• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Questions about Ford 8.8 Diff Swap

S

seanof30306@yahoo.

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tulsa, Ok
OK, so my rearend is howling like a demon. Been doing it since I bought it new in 1996, but it's been getting a lot worse over the past couple of years.

The clutches in the posi have been groaning for the past 70,000 miles, no matter how much additive I put in it.

I'm getting ready to swap out the leaf springs when I lift it, so it just makes sense to address the rear diff now. I want to upgrade to rear disc brakes, too, so now's the time.

Rather than put money into a Dana 35, I looked around at upgraded diffs. I think I've found a pretty good solution:

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-4764922-ford-8-8-rear-axle-bolt-in-xj-assembly.html

These guys take junkyard 8.8" Explorer diffs and set them up to be bolt-ins for XJs (among others). There are a lot of options. I specced mine out at $1,415, with free shipping on orders of over $500, but a $200 "handling fee" (That's a lot of handling!). Total cost to me: $1615, with a 5 year warranty.

That's ready to bolt-in, with:

Welded axle tubes
Factory 3:55 gears (new gears are $250 more)
All new bearings and seals
Rebuilt factory limited slip ($300 more for a new Detroit True Trac)
factory axles (new axles are $200 more)
11" Explorer brakes with new calipers, pads, e-brake shoes and rotors.
Correct ebrake cables
Set up for ABS

I don't do heavy off-roading. The reason I ordered the Up Country package when I bought my Jeep was because the LSD made it so good in snow and blizzards. I think I can do fine on the $1415 version.

A couple of questions.

1. I saw the guys on Truck U do an 8.8 upgrade on a TJ awhile back. They said the 8.8 was 2" narrower than the TJ and XJ diffs. The guy at East Coast Gear says it's 2" narrower on a TJ, but only 3/4" narrower on an XJ. Who is correct?

2. Would it still use the jeep ABS sensor, or would I switch over to the Explorer sensor?
 
Why not just pull an 8.8 from a junkyard Explorer with LSD for a couple hundred, pay someone another hundy to do the perches (unless you can weld), get a couple spacers, and toss some new pads and rotors on it and be done with it got $400-$450.
 
I have a 8.8 on mine and I would say its about 2" shorter. You can easily find your own and get it "drop in" ready for a lot less than what they would charge. IMHO that 8.8 would be a little overkill for what you are wanting to accomplish. Bang for buck what Polar said would probably be the best route.
 
As far as getting any diff "drop-in ready" on my own; that's far beyond my skillset.

Years ago, I had a guy set up a diff for me on my Firebird. It's noisy, and I'm still chasing the vibration.

If I'm going into a diff, I'm going to get a shop to do it that specialize in diffs, and more importantly, offers a warranty. The labor for that isn't cheap, and brings me pretty close in price to what these guys are doing.
 
Since you are still having trouble finding an 8.25 look for an 8.8 with LSD and 3.55 gearing. That way you don't need to go into the diff at all. Just hire someone to knock off the mounts and put XJ mounts on it. I think lots of us just look at paying 3-4 times more for a complete axle as a waste of money, but if you have it and want to spend it, go for it. Have you spec'd out their 44's yet? That gets rid of your c-clip problem. Not a big deal since you probably won't break one with how you wheel but if you ever want to pull the shaft for any reason, at least you don't need to open the diff, pull the center pin and drop the c-clips like you will in an 8.25 or 8.8.
 
seanof30306@yahoo. said:
Total cost to me: $1615, with a 5 year warranty.

That's ready to bolt-in, with:

Welded axle tubes
Factory 3:55 gears (new gears are $250 more)
All new bearings and seals
Rebuilt factory limited slip ($300 more for a new Detroit True Trac)
factory axles (new axles are $200 more)
11" Explorer brakes with new calipers, pads, e-brake shoes and rotors.
Correct ebrake cables
Set up for ABS
Click to expand...

DAYUM!

I'm in the wrong business. I just pulled a 4.10, Disc'd, Limited Slip 8.8 for $130.XX out the door from a junkyard weekend before last. New perches are ~$40, and new shock mounts about the same. The rest of that is maybe a couple hundred in parts. So MAYBE $500 in axle...for $1615...ouch!
 
freerider15 said:
DAYUM!

I'm in the wrong business. I just pulled a 4.10, Disc'd, Limited Slip 8.8 for $130.XX out the door from a junkyard weekend before last. New perches are ~$40, and new shock mounts about the same. The rest of that is maybe a couple hundred in parts. So MAYBE $500 in axle...for $1615...ouch!
Click to expand...

But they welded the tubes :firedevil
 
Just thought id add this few bits about swapping an 8.8.

Its 1 1/2" narrower. 3/4" per side.
The lsd while seeming like a great "upgrade" at first, will get you later if you decide to go to a lunchbox locker. Its roughly $450 for the model compatable vs about 250$ for the open carrier model. And lets face it. Factory lsds suck offroad. Even after i packed mine extra tight with the cobra pack clutches it would do nothing in the rocks. Acted like it was open.
 
GordoSmasho said:
Just thought id add this few bits about swapping an 8.8.

Its 1 1/2" narrower. 3/4" per side.
The lsd while seeming like a great "upgrade" at first, will get you later if you decide to go to a lunchbox locker. Its roughly $450 for the model compatable vs about 250$ for the open carrier model. And lets face it. Factory lsds suck offroad. Even after i packed mine extra tight with the cobra pack clutches it would do nothing in the rocks. Acted like it was open.
Click to expand...

For what I'm doing, LSD is perfect, and a locker would be a disaster.
 
I run a 8.8, the difference in width is nothing to really worry about. I used to run spacers but last time I did brakes on I never reinstalled them.
 
seanof30306@yahoo. said:
For what I'm doing, LSD is perfect, and a locker would be a disaster.
Click to expand...



All im saying is factory lsd are rated for stock sized tires. If you want an lsd. Buy an aftermarket on. Like a trutrac. They are a great lsd and no modifier is required because its gear driven.

Even when i had mine with 31s, i saw no real difference. Even in loose dirt.
 
East coast is insanely overpriced

Print that out, take it to a local shop and ask them if they can beat it

Might at least save you the handling charge
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
East coast is insanely overpriced

Print that out, take it to a local shop and ask them if they can beat it

Might at least save you the handling charge
Click to expand...


I would go on google type in parts locator it will come up as the locator magazine click on it then click the toolbar on the top left and click parts search they can find you parts cheap from responsible yards with good reputation
 
ADK Juggalo said:
I would go on google type in parts locator it will come up as the locator magazine click on it then click the toolbar on the top left and click parts search they can find you parts cheap from responsible yards with good reputation
Click to expand...

I would too, but he doesn't seem to want to go that route.

Hell I've got an 8.8 with 4.56's and an arb sitting in my garage that I got for well under what he's looking to pay for one with 3.55s and an lsd
 
GordoSmasho said:
Just thought id add this few bits about swapping an 8.8.

Its 1 1/2" narrower. 3/4" per side.
The lsd while seeming like a great "upgrade" at first, will get you later if you decide to go to a lunchbox locker. Its roughly $450 for the model compatable vs about 250$ for the open carrier model. And lets face it. Factory lsds suck offroad. Even after i packed mine extra tight with the cobra pack clutches it would do nothing in the rocks. Acted like it was open.
Click to expand...

Eaton doesn't list a Detroit TrueTrac for the 8.25, as far as I can see. I like that unit ... planning on putting one in my Firebird.

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Questions about aw4 to ax15(nv3550) swap
Replies
2
Views
255
ljobbins
L
Makima_xj
98 XJ motor swap low power
Replies
19
Views
510
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
D
Welding rear axle - Potential damage question
Replies
8
Views
397
Evan03
E
P
Some basic mod questions
Replies
14
Views
649
Goose_XJ88
Goose_XJ88
B
Checking backlash on newly acquired xj
Replies
9
Views
152
Evan03
E
Back
Top