asp
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westport, MA
I'm tempted to post a pair of NSFW pictures.Don't even get me started on cold lap and hot laps.
I'm tempted to post a pair of NSFW pictures.Don't even get me started on cold lap and hot laps.
If I have a LP front axle and a HP rear axle, should I spend the first 20 minutes driving in Reverse to maximize my break-in efforts?
It's not about getting it up to any particular temperature. It's about keeping it from getting above a certain temp (do not know the magic number, it probably depends on what kind of oil is used and a number of other factors). As was stated before, the object is to prevent the breakdown of the gear oil mas well as overheating the ring and pinion and changing the heat treatment of the metal. All of is this is just precautionary. It may very well not be an issue if you don't do a break in but if you don't it could very well be. It's about better safe than sorry.I spent 20 minutes stuck in traffic today going a mile and a half.
Also spent 20 minutes completing a lap at the woods race I was in this weekend, which I'm sure was far more abusive.
So I'm assuming that's 20 minutes of continuous somewhat-gentle, constant-speed driving. There are zero roads around here that I can accomplish that on and I'm certainly not trailering it to someplace that I can.
I would also say that starting in the dead of winter vs. the heat of summer plays a part, the gears will definitely take longer to heat up if the gear oil's sittin at 0 degrees.
What does getting the gears to an arbitrary (and unknown) temperature have to do with the lapping process? Is there a critical temperature where lapping becomes more effective?
:dunce:
500 miles of holding back your right foot, change the oil, down the road.
No, see ^^^What happens if the gears get too hot while they are lapping in? Will the gears lap to the point where the backlash opens up out of spec?
Actually, the only way the heat treatment will be effected is if the diff gets too hot.You just have to drive it moderately for a bit then let cool a couple times, this hardens the teeth face, essentially like heat treating it.
If you put new gears in and drive around in 2WD the front gears will lap in over a much longer period of time. The resistance of the front driveline puts a very light load on the gears while driving but it is on the coast side of the gear teeth. Gears don't tend to get hot under slow 4 wheeling conditions so a trailered wheeling rig would not need a break in unless it is to be used at high speed like jeepspeed conditions.What about thus guys. Being 4 wd how does the front gears lap? I'm guessing since the front is always spinning its still in contact, right?
PM them!I'm tempted to post a pair of NSFW pictures.
If you choose this method you have to get a front mounted hitch and tow a heavy load in front of you to apply the correct force to the gears during break in and stop to cool every 18 minutes 20 seconds.If I have a LP front axle and a HP rear axle, should I spend the first 20 minutes driving in Reverse to maximize my break-in efforts?
This method is only recommended for the non c-clip version of the D35 axleI broke my gears in with a nice smokey burnout followed by lots of full throttle...
This method is only recommended for the non c-clip version of the D35 axle
loads and heat levels from rigs that are 2-3 times the weight and at the same time have about 4 times the Torque fed to them.
I'm pretty sure Chris (vetteboys) rig weighs as much as a fullsize and puts down way more torque.
:laugh:
I'm pretty sure Chris (vetteboys) rig weighs as much as a fullsize and puts down way more torque.
:laugh:
new diesels are mostly all around or over 6000 lbs curb weight and make on the order of 750 Ft.lbs. If there is a jeep on here weighing 6000 lbs and putting over 600 ft lbs to the wheels, I will both be very impressed by their engine build and confused on why they used 2" solid bar to build their cage