Quick pre-look at my '99 Frog with 33" BFG KM2's

[rocknxj]

Here I am getting a little ahead by removing my stock sway bar end links. This is a good shot that show use of a cheap ball joint removal tool and the splines on the end of the pressed-in torx bolt.

And oh my, what a nifty 3/8" Dana 30 diff cover with counter sunk hardware, 3/4" stainless fill plug, and drain plug from Ruff Stuff Specialties.

 

[rocknxj]

OK, I'm really bored now.

Here's a shot of the stock end link with the RE quick disco version next to it. Anybody need a stock set in perfect shape for their DD?

 

[rocknxj]

You know, nothing is ever easy for me. When I started out installing my SYE a couple of weeks ago, I hit snag after snag. First problem was getting the OE TC skid bolts free. An hour with the grinder and I finally got all of them removed.

Then I struggled with the driveshaft bolts. A few trips to the store for ez outs remedied that situation, but that is sooo frustrating.

Got the transfer case cover removed, parts out, and new stuff ready to roll. I suggest definitely buying a set of large snap ring pliers for the one large snap ring, and a decent set of split ring pliers for the rest. That would have cut my time in half, I do believe. Yeah, that was another trip to Sears.

Here's a good shot of the new output shaft from Advance Adapters. Very cool.

During reassembly, do not force the oil pump or you'll freaking break one of the tabs like I did. No fear, as it seems to be working well without it. Hey, less weight is good, right?

The final shot is everything reassembled and working fine.

This project took me a while but I could do it again in under 5 hours. Not that I ever want to do it again, mind you...

 

[Letterman]

Then I struggled with the driveshaft bolts. A few trips to the store for ez outs remedied that situation, but that is sooo frustrating.

This is a great example of why EVERYONE should upgread to the U-bolt style Yoke!!!!

If you think it is hard in your driveway, try it on the trail, when your drive shaft has popped off from hitting a rock and sheered all 4 bolts off in the yoke. With the U-bolt style the broken off parts slide right out.

Also if it is not already on your list get some mini-skids for your front LCA Mounts. Don't be one more person that rips off the mounts from his axle.

Just my 2 cents, great thread keep it comming.

 

[rocknxj]

I want to see a pic of your u-bolt yoke. I'll get one for each XJ.

 

[playwithit]

I want to see a pic of your u-bolt yoke. I'll get one for each XJ.

Here's the thread with details.eace:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=999985&highlight=u-bolt+yoke

 

[Letterman]

Yeah it gets rid of the 4 bolts and 2 straps and puts in 2 u-bolts like this:

No more bolts threaded in your yoke! Make sure you use lock washers.

This can save you hours when you loose your drive shaft and sheer off the bolts, just remember to bring trail spairs. If you have the strap style I would buy spairs too. Some say you can just drill out your yoke, but I think that a dumb idea with the small wall of cast, and would tell people I like to just get new yokes.

With a 30/44 get 3 yokes and have a trail spair.

 

[rocknxj]

I guess I see the benefit of the u-bolts on the trail, but it looks like I would need to swap out the Chrysler 8.25 diff yoke to allow the new u-bolts to fit. That adds another 60 bucks to the order.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/images/yoke-axle-dana44.jpg

 

[Letterman]

I guess I see the benefit of the u-bolts on the trail, but it looks like I would need to swap out the Chrysler 8.25 diff yoke to allow the new u-bolts to fit. That adds another 60 bucks to the order.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/images/yoke-axle-dana44.jpg

$60? It is more like $180 for front, rear and a trail spair.

Building it right costs a lot, and it is all the small details like this that I think pay off in the long run. Think about it, the U-joint at the drive shaft axle yoke is one of the best places for the weak link in the drive chain. As it very easy to put a new $20 U-Joint and U-bolts back on, now if you have to find a way to remove a sheered off bolt or two . . .


But the Mini Skids are cheep, maybe $40 at most shipped, and that can save you lots of issues:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1023349

 

[playwithit]

Think about it, the U-joint at the drive shaft axle yoke is one of the best places for the weak link in the drive chain. As it very easy to put a new $20 U-Joint and U-bolts back on, now if you have to find a way to remove a sheered off bolt or two . . .

Here's me along side the Hiway 4 between Deer Valley and SlickRock, Very happy to be changing a U-joint and not an axle shaft, gears or a TC.

 

[Letterman]

Rubicon, Big Sluice turn me in '05, watch your fingers:

Big Dog on Walker Hill June '06:

Will "the Kid" just before the old turn off to Spider lake June '07:

Was anyone here for the Phils Rubicon Run in June of '06?

He has the shirt and the sticker, but Soup ate his drive shaft:

 

[rocknxj]

Man, that's rough.

I've got the front half of the lift installed today and it is looking sweet. Tomorrow I will torque and lube the front half, then move to the rear. Should be done in a few hours.

I'll post pics to brag, I mean show off, I mean gloat, I mean...I should wait and see if I screwed up anything before I start boasting, eh?

 

[Letterman]

No please boast away!!! It is so much more fun for us if you have to eat a little crow!





Only kidding!
I am sure it will work out great, and if not you just need to keep at it till you get it right.

 

[srmitchell]

Lets see it!

 

[rocknxj]

I'm beat. Got everything together and torqued and I will lube up the hundred or so zerks before driving it to the alignment shop tomorrow. That beast is sitting in my garage and it is looking sweet.

The instruction manual claims one can install this lift in 8 hours. Riiiight. Even if I did another one tomorrow it would take me no less than 20 hours. Too damn many parts. I need a beer.

Pictures will be posted tomorrow with a bit of commentary.