about fluids, grease or other essentials? Any tips??? Thanks for the help.
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RE Lift Installation Tools - What are needed???
- Thread starter chilibill
- Start date
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
lock ring pliers
grease gun with lithium grease
floor jack
jack stands
hammer
bigger hammer
flare nut wrench (to R+R the brake lines)
Propane/Mapp gas Torch to heat stubborn parts
Big air tank and impact tools
time
another vehicle handy to run to bolt/nut store for parts while the XJ is apart
t-case fluid (ATF) is good to have
PB Blaster
Anti-seize (sp?)
brake fluid
what does "new rear axle" mean?
for the SYE:
12 PT socket (10 or 12mm cant remember which)
if you have to pull the shafts in the d35:
the nut on the cross shaft is a 12pt - dont remember the size.. 3/8?
good luck!
grease gun with lithium grease
floor jack
jack stands
hammer
bigger hammer
flare nut wrench (to R+R the brake lines)
Propane/Mapp gas Torch to heat stubborn parts
Big air tank and impact tools
time
another vehicle handy to run to bolt/nut store for parts while the XJ is apart
t-case fluid (ATF) is good to have
PB Blaster
Anti-seize (sp?)
brake fluid
what does "new rear axle" mean?
for the SYE:
12 PT socket (10 or 12mm cant remember which)
if you have to pull the shafts in the d35:
the nut on the cross shaft is a 12pt - dont remember the size.. 3/8?
good luck!
XJ- ranger,
re: - "what does "new rear axle" mean?"
Thanks for the information. I meant rear drive shaft.
Do you know the size of the flare nut wrench for the brakes? What is PB Blaster?
I imagine the front drive shaft (1990 XJ) has factory U-joints. Are they strong enough for rock climbing or should I replace them while I have the vehicle off the ground? If so, what would you recommend?
re: - "what does "new rear axle" mean?"
Thanks for the information. I meant rear drive shaft.
Do you know the size of the flare nut wrench for the brakes? What is PB Blaster?
I imagine the front drive shaft (1990 XJ) has factory U-joints. Are they strong enough for rock climbing or should I replace them while I have the vehicle off the ground? If so, what would you recommend?
mrbill3
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Coast, CA.
I agree with Ranger's list, but I would say you would want 2 floor jacks instead of 1. This will help to "persuade" things back into place. Much like the bigger hammer helps to "persuade" things out of place!
Ramsey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
a friend or two, and a bigger hammer than xj rangers. twice the time that you had planned and a ton patience. your stock driveshaft joints will be fine
VegasAnthony
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas
chilibill said:
start using pb blaster on all associated nuts and bolts every other day untill the install
if this is your first lift install
I wouldnt count on finishing it in one weekend
ohh and my personal favorite is a come along to get that front axle lined up when yoiu start putting on the control arms
I have found that a engine hoist with a cahin to lift the entire front end up makes the removal of the springs a whole lot easier
and btw you should have the 260 u joints in the front axles which are quite weak so you can prolly start seaching for some newer axles withthe 297x u joints and while you are waitng for them to arrive better scrounge up a 36mm socket
to ge the old ones off
ps
Have fun hasta
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
VegasAnthony said:
or a floor jack and a pipe wrench...
to Chillbill:
the flare nut wrench should be a 3/8" flare IIRC... not sure...
PB Blaster (available at most auto parts stores) looks like this:
and is a penatrant that helps to get stuck and old bolts out.
for 2.00 a can - it cant hurt to have around
NO- it isnt the same as WD-40
YES-Liquid Wrench is an inferior product
Your front driveshaft should do just fine - though you *might* have to take it off depending on what SYE package you got. Checking the u-joints isnt a bad plan.
The Haynes/Chilton manual has a decent explination on that.
When you set up your front driveline, the control arms determine the driveshaft angle as well as the castor angle.
here is more than you ever wanted to know about driveline - but remember that you cant change the castor other than with the control arm lengths - so when i set mine up:
http://www.opiebennett.com/upperdrrveshaft.htm
i picked a happy medium and ended up with something like 3* castor and 11* pinon angle when i really needed 13* pinion angle and 6-7* castor.
here is the driveline link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html
also remember to budget $$$ and time after the lift to get an alignment for tire wear, death woble cure, and to center the steering wheel.
to adjust your steering wheel to get to the alignment shop:
http://www.opiebennett.com/Steering.htm
budget more time than you think you'll need, however, working on one end at at time (front or rear) would be the best idea, because you can drive a 1/2 lifted jeep for a week while you wait for time to get the other half done.
I have no reason to believe that a bolt on lift would take a first timer more than a weekend - especialy if someone who is going to be helping you has done one before.
Also a 1/2" ? drill bit for the Upper Control Arm Drop Brackets is a good idea to have around.
read more on installing thoes here:
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html
here is a RE 4.5" lift install by Yucca Man:
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/45lift.html
To Ramsey:
I will clober you with my hammer, and then you will no longer need a hammer larger than mine because i will use some steroids and be able to dead lift a cutlas 442 and throw it on you! Crushing you to a little pulp.
for 2.00 a can - it cant hurt to have around
NO- it isnt the same as WD-40
YES-Liquid Wrench is an inferior product
Your front driveshaft should do just fine - though you *might* have to take it off depending on what SYE package you got. Checking the u-joints isnt a bad plan.
The Haynes/Chilton manual has a decent explination on that.
When you set up your front driveline, the control arms determine the driveshaft angle as well as the castor angle.
here is more than you ever wanted to know about driveline - but remember that you cant change the castor other than with the control arm lengths - so when i set mine up:
http://www.opiebennett.com/upperdrrveshaft.htm
i picked a happy medium and ended up with something like 3* castor and 11* pinon angle when i really needed 13* pinion angle and 6-7* castor.
here is the driveline link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html
also remember to budget $$$ and time after the lift to get an alignment for tire wear, death woble cure, and to center the steering wheel.
to adjust your steering wheel to get to the alignment shop:
http://www.opiebennett.com/Steering.htm
budget more time than you think you'll need, however, working on one end at at time (front or rear) would be the best idea, because you can drive a 1/2 lifted jeep for a week while you wait for time to get the other half done.
I have no reason to believe that a bolt on lift would take a first timer more than a weekend - especialy if someone who is going to be helping you has done one before.
Also a 1/2" ? drill bit for the Upper Control Arm Drop Brackets is a good idea to have around.
read more on installing thoes here:
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html
here is a RE 4.5" lift install by Yucca Man:
http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/45lift.html
To Ramsey:
I will clober you with my hammer, and then you will no longer need a hammer larger than mine because i will use some steroids and be able to dead lift a cutlas 442 and throw it on you! Crushing you to a little pulp.
shonuff
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Marquette, Michigan
air tools helped alot on installing my RE 3.5 lift. PB blaster is definitely a good idea, soak everything you can, had to use some heat on a couple things too.
took me days instead of hours, and the hardest thing for me was getting out the pressed in posts for the stock sway bar connects. that was with help from a couple guys. Oh, and beer and food for the guys who know what they're doing
enjoy!
josh
took me days instead of hours, and the hardest thing for me was getting out the pressed in posts for the stock sway bar connects. that was with help from a couple guys. Oh, and beer and food for the guys who know what they're doing
enjoy!
josh
Berwolf
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Detroit, Mi
Also a spring compressor is a good thing to have on hand, and if you have AAL then you will want a couple clamps, and a grinder to chop down your new center pins. Lastly drill and tap because the shocks in the rear suck. I broke all four the top bolts, needless to say it was not fun spending half the day drilling and tapping.
